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Mighty Mouse Engine Rebuild & Upgrades


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#41 difrangia

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 05:26 PM

Small update on this thread. I got calls from the cam grinding service and the high temperature coating business today and all my stuff in Oklahoma City is ready for pickup. I'll make a run at the end of the week and have some pics. Should hear something from the machine shop this week on the block and head work. The project is gonna move into a different and better phase soon, I feel.

 

Been cleaning up some of the smaller stuff that is not at the coating service and smearin' a metric ton of elbow grease around in the engine room this past weekend. Here's the product of about an hour and a half of Naptha solvent, Scotchbrite, soapy water, a dull 'Old Timer' pocket knife, and ultra contortional exersize in the left front corner of the engine room:

 

Before

FuelFilterAreaRaw_zps7ed5ee7d.jpg

 

After

FuelFilterAreaCleaned_zps2a1851ce.jpg

 

Another twenty hours of this, touch-up paint, rubbing compound, and wax and it'll be ready for the fresh E1.

 

Steve


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#42 wayno

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 07:09 PM

That cleaned up good. :)


 

 


#43 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 09:12 AM

For a first time engine bay clean, I use Purple Power or Super Clean and a pressure washer. I have had exccellent results with this method, but it has had a learning curve. Either of those chemicals will remove the shine from paint and also can remove bright plating if left on too long or too much concentrate is used. And keep it away from glass.

 

Sounds scary, but the results are amazing.



#44 difrangia

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 06:09 PM

Today was the kind of day a gearhead just loves. Early in the week I learned that the cams and lifters at the grind shop and the box of goodies at the high temperature coating service were ready for pick-up. Scheduled Thursday off work to buzz up to Oklahoma City (120 mi. approx.) and retrieve the hoard. Thursday morining before leaving for OKC I called the machine shop that is doing the block & head work and he was right in the middle of working his magic and figured that he might be done by late afternoon. Retrieved the stuff in OKC and was heading back home. About sixty miles from home I got a call from the machine shop and the block and head were ready so I swung about fourty miles out of the way and snagged them too. The little SUV was filled up behind the back seat.

 

We ended up with .035 more lift at the lobe and he resurfaced a couple of sets of tappets. Actually I took four cams and 18 lifters. Half of the stuff was mine and half was a Datsun 320 friend in Kansas. Posting some eye candy here:

 

RegroundCamampLifters_zps0887a7dd.jpg

 

RegroundCamampLiftersClose-up_zps13015cc

 

HTCoatedPartsExample_zpsce46bfe1.jpg

 

CoatedExhaustManifold1_zpsa08d46e1.jpg

 

CoatedExhaustManifold2_zpse98f96d7.jpg


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#45 difrangia

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 10:43 AM

Getting ready to chase all threads on block and head. Started digging into the hole in right rear of the block that the drain cock screws into for draining the block water jacket. The hole has 3/8 pipe tap and was filled up completely with rust and crud from fifty years of daily life. I took my dull 'Old Timer' knofe and dug most of it out . the hole is drilled about 1 1/2" deep. Hand drilled it out with 7/16" drill. Took a short length of bailing wire and bent about 3/8" over at 90 degrees. Used that to dig the approximately 3/16" hole out that goes straight up into the water jacket. Used a long slim punch and piece of 1/8" welding rod to work down from the top through the right rear coolant hole (approx. 1/2" diameter) that flows coolant to/from the head. Notice the welding rod going down through the coolant port and into the hole to the drain cock in this photo; also the bailing wire tool:

 

DrainCock1_zps266bf41e.jpg

 

Here's a shot of the rod extending down into the drain cock port:

 

DrainCock2_zpsf63428ac.jpg

 

And a shot from the top down through the coolant port in the block deck that shows the little hole that connects the water jacket with the drain cock hole:

 

DrainCock3_zps71ed7425.jpg

 

If you're building an E1 or J13 engine and want to be able to drain the block, you'll need to clear this passageway out. Otherwise, the drain cock is there just for a historical visual only. By the way the drain cock is totally stopped up also. I'll clear it out and polish the brass that it is made completely of for a nice visual on the finished engine. On to the next hill.


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#46 Charlie69

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 03:15 PM

Good work!  Just curious, did you have the block hot tanked?



#47 difrangia

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 05:05 PM

It was ran through a regular engine shop washer twice. I should have cleaned out this passageway before taking it to the shop. I hope this will be helpful to someone else who is building one of these old pushrod motors. Earlier in the thread I posted photos of the removal of the oil galley plugs. I've got some other chores on the slate for this week and one is to chase all threads, grease the cylinder bores and cam bearings and hose everything out at the car wash. Then back to the house for a blow dry and regrease. Then I'll check crank bearing clearances (plastigage) and check endplay. Next paint the block & head and let that cure for a day or two and begin assembly.


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#48 Charlie69

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 11:53 PM

The shop I use hot tanks then it goes in to the parts washer then they then they wire brush all journals and passages water and oil. All machining is done.  After that it goes back into the parts washer then it is hand washed with dawn dish washing liquid and water just before assembly.  It costs more but I think it is worth it.



#49 difrangia

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 04:24 AM

The block had a good amount of the original paint when I took it to the shop. Two trips through the washer stripped all the paint and took everything to bare metal, inside and out. I've chased all the threads and will get a good car wash blast this afternoon. I would have done this anyway to insure that any grind wheel dust or machining dropoff is blown away in addition to any oil on surfaces to be painted to get a good bond. All machined and bearing surfaces will get a light coat of oil after car wash and blow dry. Time to start shaking the paint.


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#50 Charlie69

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 08:27 AM

What color?



#51 difrangia

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 10:01 AM

Charlie, refer back to the initial post on this thread. I Gunk Gelled and car washed the block & head when I got her torn down and there was enough good original paint to have it spectragraphed and get a quart of paint mixed up. They need a fairly flat area about 2 1/2" X 4" to get a scan. He ran the scan in the computer for a match and closest match was an International Harvester engine colour that just needed a little tinting. I told them to mix it a couple shades lighter than the actual block as it had been boiled in oil & engine compartment crud for half a century. I did the same for the air cleaner housing on the 620 a year and a half ago and a Skoda (Czech car) came up closest, needing only a minor adjustment. There is a thread on here somewhere for the 620 air cleaner project. I'll be doing the 320 air cleaner with the remaining paint left from the 620. I'll be posting photos shortly of the result.


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#52 Charlie69

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 03:59 PM

Sorry i forgot about the original paint on the block.  You are doing a great job.



#53 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 10:12 PM

Yeah, keep it coming. It should be nice when done. I like 'em a little rough around the edges. If they're too clean there's no story. A story is worth more to me than brand new paint.

 

But on that note, I love that you went the extra mile to have all the engine pieces coated.

 

Rough on top, shiny underneath...perfect.



#54 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 10:16 PM

You know, after looking at the pics of the lifters, I might run them across a fine grit sandpaper to smooth out some of those grooves. They look nice, but they look a little coarse. Use a fine emery cloth and some WD40 to knock down any sharp edges.



#55 Spoona_Jay21

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 10:35 PM

Just read through about 80% of this (as i am a simple mind and am pleased by pictures) and this looks like a fun build, and looks like this NL has gone to a good home =D

 

Wish i could do somethin like this with one of my cars, but either there is enough stock examples i don't have to feel bad, OR they are too far gone in my case! :rofl:



#56 difrangia

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 01:16 PM

Fiddlin' around with the erector set. Keep the pressure on, little buddy.

 

Ready%20To%20Paint%202_zpsx3vcz5ge-1.jpg

 

Ready%20To%20Paint%201_zpsyhhbxtff-1.jpg

 

Painted%20amp%20Coated%202_zpschqs2fme-1

 

Painted%20amp%20Coated%201_zpsckdygvem-1


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#57 difrangia

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 01:34 PM

This is the paint. Code is supposed to be PPG paint and tinted to be a tad lighter than the cleaned up engine block.

 

Paint%20Code%20-%20Datsun%20Block%20PPG%

 

This is what I'll use on the air cleaner. This code should check to be a Skoda (Czech car) color.

 

DatsunAirCleanerPPGPaintCode_zps808ec744l

 

Photo of the air cleaner on the 620 painted with this paint.

 

AirFilter3_zps21b3b3d9.jpg


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#58 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 02:03 PM

Nice work.



#59 Conner

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 04:52 PM

Very nice!  



#60 difrangia

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 05:29 PM

Setting up to check crank clearance with Plastigage.

 

Plastigaging%20the%20Crank_zpsnv5vgoua-1

 

Spec. .0005-.0020   

Measures .00175 on journal with highest clearance. It's OK with me.

 

Plastigage%20Checks%20OK_zps4vjwja3v-1.j

 

Endplay: Spec  .002-.003

Measures just under .002

Forge on ahead.

 

  1. End-Play%20OK_zpscpwxbltd-1.jpg

Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!