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Alternative Alternator Z24


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Newer vehicles with their increased electrical gadgets and conveniences (like heater seats) tend to have higher output alternators. The EFI requires a steady output even at idle with everything on. I don't know what was available in Aus but our 2002 Altima has a 100 amp output. I replaced the serpentine pulley with a Vee belt and modified the block mount on my 710 to fit it and replace the 50 amp on it. Everything works better now.
 

 

all_4.JPG

 

The bottom two are (left) WD22 Pathfinder and (right) D21 Hardbody.

 

Top ones are (I think) from a Ford Van that used the VG30 Nissan engine.

 

 

Here's the article.. http://nissannut.com/projects/alt_upgrade/

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This is the alternator on a L-18 engine in one of my project 521 trucks.   This alternator came out of a Nissan Pathfinder, Pathfinders are real common in junkyards in the USA.   I do not know what Nissan calls Pathfinders outside of the USA

DragonAltFront_zps7af31dc3.jpg

 

This shows the bottom alternator mount.  The mount is the same width as the space between the mounting ears of the alternator, and more importantly holds the alternator in the correct forward and back position for the V-belt grooves to line up properly.

DragonAltLowMount_zpsa5e0abf7.jpg

 

This is the top mount for the alternator.  The slot for the top mount actually matches the radius the top mount bolt moves in.

DragonAltTopMount2_zps74148769.jpg

 

A better view of the top mount.

DragonAltTopMount_zpsb213c043.jpg

 

This shows the view looking down on the belt, in pretty good alignment.

DragonAltBeltTop_zps63380ee4.jpg

 

I have seen some pretty sketchy, or dodgy attempts at mounting a high output alternator on Datsun engines, usually involving an alternator from another make of vehicle.   Stacks of washers, or spacers to adjust the alternator forward and back to match the pulley groove on the waterpump, and crankshaft.

 

The Pathfinder alternator uses a single M10 bolt, through both ears on the lower alternator mount.  The bracket on the L-18 engine is threaded for M8-1.25 bolts.  I put a bushing into the 10 MM holes on the alternator, to closely fit the M8-1.25 bolts.  If you could accurately drill a 10 MM hole in the L-18 alternator bracket, you could use the 10 MM through bolt mounting bolt from the Pathfinder.

 

I do not know if this alternator can put out 100 amps.   Are you sure you NEED 100 amps, or do you just WANT 100 amps.  100 amps is 1200 Watts, or enough to run 10 100 watt off road lights, or 18 55 watt lamps, with over 16 amps left over to run the engine, and other accessories.

1200 Watts ia about 1.6 horsepower.  That is a lot of power to move using a single V-belt.

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thanks for your input DanielC i may not need 100 amp i will be running about 4 spot lights and also charging a couple deep cycle batteries when towing my caravan few other things, i was really just looking for an abundance of power supply i was also thinking maybe 80 amp would be more than enough.
But a friend suggested i get 100 amp just to be safe for the future.
And they're also called pathfinders here i will definitely look into this.
What amp is your alternator?

i am still yet to go and measure my one but this looks promising i'm not sure if 70amp is what i want though.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-NAVARA-PATHFINDER-ALTERNATOR-New-92-00-2-4LTR-PETROL-/230702599866?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b6f24eba

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That E-bay alternator might be a way to go.  But, I have found original OEM Nissan electric parts to be very high quality.  (Original Equipment Manufacture)  For alternators, that means Hitachi, or sometimes Mitsubishi.   I will go so far as to say you probably could get a higher quality OEM alternator out of a junked Pathfinder, at a junkyard, for less than the E-bay alternator.  The Pathfinder Alternator was $34.47 US dollars

 

Keep in mind a 100 amp alternator will require at least 6 gauge wiring, if wire are short, and probably 4 gauge if any length of run is needed .  That includes the ground return path as well.   You will need to make sure the connection on the output post on the alternator is very good.  100 amps going through a poor connection will create a lot of heat.  That will burn up the wire, melt the insulation, and cause other problems. This is where going to a "too big" wire gauge will help.  A nice thick copper wire can conduct a lot of heat away from the connection.

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thanks for the information really appreciate the help.
I am already in the process of updating most of my wiring so i will be going big for the alternator.
I will check around some wreckers i know some really good ones but man Australia seems so expensive compared to the U.S.
Have a wreckers in town i scraped power steering gear out of, I won't go any less than 80 amps though.

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To make it easier I ran the large charge wire from the alternator to the starter where the positive battery cable was. Crimped and soldered a large (really large) lug on the wire. This was preferable than trying to connect it to the battery post somehow.
 

Here you can see the thickness of the charge wire.

 

100ampAltimaaltswap013Large.jpg

 

100ampAltimaaltswap022Large.jpg

 

 

Armored it with split harness covering after taping up well.  This is just a spare engine I used for the mock up.

100ampAltimaaltswap023Large.jpg

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ahh yes that is much easier than what i was going to do, now i only need to worry about the starter wires, because i am hiding all my wires away i actually have about 4 metres of that thick wire already i remove from my engine bar because the previous owner had 2 battery's setup one on each side of the bay. gonna go hunting at the wreckers this friday.

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To make it easier I ran the large charge wire from the alternator to the starter where the positive battery cable was. Crimped and soldered a large (really large) lug on the wire. This was preferable than trying to connect it to the battery post somehow.

 

Here you can see the thickness of the charge wire.

 

100ampAltimaaltswap013Large.jpg

 

100ampAltimaaltswap022Large.jpg

 

 

Armored it with split harness covering after taping up well.  This is just a spare engine I used for the mock up.

100ampAltimaaltswap023Large.jpg

Would it be necessary to fuse the line from the alternator to the starter back to the battery? Thanks

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You know Darcy, I never thought about it but all stock set ups do. They feed through a fusible link to the battery just in case the wire was ever pinched in a front end accident. That cable would sure get hot. Maybe armor it with garden hose?

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  • 1 month later...

Just an update i used this alternator : Nissan Pulsar N16 1.8L QG18DE 100 AMP

Its a perfect fit, i looked at the Nissan Altima alternator aswell but there was none in Australia and prices were pretty much the same because of shipping costs so i went for the Nissan Pulsar.

 

IMG_20150223_180014_662_1.jpg

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I use a local shop to rebuild all of my starters and alternators. They do such a nice job that I have even brought them an alternator I just bought at NAPA and had them go through it. They always have upgrades available like larger or better bearings and they can modify almost any alternator. I had them build a 170 amp alternator for a customer's 4Runner and they only charged me $125.

 

Boyle Future Tech

Auburn, CA

(530) 888-6290

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