Jump to content

truck needs to go fast faster


TasoZ24

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I got an mpg increase with my Weber clone.

 

4x4s have the gears you want. With my truck it pulls best at 3-4k.

Yes...with a properly set up 32-36 I average 2-5mpg better than any hitachi. Rebuild kits/parts available 4 the weber @ most parts stores(in-stock) AND much cheaper. Good luck even finding a kit 4 the HITACHI 4 less than $50...will probably have to 'order' it in 4 u.

I miss driving a z powered 720. Both the L20b and  Z22 are rated @ 110hp, but the L20b doesn't 'wake' up till 4000rpms. Torque curve so much better with the Z head motors. My 80' will 'GO' if I twist it but If I had the time I'd retrofit a Z....b-4 I'd consider building a LZ2.3.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

ok got a muffler and 2.25 pipe installed yesterday. new weber 38 going on tomorrow. friend just gave me a turbo kit from an old 240 sx, (later project).going to post pics once I get to a computer. once engines flawless ill get interior done, then worry about curb appeal.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

The conversion kit will be here by friday. going to town tomorrow, is there anything I need to get to complete the install besides silicon?

 

Why on earth would you need silicon for a carb swap??? This isn't a chevy engine for cryin' out loud!!!

 

Maybe get some thread locker instead for the mounting studs so they don't come loose.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

thought silicon maybe for gaskets. turbo is a neat gift that is going to sit for a while while I do research. the intercooler was damaged in the wreck, wont say no to free stuff.

What I do....coat one side with clean grease...the other with permatex #2 non-hardening. Can disassemble later w/o a battle. I use silicone in very few applications....wp gaskets, thermostat housing, exmanifold gaskets, ex pipe flanges. Silicone impossible to remove from the pores of metal once cured...leads 2 hard scraping/damage 2 gasket surfaces.

Link to comment

They are assembled without sealants at the factory. Today many metal parts are closer tolerances and goo can be used to seal them, but back 30+ years ago gaskets were used to seal imperfections and sealers weren't needed. Still aren't. You can use them if you want, but it's like wearing two seat belts, you aren't any safer.

Link to comment

I ALWAYS use a little black RTV on thermostat gaskets and water pump gaskets. Hell, I had a hell of a time trying to get a gasket for my truck's thermostat, so it has no paper gasket, just silicone. I have had some paper gaskets leak on me, and as a mechanic who gets paid flat rate commission by the job, taking too much time or redoing a job for free pisses you off! I have NEVER had RTV fail me there.

 

But fuel and silicone is a big no-no!

Link to comment

Red wire idle cut solenoid. This has to have power to let gas through to the idle circuit. Has 12 volts only when ignition ON. You could just run a jumper from the battery to it, just to see it this fixes the idle problem.

 

Blue wire is power to the electric choke. Has power only when engine running. No power can be alternator not charging.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

The prong is for electronic choke which had blue wire on Hitachi so I used corresponding wire before connector. There is a plug in diesel cutoff so not used at the moment. It ran really good first time was running then went rough and stalled. Had weird base measurement instructions, not much about choke disengagement except warm engine. Could use some tips if any. Reading all I can tonight, hopefully get it going. Damn Valentine's under a hood, wife is PISSED!!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment

welp. new holley fuel pump and regulator. nice clean fuel system with sufficient psi. no luck again today, before getting too frustrated I started tearing down front end to get rid of all the parts stockpiled in the garage. truck should be nice and stable once its finally driving again.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

it only started once today. having a fuel issue. getting fuel past pressure regulator,but not coming to fuel inlet. the two differnt sized metal lines, bigger is input and smaller is return? confused myself there. I have regulator at 4 psi, 7 max, lowest pressure good pump they had and no carters.

in order to set base settings, you disengage choke by holding open butterflies and cycling throttle, screw doesnt touch, then letting butterflies go then cycling again, do I have that right?

then im seating speed screw lighty, then going half turn. both mixture screws at one full turn out.

was starting better yesterday, took off and cleaned adapter, should I make new gaskets? was only installed couple hours, had to tighten allen bolts, couldnt stop thinking they were loose.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.