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ZDDP Addative for Flat Tappet Engines


difrangia

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I'm confused about the ZDDP and catalysts claims. Catalysts have been in place since the 70's. So if the ZDDP was banned for zinc and phosporus being bad for catalytic converters, how many of our vehicles actually NEED it. Also diesel oil will be changing soon if not already because all newer diesel engines are required to use catalysts.

 

:confused:

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I thought this thread would be done by now.

If your engine is in good shape, it does not burn enough oil to poison the catalytic converter.  The problem occurs when the engine is worn out, and burns excessive oil.  Then there is an issue.

The main wear area for an older engine, that needs the ZDDP is the interface between the camshaft, and the lifters.  A lot of modern engines use a roller bearing in this area, and there is no longer the wiping contact between two metal surfaces, that needs the ZDDP additive.

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I thought this thread would be done by now.

If your engine is in good shape, it does not burn enough oil to poison the catalytic converter.  The problem occurs when the engine is worn out, and burns excessive oil.  Then there is an issue.

The main wear area for an older engine, that needs the ZDDP is the interface between the camshaft, and the lifters.  A lot of modern engines use a roller bearing in this area, and there is no longer the wiping contact between two metal surfaces, that needs the ZDDP additive.

The OP is building a new engine so it's a vitally important question.

 

I like it when a thread keeps going. It's a sign that we are interested in it.

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The OP is building a new engine so it's a vitally important question.

 

 

 

I don't see anywhere where he said he building a new engine. I agree it won't hurt to use it as a good cam lube when rebuilding but just as important to run a good oil with some reasonable level of ZDDP for the long haul too.

 

 

 

I've always used it on rebuilds and would like to know what the experts here can add. Thanks.

 

Steve

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I am indeed rebuilding the original E1 for the 'Mighty Mouse' 320. In my opinion the valves had been done at least once over the years but the pan had not been off for half a century. I did need to source another crankshaft (thanks again, Ted). Ended up using new Japanese .060 OS pistons. Had cam reground with .035 added lift and refaced lifters. New valves and guides. I'm currently setting the graphite rope 'dog turd' rear seal in, so crank and pistons will soon be in place. So basically it will be a new engine.

 

Thanks for all the input on this addative issue, guys. It helps me a lot on what course I'll take.

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DanielC, on 20 Jan 2015 - 09:53 AM, said:snapback.png

"

Four or five quarts of oil in a gallon jug

Ha!

 

Is this up for debate?"

 

Depending on the brand, some of the "gallon" oil that I buy comes in a four (US) quart container, sometimes the container holds five US quarts.  When I put dirty oil into the container for recycling, I usually fill it more than it was with new oil.

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Our gallon is bigger than yours. 4.546 liters to your 3.785 or 20% larger. If I get 33 MPG here that's the same as 27 in the US 

 

HUH? MPG? I figured your measurement would be KPG for kilometers per gallon (and the rest of the metric world). They use MILES per gallon up there?  Really?

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HUH? MPG? I figured your measurement would be KPG for kilometers per gallon (and the rest of the metric world). They use MILES per gallon up there?  Really?

 

Hell no! I never got used to kph and work everything into MPG.

 

they sell 1 gallon and 5 quart jugs they are two different measurements of oil 

if you buy a gallon jug of oil by us standards it is 4 Quarts 

 

Not exactly but close. A US qt. is 0.946 liters so a US gallon is 3.78 liters close to a 1/4 of a US qt. short.

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