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1979 210/b310 Brake Upgrade-- Booster/MC/Pedals/Lines


f1ndM3aTaco

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I'm thinking about doing a full brake system upgrade, now that I finally have a little extra cash on hand. I just finally found a junkyard nearby that has a few 280zx's and they will take out both front strut/brake assemblies for $100. What I want to start thinking about in the meantime (while I wait for the parts to be pulled and the guaranteed amount of time that it's going to take for me to sand them down, paint them, and swap out the struts and put on coilovers) is swapping out some other older shit for some newer shit.

 

I know I'm going to have to change the brake master cylinder soon, seeing that it's practically shot the shit. I want to stick with the 15/16 bore and saw that wilwood offers a tandem master cylinder. Here's a link and a picture cause we all like pictures and...oics

 

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderKits.aspx?group=Aluminum%20Tandem%20M/C%20Kit%20with%20Bracket%20and%20Valve

 

[/url]">http://261-13269-BK-lg_zpse5299a04.jpg

 

Will this badboy be good to fit on the ride? I know 15/16 is the same bore for a 280zx but not sure if it will fit on the stock 210 booster. Can I swap in the 280zx booster or can I just keep the 210 booster?

 

So after looking more on the wilwood site, I started thinking that it might just be easier to keep everything wilwood seeing as it might be easiest if the calipers are going to be swapped to wilwood big brakes and the master cylinder would be wilwood, so why not get some wilwood pedals too?

 

I mean look at these things!

 

http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalList.aspx

 

[/url]">http://http://s44.photobucket.com/user/f1ndM3aTaco/media/340-11295-lg_zps36160931.jpg.html'>340-11295-lg_zps36160931.jpg

 

long first post, i know, so i guess what im asking is if this would work? anyone thought about doing this before?

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I am putting the Tilton pedals (72-601) in my roadster, with 2 compact (75 series) MC for brakes, one for clutch. The roadster has a poor pedal ratio, single circuit (67), and a weak firewall, so the effort of planning, replacing a chunk of the firewall, and welding a little square tube frame to support the pedals was worth it to me. Not sure how many of those reasons apply to your case, but bear in mind it takes some careful planning, a fair bit of effort and $$ (I'll get some pics up in a few days). 

 

Michael

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So after looking more on the wilwood site, I started thinking that it might just be easier to keep everything wilwood seeing as it might be easiest if the calipers are going to be swapped to wilwood big brakes and the master cylinder would be wilwood, so why not get some wilwood pedals too?

 

 

 

You're re-inventing the wheel here. The zx master will do the same job and the pedals are there already. Those pedals are not going to 'bolt on'. Keep this simple. '79-'81 15/16" zx master ('82-'83 masters have horizontal mount bolts and won't 'bolt on') If you keep your rear drums replace the rear zx residual valve with the drum brake rear valve from you stock master. Front rear bias should be fine and especially fine if the car is lowered and the springs stiffer, BUT if the rears lock too soon add a willwood proportioning valve in line and dial them back. Done.

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I am putting the Tilton pedals (72-601) in my roadster, with 2 compact (75 series) MC for brakes, one for clutch. The roadster has a poor pedal ratio, single circuit (67), and a weak firewall, so the effort of planning, replacing a chunk of the firewall, and welding a little square tube frame to support the pedals was worth it to me. Not sure how many of those reasons apply to your case, but bear in mind it takes some careful planning, a fair bit of effort and $$ (I'll get some pics up in a few days). 

 

Michael

Dude put up some pics soon man I want to see what it looks like!

 

You're re-inventing the wheel here. The zx master will do the same job and the pedals are there already. Those pedals are not going to 'bolt on'. Keep this simple. '79-'81 15/16" zx master ('82-'83 masters have horizontal mount bolts and won't 'bolt on') If you keep your rear drums replace the rear zx residual valve with the drum brake rear valve from you stock master. Front rear bias should be fine and especially fine if the car is lowered and the springs stiffer, BUT if the rears lock too soon add a willwood proportioning valve in line and dial them back. Done.

datzenmike thanks for the info, as always. I saw in your other posts about what you mention of the residual valve needing to be swapped if you want to keep drum brakes. And for the reinventing the wheel... I like a good challenge! I'm not going to be keeping the rear drum brakes for long, its hard finding a 82-83 200sx around here but I definitely want some disk brakes in the back too, drum brakes just aren't doing it for me.

 

As for lowering the car, I know that there are great benefits to it, but I have to keep in mind that I live in Maine and this is my daily driver. I like driving, and I drive a lot. And I want this car to be able to handle some bumps and not bottom out on every pothole. I love the lowered look and all, but it just doesn't seem practical to me or my kind of driving at all, I like dirt roads. Once I get the 280zx struts and assemblies cleaned up and change out the inserts for some illuminas, i know that that already lowers the ride height a good deal, but I want to keep the ride height pretty much where it already is.

 

So here comes my stupidity, could someone explain the difference between horizontal and vertical mounts for the MC.

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