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1972 Datsun 510 4 door.... the endless project.


NickE

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This is the story to my endless project 1972 Datsun 510 4 door. All the work was done by me. Basically a great learning process, and I know I did things wrong, but I can say it was all my fault. :D
First time owning. I bought it for spares for my daily driver 510 and then was going to restore it but never did. These pics are from around 2002-2003
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I ended up selling both my daily and this 510 to someone, and then a few years later (2006) I called them up and bought them both back. They were both worse for wear.

 

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It was an auto, so that obviously had to come out.

 

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So then I started working on the daily, and life got in the way so I put this one on hold. So it wasn't until 2008 I started working on this one again.
I found out the hard way that storing a car outside with no hood hinges installed and just the hoodlatch and duct tape holding it one is bad in the wind.

 

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So it was time to check out the rust.

 

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Fender and sills need work

 

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non-existent sill...

 

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Metal Work
Put the car in the shop with the daily (the daily was too far gone so I ended up scrapping it not long after this).
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inner and outer upper strut supports were gone so I had to fab some up

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Bunch of holes at the rear seams of the trunk

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Bodywork
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I got some fiberglass fenders but the fitment was crap.
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I had to add to the top flange for mounting, the rear of the fender to lengthen it, and I decided to fill in the side marker. I also had to cut the rear support and push the middle of the fender in.
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After talking more breaks... life.... it's always getting in the way... onto spring 2009
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I ended up finding a pair of steel fenders that were never used. Good thing I wasted all that time on the fiberglass ones! :D
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Paint
Remember that life getting in the way issue... well it got in the way again... fast forward to 2011.
At some point in time I had filled the rear side marker holes, and in the spring of 2011 I painted the car.
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I decided to fill the side marker holes on the steel fenders.
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So I had planned on painting the outside of the car again with it at this point. That pesky life thing happened again and the car sat. I decided that it wasn't going to happen, so I'd just put it back together. (now we are up to fall of 2012). Having the car at my dad's farm 1/2 hour away was slowing any work on the car, so I brought it home.

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Paint

Remember that life getting in the way issue... well it got in the way again... fast forward to 2011.

At some point in time I had filled the rear side marker holes, and in the spring of 2011 I painted the car.

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I decided to fill the side marker holes on the steel fenders.

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So I had planned on painting the outside of the car again with it at this point. That pesky life thing happened again and the car sat. I decided that it wasn't going to happen, so I'd just put it back together. (now we are up to fall of 2012). Having the car at my dad's farm 1/2 hour away was slowing any work on the car, so I brought it home.

Would you happen to know the color code, believe it's the same as mine but I can't read it as it's too far gone

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According to the sticker it's 938, but the paint cards I've seen of that color look dark.  

 

I took the gas door into the paint shop (Sherwin Williams) and had them match the inside of it.  It's probably not a perfect match, (in the sun it's very yellow, out of the sun more brown) the number on the can is P2-73325-P1.... I'm not sure if that tells the color.

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Assembly
Got myself a full weather stripping package.
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Started putting together the engine bay.
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Refinished the suspension and brake parts
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Bent up some custom stainless steel fuel lines.
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I was changing from an auto to manual, getting rid of the dual points, and I knew in the future I would be swapping the engine, I decided to rebuild the wiring harness.
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I split the engine harness (left) from the body harness (right)
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I installed the harnesses and plumbed the SS brake lines and clutch line.
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Engine
I shipped the car back to my dad's farm to install the engine. (August 2013)
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Yes, I know, best battery clamp ever!
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I also modified a Civic fart cannon I had to fit...
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yeah, Makes for a quicker thread... I have no patience :D

Interior
I sewed a new headliner and cut new vinyl and installed the interior panels.
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Custom made some carpets.
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S2000 Seats
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Finally together and running in the Fall of 2013.
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Since I live in Canada, I managed to drive the car 3 times before I had to put it away for the winter of 2013-2014.

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Time to modify....
Just because it took forever to get the car together and I had barely driven it doesn't mean it should stay stock...
T3 coilovers, camber plates, and MR2 KYBs.
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Shortened 280zx struts.
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QA1 coilovers
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New wheel studs and nuts so I can run wheel spacers.
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New height for the spring of 2014.
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I'd love to know the trick. I'm planning on running the drums for this year at least.

 

Well, obviously the "right" way is to remove the axle stubs. This is difficult. VERY difficult.   :rofl:

 

What I do is...

 

Get a 5/8" drill bit and some 5/8" rubber plugs

Remove the drums, brake shoes, and hardware

Knock out the stock studs

In line with one of the stock stud holes, drill a hole in the brake backing plate

Push a new stud through the hole you drilled and insert into the hub

Turn the hub 1/4 turn and do the next and so on until all are in

Use the rubber plug to plug up the hole you drilled

Reinstall brake hardware and shoes

 

What I do to insert the studs (since they can't be pressed in with the hubs on the car) is slide an oversize nut over the stud (at least 3-4mm too big in size), then spin on a regular acorn lug nut, and tighten with an impact. This usually sucks them right in straight and true. 

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Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.    I already replaced the fronts, but was holding off on the rears not wanting to take the stubs out again since it's a pain (I had replaced all of the seals, bearings and ball joints on the car when I was working on it, so they were off a couple years ago) .

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So I drove the car a handfull of times and the carb tuning I was strugling with, and the car was slow.... so time to pull the engine. I had a KA24E from a 1989 240sx sitting in storage. Might aswell install it.

Pulled the tank to install a fuel pump, and had my driveshaft shortened.

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Built a trans mount.

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Old Engine out

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Engine in.

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So I got the engine in, started it up and went to move it, and found out the clutch was broken, so no drive.

Replaced the clutch.

 

Drove the car home and the car would not idle. 

When through everything trying to get the car to run. Sometimes it would run on 2 or 3 cylinders. I did a compression check and it seemed ok.

 

I ended up replacing:

Spark plugs,

Wires,

Distributor cap,

Rotor,

MAF,

O2 Sensor,

Coil,

Injectors,

 

I noticed that if I swung the distributor all the way to one end of the travel, it seemed a bit better.... maybe the timing chain is off..

Turns out I had the KA24E timing tensioner issue.... ie. no chain guide chain slapping/eating cover:

 

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So I installed a new timing chain, gears, tensioner and guide.

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Bolted it all back together and still had issues. By the time this past fall came, I still couldn't keep the car running.

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