Thisolddatsun Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 So my 1981 720 4x4 blew the throw out bearing/ blew apart the flywheel today. Good news is its not a year old so the local baxters autoparts will swap them out no charge besides to get my throw out bearing pressed but that's just a trip to my uncles house. Anyways iv done it a couple times and its a pain just curious would it be easier if I drop the front differential support? How I did it the last few times was just by pushing/twisting the transmission so I have like 5 or 6 inches of space and twisted and placed the flywheel, clutch plate, and throw out bearing in used the alignment tool all that. Wouldnt have had to move the transmission as far back if the support wasnt in my way. But I am sure someone knows a faster/easier way. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Take out the torsion bars. Easy. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 So my 1981 720 4x4 blew the throw out bearing/ blew apart the flywheel today. and you know this without removing the transmission? 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Throwout bearing is kinda a small fry. Took out the flywheel? 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Pull the engine and transmission as a combo. Separate when out. More room to work, easier to be positive everything's lined up, and you can clean and degrease everything while it's out. There's more room to remove the engine/trans with diff dropped out of the way . 2 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Pull the engine and transmission as a combo. Separate when out. More room to work, easier to be positive everything's lined up, and you can clean and degrease everything while it's out. There's more room to remove the engine/trans with diff dropped out of the way . You miss the point! It's under warranty!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 and you know this without removing the transmission? I'm not 100% sure but my clutch pedal turned into a limp noodle after I downshifted to 2nd and wont disengage at all. Had to speed shift to get the truck home. Id rather not rip the whole motor/transmission out. Its my only vehicle and I only have today to get it fixed Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 It's likely a simple hydraulic failure. Find the clutch master cylinder beside the double reservoir brake master cylinder... is it full of fluid? If empty, fill it up and bleed any air out of the 'bleeder' screw on the slave. If the slave is all wet likely it is leaking and the fluid is gone and the slave needs replacing. If the slave is dry. Have someone work the clutch and watch the push rod between the slave and the clutch arm located on the transmission just to the rear of the starter. It's likely not moving. This is an easy fix by replacement of fluid and bleeding or replacement of parts... but all on the outside of the transmission. I doubt they are covered by your original clutch change warranty. Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Check your clutch slave cylinder, and hydraulic lines to it. A throwout bearing would make quite a bit of noise if it exploded. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Slave cylinder is brand new replaced it with the last clutch because I couldnt get it to disengage even after the new one still didnt disengage so I ended up making an adjustable pushrod. Played with the adjustments this morning and its working now atleast I can shift through my Gears. Still havnt driven it. My bigest problem was I couldn't stop and shift into 1st and start moving again without shutting the truck off. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 When the clutch was replaced, either the old release collar was used or not the one supplied with the clutch. The different length release collars keep the clutch arm geometry and travel in the same position regardless of the pressure plate height differences. You obviously had to make a longer adjustable push rod but this forces the clutch arm to work in a more rearward position than normal. Not the best but will work I guess. Quote Link to comment
arizonajones Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Start with the cheap stuff before you crack open the tranny. Fluid in the master cylinder? Have someone step on the clutch pedal while you watch the slave pushrod. Measure travel and check for leaks. Did you say you made an extra long pushrod for the slave? Also, how much play in the pedal before it engages? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 So when you replaced the clutch, did you use a kit? Did the kit come with a collar/bearing that you used instead of using the collar/bearing that was already in your transmission on the arm? Did you do anything to the flywheel when the clutch was changed? Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Yes I used a kit it had everything for the clutch and a throwout bearing. I had that pressed onto the part that the shift fork attaches to. Also my uncle the old nissan mechanic (also a @sshole) told me to make the push rod. When I first replaced it and got it all back together I couldn't shift into any gears when the clutch was in. Replaced the master cylinder(used) and the slave cylinder (new) bled the clutch and it still wouldnt shift into any gears messed with the clutch adjustment under the dash and still nothin so my uncle said to make the pushrod with a couple bolts and a stud. Worked fine till the other day almost 3 or 4 months later. Now its workingish I speed shift alot but I can put it into 1st gear when im not moving and get going again no problem. The clutch vibrates between pushing it in and letting it out but I can drive. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 When the clutch was replaced, either the old release collar was used or not the one supplied with the clutch. The different length release collars keep the clutch arm geometry and travel in the same position regardless of the pressure plate height differences. You obviously had to make a longer adjustable push rod but this forces the clutch arm to work in a more rearward position than normal. Not the best but will work I guess. I got a throwout bearing? If that's what you mean? Or the little copper piece? Or the piece that the throwout bearing is attached to? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Just because the clutch master is new, and the slave is new, doesn't mean there is not a problem, did you check the fluid level in the clutch master? Is the slave/slave boot wet with fluid? It sounds like the master went dry, but a vibration when you push the clutch pedal in is not a good sign. The part/piece the throwout bearing is pushed onto is the throwout bearing "collar", the little copper/brass piece is the "pilot bushing". 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Throughout bearing and collar separated. This is what Mike is talking about. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Who pressed the throwout bearing onto the collar? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 and was it pressed on backwards. 1 Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Just because the clutch master is new, and the slave is new, doesn't mean there is not a problem, did you check the fluid level in the clutch master? Is the slave/slave boot wet with fluid? It sounds like the master went dry, but a vibration when you push the clutch pedal in is not a good sign. The part/piece the throwout bearing is pushed onto is the throwout bearing "collar", the little copper/brass piece is the "pilot bushing". The local goodyear shop. I did not get a new collar with the kit. The slave cylinder is wet/oily but the master is still full of fluid. Honestly debating if my transmission is low on fluid. Spent some time looking through the Chilton book and for trouble shooting the clutch not disengaging and it says it could be a bad clutch (duh) or low transmission fluid. I havnt put any in it since I got it running and it did leak quite a bit out kf the back where the driveline goes. I know this because pulled the main driveline and as soon as a pulled it out a nice little stream of gear oil landed on my shoulder lovely smell. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Easy to check. Plug is half way up the driver's side. (usually, or if not directly oopposite) you should be able to touch the oil with your finger tip. Full level is right up to the fill hole. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Easy to check. Plug is half way up the driver's side. (usually, or if not directly oopposite) you should be able to touch the oil with your finger tip. Full level is right up to the fill hole. yeah just gotta get buttoned up and go roll in some mud to check it. I despise not having a garage. Make life so much easier. Don't I need a socket wrench to take the plug off? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Usually they are a big square bolt. Soft though, pipe wrenches chew them up. Some are indented and take a 1/2" breaker bar, but push in hard while turning. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Usually they are a big square bolt. Soft though, pipe wrenches chew them up. Some are indented and take a 1/2" breaker bar, but push in hard while turning.Well I checked and I was deffinatly low on gear oil. Had to stick my finger in the hole and wasnt any on it. Took a quick drive to my uncles and pumped some gear oil in I dont know how much I put in maybe a quart or less. Seemed to be full not to sure because I ran out of gear oil. So come next payday I'll buy some gear oil and makesure its full. Maybe just drain it all out and replace all the gear oil. Seems to be shifting alot better. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 IF... it was full. You say the clutch was replaced by a shop? Trans can't be removed without draining it or it will spill out... either way it will need filling after it's put back in. To loose that amount, the back of the transmission would be wet all the way back to the differential. Bet they never gave it a thought and it was dry. I wouldn't go back there again. 1 Quote Link to comment
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