ohmrchristopher Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 So I upgraded my sealed beam headlights to 9007 outside and H1 inside. They are 5 3/4 lamps with replaceable bulbs, all metal with clear lenses and good cut-offs. VisionX for the outside and Hella for the inside. Naturally these bulbs pull 55W compared to the old 35W? Stock lamps. I know I have to do a relay upgrade to the wiring harness. I have read the forums and just need a warmer day because cold wires are a b*tch. Just want to make sure I am not missing anything and would like to explain my new simptons. 1. Hi-beams will stay ON after I turn them off for 2-5 seconds 2. Headlight fuse blows if I have the truck sitting and running with the lights on for 2-3mins (I understand the headlights AND the battey (Optima Yellow Top) are competing for power from my stock Alt. 3. If my truck stalls, with headlights on, the CHARGE dummy light will stay on even after cranking the engine over again and will gradually get dimmer and dimmer (will even flash with the turn signals) until I am assuming the battery is fully charged? Like I am guessing this is all due to the headlights drawing more current than the stock Alt can handle. My next step is a higher output Alt and a better fuse block etc etc. I am more just ranting and stating my issues. Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Best would b to replace entire headlight harness. They make kits which use factory wiring up to the relays to energize them. Power goes straight from batt to relay to lights, rather than thru switch. Need better alt, altima or frontier one r 70-100 amps. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Yes, twin 37 watt LOW and 50 watt HI beam headlights so any increase in bulb wattage will draw more current through the fuse wires and the headlamp switch. You can run a fused power wire from the battery to a relay and use the stock wires for the trigger to turn the relay on off. Run 12 gauge wire to the new headlights and all the relay wiring and to the battery. Search for this I think Hainz has mentioned this. It well documented. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html STOCK RELAY SETUP Your stock fuse box can overheat and fry the fuse clips if left the way you have it. When this happens the headlights can suddenly shut off while driving. I've had this happen, reach down and push on the fuse to get the lights on. (and burn fingers) A larger fuse will stop blowing but then the wires are carrying more current and can heat up. The red charge lamp is normal. It shows that either the alt is not charging or the battery at very low voltage. Usually once the alt fills it back up slightly the lamp goes out. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Like I said before I've looked up how to upgrade the wires and add relays. I was more concerned with the other simptions. Frontier Alt? I know about the GM Saturn alt is the Frontier a more drop in? I plan to do all this in the spring cause it's warmer and working on cold, old, brittle wires is a PITA. Luckily I don't drive at night often and can make a new harness at work. Thanks for the image Mike. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Oh sorry, forgot to ask in my morning stupor... how long can i keep just replacing fuses? its currently a 15A fuse, would it be that bad if I went up to a 20A? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Yeah that was my morning stupor. Had a coffee on the way. Well the fuse is there to protect the wiring. A 20 amp will pass more current through the wires. Not always, but it can warm them up. I put halogen lamps in my 521 and 620 and went larger fuses. It worked. Make sure the fuse clips are clean and solid. Any corrosion and they will heat up like a toaster. The heat will take the tension out of the clips, they won't hold the fuse tightly and this makes it worse. The heat can also ruin the fuse box...(done this before) Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Previous fuse block had overheated, to the point where the 'L' connector was completely crumbled. I have a new fuse block w new 'L' connectors. I cleaned the contacts and have 'pinched' them inwards. They hold tight, no sloppy fuses. But i get what you mean, the fuse protects the system. putting in a bigger fuse negates the safety of an overload/overdraw/short Thanks for the link, bookmarked! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Buy a H4 harness for the outer lamps. its a 2 headlamp set up. its a 9003 (same as H4) Youll use the stock harness the pass side 3 prone connector will hook up to the new harness with 2 relays. 1 is low beam 2 is Highbeam on the same lamp outer lamp. Your highs can handle already 50watts so no need really to up grade that unless you get a 4 headlamp harness wich will have 3 relays. as for the alternator it don't make a different yet as when you hook upthe harness the extra draw is on the battery as that's where youll hook up the power at the starter lug. when driving using a 35amp ALT at a stop light it will draw lower than 12volts esp if heater and wiper on. but above that it will be OK. but putting a 50 amper in a 620 you need to do a little mods on the alternator mount depending if you have a small hole L16 set up. as most 50ampers are bigger bolts that run thru the ears of the alternator also the 50amper might hit the idler arm and a shorter belt will be needed. I know I have to do a relay upgrade to the wiring harness??????? If you know then do it. don't risk ruining a normal good wire harness cause your lazy. Wait till summer. If you use a H4 harness I bet the light wont stay on as there is Power all the time to the stock harness and if it finds a round it will stay on. The new harness places a ground near the lamp by bolting it to the frame. As some older style H4 lamps the housing was the ground. I haven had this proplem my self But Jeff had this in one 510 he picked up the lights were on all the time and he find they taped the 3 taps to brevent it from grounding out but the tape wore out Your fuse blowing it cause your overloading the stock set up. W H4 harness the fuse will never blow as its just used as a trigger now and that will be barley than a amp as it only needs to trigger the tiny coil in the blk box light relay go back to staock till you get a harness and I bet everything will work fine Quote Link to comment
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