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Clutch replacement?!


Thisolddatsun

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Also spent like 10/20 minutes before work at the parts store picking some brains. Haha a 1987 pathfinder clutch kit comes with the collar/throwout bearing together. I know its to big from experience because the one he pulled out was the one i exchanged. Still has my grease prints on it haha. Would that collar work? The guy said the dimensions are the same as one for my 81. But he also found one thats just the collar plus bearing for like 79 bucks I think

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Just because the clutch master is new, and the slave is new, doesn't mean there is not a problem, did you check the fluid level in the clutch master?

Is the slave/slave boot wet with fluid?

It sounds like the master went dry, but a vibration when you push the clutch pedal in is not a good sign.

The part/piece the throwout bearing is pushed onto is the throwout bearing "collar", the little copper/brass piece is the "pilot bushing".

I have a lifetime warr autozone slave in my DD....only 10k miles. If I manipulate the pedal just right the slave will bleed down.....have to totally get off pedal then depress. When I get around 2 it I'll refurbish the original & make autozone give me a new-new one. Like Wayno said.....that vibration is bad news. 10-1 the vibration will get worse...at an exponential rate. If u make it over to Eugene/Spring I have a good used press plate u can have...as long as u pay it forward and help some one else in the future. I think Denmarkboy and I may go to the Datsloco meet 1st fri in Feb. If u can nurse it along till then I'll toss the press-plate in the truck and bring it with me.

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I have a lifetime warr autozone slave in my DD....only 10k miles. If I manipulate the pedal just right the slave will bleed down.....have to totally get off pedal then depress. When I get around 2 it I'll refurbish the original & make autozone give me a new-new one. Like Wayno said.....that vibration is bad news. 10-1 the vibration will get worse...at an exponential rate. If u make it over to Eugene/Spring I have a good used press plate u can have...as long as u pay it forward and help some one else in the future. I think Denmarkboy and I may go to the Datsloco meet 1st fri in Feb. If u can nurse it along till then I'll toss the press-plate in the truck and bring it with me.

I really think its just the fact my tranny had no gear oil cause it started to feel better after I put new fluid in it. The master cylinder might need replacement its from the parts truck that was pretty much rallyied and beat the hell out of. I really appreciate the offer for the PP but I'll pass on it. If I take the tranny off I'd like to do it right and use new parts. Hope to see you at the meet too I'll be there
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My problem with lifetime warranty is this is small consolation when you break down in the ghetto, in the rain miles from home..... and it's the fourth time this has happened. The first tow bill was $80 the cost of a new Nissan master. The Nissan rebuild kit is about $20. So fuck those $9 pieces of Chinese shit.

 

When my slave began leaking, it was about $12 for the seal, piston, rubber boot and the rubber nipple and new bleeder. Still working.

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My problem with lifetime warranty is this is small consolation when you brake down in the ghetto, in the rain miles from home..... and it's the fourth time this has happened. The first tow bill was $80 the cost of a new Nissan master. The Nissan rebuild kit is about $20. So fuck those $9 pieces of Chinese shit.

 

When my slave began leaking, it was about $12 for the seal, piston, rubber boot and the rubber nipple and new bleeder. Still working.

maybe I'll just rebuild one then sounds like more fun. Also the only lifetime warranty item I have is the starter and that's through O'Reillys so hopefully if it ever fails it's in a town with one. If not guess Ill find a hill or some home boiis from the ghetto to help push it haha xD
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If I take the tranny off I'd like to do it right and use new parts.

The world runs on used parts......new is not always better than proven good used. I have had poor results with guaranteed rebuilt starters/alternators. Always replace seals/ soft parts.

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The world runs on used parts......new is not always better than proven good used. I have had poor results with guaranteed rebuilt starters/alternators. Always replace seals/ soft parts.

I try and stay away from remanufactured/rebuilt but sometimes its the best option. And proven good used is sometimes better than new but the lifespan could be longer/shorter depending on how its used. Im not saying I havnt done it. If I have the money I would rather go new but if i need it right now and no cash used and free is always nice. Kinda how my truck got its last motor. Had a new crate engine when I got it and it blew a bearing swapped the motor from my parts truck in and didnt see that it burned oil and when I did it was to late and it sized so I ordered a z20 crate engine and now its at around 4k+ miles. Gotta do the math for the exact number. Probably due for another oil change soon.
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 Probably due for another oil change soon.

I often change the oil around 2000 miles.....oil changes are the cheapest 'engine' insurance out there. If u look under my valve cover it is so clean I could pass it off as never ran/N.O.S. B sure to epoxy a strong magnet to the bottom of ur oilpan. Any ferrous particulates will cling to the spot where magnet is.... u don't want that stuff circulating.

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Epoxy to the drain bung so it can be inspected and cleaned. Get the neodymium magnet from a computer hard drive. Incredibly strong!! do NOT get your finger caught between two of them! 

 

My belief is that if that large, it will sink to the bottom anyway and if fine enough to be swept along, the oil filter will catch it.

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So another random question about clutch/flywheels. If I went out and found a z24 flywheel would it bolt onto the back of my z20 or a z22? Since that is a 240mm PP would my transmission still be fine to use or will I have to find a z24 tranny? The 81-83 datsun clutch kits dont come with the collar/sleeve but the z24 clutch kits do. Thinking it might just be worth it to swap the flywheels. Also would the slave cylinder still work and would the original pushrod work as well as the release fork? Might end up getting a different DD so I can drop the front diff flywheel ect and do the swap maybe do the transmission as well. Still deciding. I also think my adjustable pushrod could have also been the culprit/lead helper in the clutch problem.

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All 6 bolt crank L series and Z series flywheels will swap. I found a 240mm wheel on an L20B once. They are all the same except for the friction surface diameter, PP bolt pattern (200mm, 225mm, 240mm) and their weight.

 

The 240mm will fit anything with 6 bolts.

Flywheel 'size' has nothing whatever to do with the transmissions. Totally separate. 

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All 6 bolt crank L series and Z series flywheels will swap. I found a 240mm wheel on an L20B once. They are all the same except for the friction surface diameter, PP bolt pattern (200mm, 225mm, 240mm) and their weight.

 

The 240mm will fit anything with 6 bolts.

Flywheel 'size' has nothing whatever to do with the transmissions. Totally separate.

okay. I was just wondering if I would have to find a transmission to go with the flywheel. So all I would need is the flywheel+clutch+PP and everything else will swap over? With the exception of my adjustable pushrod?
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I dont know if its any more help but I can park on a hill and push my clutch in and the truck wont roll enless I put it in netrual. Im assuming that means my clutch is not disengaging all the way. But it slips really bad when I put it in gear and let the clutch out with the truck on and when I push the clutch in when its running it disengages atleast it doesnt roll forward when the clutch is down and still in gear.

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All 6 bolt crank L series and Z series flywheels will swap. I found a 240mm wheel on an L20B once. They are all the same except for the friction surface diameter, PP bolt pattern (200mm, 225mm, 240mm) and their weight.

 

The 240mm will fit anything with 6 bolts.

Flywheel 'size' has nothing whatever to do with the transmissions. Totally separate.

From what iv read online about flywheels (heavy/light)

I would want a heaveir flywheel more than a lighter one. I was probably just going to find a stock z24 240mm flywheel. But I still dont understand the difference besides with a lighter one you get your rpms up higher/lower faster and can stall out easier than with the heaveir one. And that the heavier one stores more kenetic engery/torque. I know it depends on your use and heaveir is better for towing/offroad from what iv found online. Really just looking for more info on a nissan specific application and others preferences with each behind a z22/z20.

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