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KA Engine Swap Fuel Pump Wiring


Cruzn620

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Good News!

 

For those unfamiliar with my project, I took a KA24-E and put it in my 620...which shouldn't be a big deal, but I used ALL of the original Nissan wiring...because I plucked everything from a running/driving truck I owned and my Datsun wiring was butchered to the point of no return to fix it. ANYWAY...today I had good weather and I pulled the ignition switch out of the nissan, secured a few grounds, charged my battery...and...it turned over!

 

I still don't have the aftermarket external fuel pump wired in. I just poured some gas in the throttle body and let it run until it burned everything up. I can't find the wiring diagram for the Nissan fuel pump ANYWHERE. I even downloaded about 60 pages and printed it out hoping I could find it, and I found nothing. I'm using a Walbro pump, it just needs a power and a ground, and since I'm using the stock Nissan harness, which has the relay built in, if I just knew which color wires were power and which was ground on that harness, I should just be able to put ring terminals on those and be good to go correct?

 

I think there are 4 wires going to the connector that plugged into the "in tank" fuel pump on the nissan. I'm guessing 2 of those were for fuel level or a low fuel pressure warning code. Can anybody help out here? If I'm not able to use the stock Nissan harness, I just need a good ground to the frame and then where is the best place to wire into to get a key'd on/off. I don't want to run an extra fuel pump switch. Wire guage recommendations if I have to wire it in myself? THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!

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Crap...now I'm embarrassed. I looked on every site but this one. I do still have questions though. For instance, in the picture, it says the color of positive to the Fuel pump is whatever is left EXCEPT black/pink or black/yellow. So I can put a ring terminal on that and hook it to the Walbro + side and then run a ground from the Walbro to the frame? Do I need to land the other two wires to anything? That seems awful simple! 

 

Keep in mind I'm using the ENTIRE stock Nissan Harness, nothing from the Datsun at all. I'm guessing the dashed box represents the factory ECU? I'm a little confused on what the Can/Am Box is...unless that's the wiring block they were custom building. Just need a little help understanding, that's all. THANKS!

 

 

KAFuelPumpWiring.jpg

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If you follow the diagram upstream, you'll find that the Fuel Pump Positive(whatever color wire you want) and Air Regulator(B/Y wire) are switched power. They are switched by a relay that is activated by the signal from the ECU(B/P wire, pin 106 on the ECU plug). Because the power is switched, it can be assumed that the ground is permanent. I would have no hesitation in grounding the fuel pump to the frame, as long as it is a good ground.

 

The Can/Am box is simply a relay box made by a member of the forum for this specific purpose. It is not necessary, but is included in this diagram(the creator of the Can/Am box is also responsible for the diagram).

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I posted this thread in the wrong spot in the first place...Mike keeps locking it when I post it in electrical...so engine people...well...here's what I've got.

 

With the help of the handy dandy multimeter, I found that the White/Purple wire out of the stock Nissan KA24E was switched 12v power. When the key was flipped it had 12v on it for about 3 seconds and then the relay flipped and it had no power. I was assuming this was to prime the fuel pump and then the ECU was telling it to shut off so that it didn't dead head.

 

FuelPumpWiring.jpg

 

I grounded my Walbro to the frame using 10 gauge wire, ran the white/purple wire to the positive terminal on the fuel pump, hit the key, BOOM...pump ran and then "timed out". I would have thought with empty fuel lines it would have primed longer, but it didn't. I hit the key again to start it, no fuel pump. I also didn't hear the fuel pump relay clicking any more. Was it just happy coincidence that my fuel pump relay went bad RIGHT THEN when I was testing things?

 

Is my theory correct about the voltage dropping off that wire?

Should I try to test the pump/system with a constant 12v source just to see if the motor will get fuel?

 

The motor does run...I splashed fuel into the throttle body and it ran correctly for about 45 seconds...which was music to my ears. I also thought about my fuel filter. I ran one between the pump and tank of course, but to have the correct fittings, I ran it "backwards" to the way it said to mount it. From simply blowing on it from either end, it seemed to work the same either way, but perhaps that caused an issue?

 

There are 4 other wires on that harness that didn't register any voltage when the key was hit, could those have something to do with it? THANK GUYS!! 

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