Brake booster delete: Anybody done this?

[MicroMachinery]

I've come up against a scenario where a turbocharger and a brake master cylinder are competing for the same space. I've considered the idea of finding a thinner, smaller brake booster to move the master cylinder back, but I was also contemplating removing the brake booster altogether in order to move the BMC back far enough away to keep the heat away from the reservoir and fluid.

 

Has anybody done this in their Datsun? What were the results? I'm sure a stiffer pedal, but did the braking action actually suffer? Or was it just a little more effort required when braking. Thank you!

[datzenmike]

Remove and you will do more work for the same stop. The limit would be how long in stop and go driving and how tired you get. Driver fatigue should be eliminated or reduced where you can. In some cases you can handle it for the short term. Or go to the gym.

 

The zx /Maxima and later S10 200sx are larger diameter and very slightly thinner but being wider they will interfear with the clutch master. If you can move the clutch master farther to the left you could loose the pedestal behind the booster??? You would have to modify the shorter brake push rod.

[Draker]

What car?

 

I think you'll find it's a major bitch to brake without it. Maybe if you replace the master with a bigger master?

 

This is probably not a roller, but if it was you could drive the car, shut off the engine. lightly brake, then your second pump will be completely unassisted.

 

I've done this on several cars. All heavy as shit and brake systems designed for a booster.

[MicroMachinery]

It's on a 610.

 

This is with the booster(Even with the aluminum spacer removed):

 

And this is what it looks like with the booster removed:

[thisismatt]

Can't clock the manifold flange counterclockwise?  You would have to go with a smaller M/C to get an easier pedal.

[MicroMachinery]

Can't clock the manifold flange counterclockwise? 

 

Could you please elaborate on this for me? I've only heard of clocking a turbo in terms of locating the oil feed and drain into position..

[thisismatt]

I mean...fabrication involved...it looks like you have room if you could rotate the turbo counterclockwise a bit, and cut down the bleeder screw.  Maybe not.  I would try to save the booster if I could

[INDY510]

I used a stock PL510 brake master 'backing plate' and a 7/8ths master cylinder, with 280zx front brakes, on my '75 710. I hope it will feel like a 510, with the same set-up, but I might be wrong.... I had to use the 510 push-rod too, on a Z car 7/8ths master

 

It all bolted up, without any modifications to anything, and I used a 510 brake line 4-way safety block, which bolted to the strut tower like a stock 510.

 

 

The temporary brake lines look horrible, someday I will route new lines without the ugly 510 safety block: and just a tee fitting

 

[MikeRL411]

 

The temporary brake lines look horrible, someday I will route new lines without the ugly 510 safety block: and just a tee fitting

 

 

 

Looks OK to me.

[MicroMachinery]

I used a stock PL510 brake master 'backing plate' and a 7/8ths master cylinder, with 280zx front brakes, on my '75 710. I hope it will feel like a 510, with the same set-up, but I might be wrong.... I had to use the 510 push-rod too, on a Z car 7/8ths master

 

It all bolted up, without any modifications to anything, and I used a 510 brake line 4-way safety block, which bolted to the strut tower like a stock 510.

 

 

The temporary brake lines look horrible, someday I will route new lines without the ugly 510 safety block: and just a tee fitting

 

 

That's the route I was thinking of going; with the 510 mounting plate. I am going to have to relocate the safety block as well, seeing as how the external wastegate hits it otherwise.

[MicroMachinery]

I mean...fabrication involved...it looks like you have room if you could rotate the turbo counterclockwise a bit, and cut down the bleeder screw.  Maybe not.  I would try to save the booster if I could

 

Ah yes. I suppose it this all becomes too complicated, I may just order a log style manifold kit and completely change things around.

[Burabuda]

the 610 gods frown upon booster removal

besides you've got larger calipers/brakes to power up? (we hope)

[MicroMachinery]

ZX; front and back.

[wayno]

Just go with a remote power brake booster.

They make aftermarket units for every application, just search "remote power brake booster".

[INDY510]

alot of 510 guys just run a tee fitting, instead of the huge 510 'safety' block ... here's how duke did his lines:

 

[Burabuda]

^ unrelated question: is he still running the stock steering box?

[MicroMachinery]

Just looking at what it's gonna take.. building new brake lines, deleting brake booster, relocating safety block, etc.. I'm thinking it may be an easier(and possibly less expensive) route to find(or build) a new exhaust manifold. Keep it top mount, but move the flange further forward.

[Burabuda]

^ i feel ya. i want a larger booster to match my master cylinder + calipers, but i'm not gonna mess with the required brake line re-routing

[Laecaon]

Micro, I'm planning on building a front bottom mount, and keeping a T2 flange on it. You probably noticed there is no way to run the factory manifold like SRs...

[MicroMachinery]

That would be ideal. I'd need one with a T3 flange.

[Greased monkey]

This is what solved my issues :) cheaper than changing the whole setup you have and fabricating cost.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-Reverse-Swing-Triple-Master-Cylinder-Pedal-511,34042.html

[datzenmike]

How do you check and fill them? :lol:

[MicroMachinery]

This is what solved my issues :) cheaper than changing the whole setup you have and fabricating cost.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-Reverse-Swing-Triple-Master-Cylinder-Pedal-511,34042.html

 

Perhaps, but I'd still have no booster, have to make new brake lines, and the safety block would still need to be relocated. I know a number of very proficient welders, so if I have to have a manifold constructed, I have reason to believe it would basically be the cost of materials, a little time, and perhaps a case of beer ;)

[Greased monkey]

How do you check and fill them? :lol:

 

The same way you check and fill any other system. It's just inside the car ;)

[Greased monkey]

Perhaps, but I'd still have no booster, have to make new brake lines, and the safety block would still need to be relocated. I know a number of very proficient welders, so if I have to have a manifold constructed, I have reason to believe it would basically be the cost of materials, a little time, and perhaps a case of beer ;)

I'm not sure if you actually checked the setup I linked but you would not need a booster for it.

The brake lines... It's not that hard and you would not need to make lines all the way to the calipers as in having to redo the whole braking system.

 

I would do a little more research before you decide. More go power and less stop power seems like a bad idea to me but that's just my opinion.