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Snake pit - rhino built


Rhino13

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More power! The z24 is definitely torquey and fun to drive, but I have plans for the future that I'd like more power for. I'm planning to drive it lowered for a bit, then when it needs a rebuild I'm going to raise it back up and put a small cab over camper on it.

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The orifice in the fuel line is actually there to help build fuel pressure, it doesn't really regulate it. You decide... The pump has a built in pressure setting of something like 2.8-3.4 PSI and tries to maintain this by slowly chugging away. If there was no orifice the fuel would simply take the easiest path and return to the tank. No pressure would build and the pump would chatter like hell. The orifice is just a pin hole and pressure builds on the pump side and is available for the carb at what ever the pump pressure is.

 

The return line allow fresh cool fuel to constantly be circulating pats the entrance to the carb and this is its purpose. An added benifite is the fuel is also constantly filtered over and over so the tank stays cleaner.

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As in your analogy of the orifice Mike it does help to regulate pressures in the size of the orifice changes the amount of fuel pressure built up.

 

"If there was no orifice the fuel would simply take the easiest path and return to the tank. No pressure would build and the pump would chatter like hell. The orifice is just a pin hole and pressure builds on the pump side and is available for the carb at what ever the pump pressure is."

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Well Charlie without the hole the pump would still be internally regulated to 2.7 to 3.4 PSI. With the hole, the pressure would still be 2.7 to 3.4 but the pump would have to pump slightly faster to replace the extra losses. With a larger hole even faster. At some point the hole would be large enough that the regulated pressure could not be maintained because the pump could not pump above it's maximum speed and the fuel line pressure would drop.

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  • 1 month later...

I've been driving the truck everyday and its been driving great. It's running a little rich and has started to make a little more noise on the front of the motor, which I have always believed to be the timing tensioner having an issue. But yesterday I went to drive and it started getting really warm, I ran with the heater on and got it to come back down and sit where it usually is, and after a while of driving I could turn the heater off and it would be fine. I tested this twice so as far as I can tell it will be fine as long as I run with the heat on a bit.

So what I'm wondering is could that noise I've always heard be my water pump going out and since it's gotten a little louder it's gotten worse and caused it to start getting warm? My other thought is maybe it's my thermostat is gunked up and making it look like it's overheating and that noise is the timing tensioner getting worse. It didn't get all the way up to the H, but when it got hot it stayed up there while idling, then would come slightly down while driving, then back to normal with heater.

 

I've been pushing it a bit so my first thought was that I blew the head gasket, but the coolant is full and clean, and the oil is at the same level it was when I changed it 2 months ago and still looks like new surprisingly.

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Well I went and drove it and when I started it there was some light white smoke, and some water coming out of the exhaust but decided to warm it up to see if anything changed. Once it was warm there was no smoke but still a little water coming out. The oil still looks fine, but once it cooled back down there was way less water in it. Looks like the head gasket went :( I need to get my hands on this new motor quick!

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List white smoke is likely just condensation.. I wouldn't be too concerned. If it smells sweet, like coolant then you should worry.

 

The noise you have is definitely timing chain related. Guides are likely toast on that one. 

 

Regarding your overheating issue... is the coolant low at all?

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List white smoke is likely just condensation.. I wouldn't be too concerned. If it smells sweet, like coolant then you should worry.

 

The noise you have is definitely timing chain related. Guides are likely toast on that one.

 

Regarding your overheating issue... is the coolant low at all?

It smelled a little different than my normal exhaust, and felt slightly like coolant when I got it on my hand but did just look like water. It did keep dripping once it was warmed up also. The coolant wasn't low until after I let it cool down this morning when I got it up to full temp. That'd be great if it didn't blow, I'd rather not replace the head gasket right before I swap in a new motor.

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I have seen a lot of cars that pour water out the exhaust when they are first started up. If it continues to dribble water after it is up the normal temp, I would say look into the head gasket a little more.

If you take the radiator cap off and start the truck does it push coolant out the top? Like it is under pressure?

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If your not slowly losing coolant out of your radiator mysteriously.. and it's not gushing out of the cap or building lots of pressure and filling your overflow tank.. then youve got nothing to worry about but that chain noise.

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Well I located the issue. The radiator was full when I checked it two nights ago, then the next morning I started and ran the truck for 10 minutes until it started going above normal temp, then when it cooled there was quite a bit missing. I topped it off and didn't see any problems other than it still went past normal temp. So this morning I took it to work, it of course got really hot so I popped the hood when I got here and the radiator cap was bubbling and hissing, the overflow was pouring all over the ground, and the bottom passenger side of the radiator was all wet and leaks pretty good under pressure... Fuckin radiator. I need to source a new one, which is unfortunate because this one is new by the previous owner, but it's the kind with plastic tanks so I'll be glad to get a stock or aluminum.

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So in that situation, either the cap if failing, or your HG is blown causing exhaust to be pushed through to the cooling system. To confirm if that's true.. you can do a few things.

 

1. Fill the radiator and leave the cap off. Let the engine get to operating temp and watch for bubbles.

 

2. There is a block testing tool you can buy that samples the coolant and checks for hydrocarbons (HC). Or exhaust being present in coolant which there should be none.

 

 

4. Use a coolant system pressure tester to pressurize the coolant system to 15psi, Watch if it leaks down... if it does, do you see bubbles in the radiator? Do your cylinders fill with water?

 

5. Use emmisions tester to sniff for HC's present in the coolant system.

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I'm pretty certain the o ring in the cap is toast, it definitely isn't sealing when at full pressure. Once the truck warmed up it didn't smoke or have water coming out, last time I warmed it up it did have a little water still coming out, BUT I warmed it up by letting it idle then, where as today I drove it to warm it up. I also noticed a little stick poking through the radiator in that bottom corner, so I'm pretty certain there's a pin hole down there. I was pretty confused as to why the reservoir overflowed so much after turning it off, but the coolant looked brand new still, so that makes me think there's no HC in it. I will pull my plugs tonight or tomorrow and see if there's any sign of water in any of the cylinders. Part of me was hoping it was the engine and not the radiator, since I'm getting a new motor, but if I'm replacing the radiator I'll most likely upgrade it so I don't have to replace another used one down the road.

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I messed around with it a little more and there's no water in the cylinders, I didn't get a block tester or coolant tester but I ran it without the cap on and there were no bubbles. The caps lower gasket has a chunk missing and is all dry rotted so that's definitely part of the issue. It never steams or sprays, but the bottom passenger side of the radiator slowly gets wet, so I'm assuming there's a pin hole somewhere in the fins. I also noticed my exhaust manifold has a good size crack right next to the O2 sensor. Hopefully I'll get this new to me engine soon and I can address any issues with it while it's out of the truck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I'm getting the ka either tomorrow or Wednesday depending on when my buddy gets out of work!

 

I need to do a few things to the truck before the new motor goes in though. It needs a clutch, it's not going out but it will slip a tiny bit when running it hard, so what is a good step up from a stocker clutch?

The truck shakes in 3rd gear at the middle of its range, but is smooth if I speed up quick. I'm thinking it's a u joint going out, but I'd really like to get a one piece driveline to get rid of the carrier. What else could be causing a shake in 3rd?

Can I use napZ motor mounts or should I get hardbody ka mounts?

Is there any modification/changes to be made before bolting up the 720 trans to the ka?

I'm planning to carb it so I'm getting a matchbox with the pedestal, and the oil drive to put in the ka pump. I'm also getting a carb adapter made for a Weber and upgrading the 32/36 to a 38. Is there anything else I need to know or should be aware of?

The motor is used so I'm going to put fresh gaskets in it and run it until it needs rebuilt, but compression was checked and they're all the same.

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Clutch upgrade - white bunny clutch.

 

Engine mounts - Get the metal that goes to the engine. Use the rubber that goes to the chassis.

 

Ka and Z trans are fully interchangeable. No mods necessary.

 

It has been mentioned that truck intake runners flow uphill and this could cause fuel pooling issues when used with a carb. I haven't ever checked this, but it's something to consider.

 

Otherwise, please document the crap out of this. The ka question has come up with some frequency here lately and it would be awesome to have something concrete to point to.

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