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510 sound deadening- for a comfortable, quiet ride


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Welcome to Ratsun KiD. I think there are several topics about sound deadening here.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/44903-diy-sound-deadening-and-carpet-ratsun-style/

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/25433-dynamat-and-sound-deadening/

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/18081-sound-deadening/

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/25467-sound-deadening/

 

I found these easily in about 5 seconds by typing 'sound deadening' into our search function at the top right of every page under the 510 picture on the header. Also try looking through (a bit more work) any car or truck project thread as this is a common area of interest on our cars. Road and vehicle noise adds to the fatigue of driving and does not add help when listening to a sound system. There nay be a few do's and don'ts or areas with problems or to avoid and some ideas. Deadening the sound can be expensive and difficult, but it doesn't have to be 

 

Nice first post BTW KiD bonus points for posting pictures. You may want to cut out a thin panel to cover behind the rear seat and cover it also to keep trunk sounds out. More difficult are the doors. They can be part covered to add mass which will absorb some sound and change the frequency that they would naturally vibrate at. Anyway I will leave this to others to comment on.   

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  • 1 month later...

      Finished taking off the tranny tunnel insulation and GMATTED the interior. I'm still researching to do the doors propely next and will do the trunk later. I have half my sound deadener left. My dashboard was a skeleton, rusted out so i sanded it and wd40 to stop future rust. NO FOAM left!! :confused: so i bought a dash cap. This week I'll be planning to reassemble my dash but I NEED SOME MISSING hardware; screws and nuts missing that goe to my gauge cluster. :sick:  :blush:

 

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It truly is a product of material density. I'm considering firewall and floors with stable mat. 5/8" rubber. Heavy thick mat. I've got gobs of dynamat already in, and it's loud as fuck. I'm odd, but I like a quiet ride.

I'm traumatized by the clinging windows of the dry weather seals and the motor's sound with bare metal and no insulation and the firewall's noise. My brother's 510 goon is so loud.

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  • 1 month later...

Now doing the firewall with heat insullation. $18.99 at Home depot and you'll 

have some spare too.20150228_155816_zpsqeqo69xj.jpg

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Before you install your carpet, most ways include a padding under or cushion that can help lock sound.

I'm planning to combo that when I get my interior re - upholstered

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Fitted the seats in

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And that's how i did my dime

Hope it gave some people an idea to what it is

This is just a mediocre level, and good priced! :thumbup:

:hug:      :hug:        :hug:       :hug:      :hug:

              :console:       :console:          :console:            :console:

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Yay, more uninformed posts about adding weight to cars! This stuff barely does anything. And you dont need as much as you used.

 

 

The proper application is to cover 1/4 of a panel, right in the middle of the panel. All this stuff will do is dampen panel vibration, but not block sound. Your door might "thunk" when closing now, but its no more quieter.

 

If you really want to cut down on sound, you need to go all the way. A layer of closed cell foam covering the panels, which itself will block high end sounds, and then a layer of mass loaded vinyl (peal and seal would probably be ok).

 

Basically the foam decouples the mass loaded vinyl from vibrating nearly as much as the panel it is covering vibrates, and in turn reduces the sound in the car.

 

 

Other ways to decrease panel vibration include, expanding foam in corners, and using spray on under coating.

 

I used the spray undercoating inside all of my doors and quarter panels. The texture and the added mass help to disrupt the sound waves at the other skin of the car.

 

Expanding foam can tension panels. But be careful with the stuff. Dont put in places were moisture can go, it will trap the moisture and promote rust. Also dont put too much in a tight spot, this stuff is strong, you can dent your car from the inside from foam expanding and needing a place to go.

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Yay, more uninformed posts about adding weight to cars! This stuff barely does anything. And you dont need as much as you used.

 

 

The proper application is to cover 1/4 of a panel, right in the middle of the panel. All this stuff will do is dampen panel vibration, but not block sound. Your door might "thunk" when closing now, but its no more quieter.

 

If you really want to cut down on sound, you need to go all the way. A layer of closed cell foam covering the panels, which itself will block high end sounds, and then a layer of mass loaded vinyl (peal and seal would probably be ok).

 

Basically the foam decouples the mass loaded vinyl from vibrating nearly as much as the panel it is covering vibrates, and in turn reduces the sound in the car.

Yay I added 20 lbs. to a high way cruiser, that I'm not gonna race :yawn:.    I will be adding dense foam when I get my interior re-upholstered. 

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Expanding foam can tension panels. But be careful with the stuff. Dont put in places were moisture can go, it will trap the moisture and promote rust. Also dont put too much in a tight spot, this stuff is strong, you can dent your car from the inside from foam expanding and needing a place to go.

Covering my door panels back up with the plastic seal would help with the moisture?

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congrats you just wasted a bunch a money! I did the same in my 510 wagon was still loud as hell. 

Sound Deadening IS SUCH MIXED reviewed! Alot say it works alot said it did nothing but made their car smell like ASS    fault.  I honestly just thought it would cover some panel vibrations, but hearing from a datsun person, that'll be more worthy than other reviews. Too late, but I'll use foam in the future. Cool ass goon BTW. 

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Hey though it will not make it Caddy quiet every little bit helps. What makes cars loud is..

1. Modified exhaust w/larger exhaust pipe= droaning

2. Poly bushings in place of rubber

3. Lowering: stiffer shocks & springs

4. Worn door/windows/1/4 windows (2-door) weather seal

5. Leaky shifter boot

6. Tires

7. Worn bearings front, rears, trans and or differential

8. Overly lowered creating to much rear half shaft angularity which created vibration=noise at speed

 

 These cars were never meant to float like a butterfly, so BRE and us all made them to Sting like a Bee B)

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9. Sheet metal tin canning and vibrating

10. Everything in the car rattling against everything else, like doors against door frames, trunk and hood against rock hard not really rubber anymore bumpers, etc.

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engine noise is a biggie on datsuns i think getting that firewall plastered and the underside of the hood would help also they are not aerodynamic buy any means (maybe the Z is) but in no way is the 510. They don't call them flying bricks for nothing, so the wind noise going over the car tends to add to the DB level

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I used the under coating spray on my door panels, inside quarter panels, all four wheel wells, and the underside of my hood. These four areas made a huge difference. What once sounded like a tin shed being dragged around town now sounds like a 45 year old car being driven around town. Try the undercoat, it's easy and seems to work.

I walked around the car tapping all of the panels and determined the loudest areas to address first, it does really make your doors sound much nicer when being shut.

Nice work getting all that trimmed up nicely and looking tidy. Bonus

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