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1964 Datsun WPL410


pl521sss

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I need help sourcing out front brake hoses.

Online vendors like Rock auto doesn't list the part.

 

It has super thick springs that are impossible to stretch and secure in place. 

But the good news is, it runs smooth and starts right away with newly installed EI setup.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

A few updates on the wagon.

Front lowered almost 3 inches.

New brakes and Master cylinder.

Installed seats and electronic Ignition

 

Front brakes still locks up

Not sure what to check yet to even out all pressure to the wheels.

 

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I'm assuming (yeah, I know, dangerous) that you're using the stock drum brakes all around with that shiny new single reservoir brake master cylinder, and that they've been bled thoroughly.

 

Do the brakes lock up immediately, or do they work okay at first, and then get progressively harder until they lock up?

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I'm assuming (yeah, I know, dangerous) that you're using the stock drum brakes all around with that shiny new single reservoir brake master cylinder, and that they've been bled thoroughly.

 

Do the brakes lock up immediately, or do they work okay at first, and then get progressively harder until they lock up?

 

I've bled the brakes on all 4 corners using vacuum pump.

There's good pressure on the pedal and it locks up on front passenger side immediately.

Turns freely when I have it on jack stands.

 

I do have the disc brake kit but it will take a while to do the upgrade.

It will be upgraded at much later time.

There's a lot in the list to tackle like the wiring and alternator.

Hoping will get more help from Ratsun 410\411 expert soon.

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Do all the drums somewhat drag evenly when you spin them up on jackstands?  You don't want them too spin freely as usually the wheel cylinders doesn't move shoes very far ,, so the one that is tightest will hit first.

 

Correction on my previous statement. 

Front passenger wheel does turn but has a slight drag at a certain degree before completing a full rotation.

Going to lift the car this weekend and re-check brakes again.

 

I lowered the front by cutting the springs about 3 coils and removed bump stops.

It has about 1.5 inch travel left, it's going to need new shocks.

Roadster comp springs would be the way to go if I can find them.

 

Does anyone have a part number for a longer U-bolt for the rear shackles?

It's narrower than a Datsun 510 U-bolt

Will be adding 2 inch block on the rear and remove that lower flipped leaf spring.

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Get the drums turned and then find an old school brake shop that can arch the shoes to fit. Not too many places will do this anymore due to the dust and liability it creates.

 

Yeah. Luckily, I have an old school shop near me. Wasn't cheap. Cost about $140 to have the drums turned, and the shoes relined and arched.

 

Then I bought the second disc brake kit mklotz made, and sold the drum stuff to Mister Ted for his SPL310.  :rofl:

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Get the drums turned and then find an old school brake shop that can arch the shoes to fit. Not too many places will do this anymore due to the dust and liability it creates.

 

I'm not clear on this.

So if the drum is turned, why do I need to re-arch the brake shoes to fit?

I installed new brakes shoes. Can't find new brake drums.

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I'm not clear on this.

So if the drum is turned, why do I need to re-arch the brake shoes to fit?

I installed new brakes shoes. Can't find new brake drums.

The purpose of re-arching is to get maximum contact of the brake shoe lining against the new or turned drum. A "lost art" and probably not necessary on new cars, but we're talking old here.  :)

 

Found a great thread that discusses this: http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/304894/

 

Notice in that thread where one poster had all new parts for his '57 Chevy, but the brakes were still locking up.

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What Pete said. The thickness of a relined shoes is often times thicker than OEM. There is not enough room to let off the adjuster to let the drum spin freely. If you grind down the end of the shoe where it goes into the cylinder it changes the angle of the shoe. Most likely will work anyway but why not do it right. I have run into this on the last two Roadster rear brake jobs that I have done. He good news is that the rear brakes only do about 20% of the work but you still want them to operate correctly.

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What Pete said. The thickness of a relined shoes is often times thicker than OEM. There is not enough room to let off the adjuster to let the drum spin freely. If you grind down the end of the shoe where it goes into the cylinder it changes the angle of the shoe. Most likely will work anyway but why not do it right. I have run into this on the last two Roadster rear brake jobs that I have done. He good news is that the rear brakes only do about 20% of the work but you still want them to operate correctly.

....and in your case it's drums all around and you've done everything else correct, so (IMO) re-arching is the next step to resolve the locking up problem.

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What Pete said. The thickness of a relined shoes is often times thicker than OEM. There is not enough room to let off the adjuster to let the drum spin freely. If you grind down the end of the shoe where it goes into the cylinder it changes the angle of the shoe. Most likely will work anyway but why not do it right. I have run into this on the last two Roadster rear brake jobs that I have done. He good news is that the rear brakes only do about 20% of the work but you still want them to operate correctly.

 

....and in your case it's drums all around and you've done everything else correct, so (IMO) re-arching is the next step to resolve the locking up problem.

 

 

Thanks for the education on drum brakes.

I never heard of this till now. However I've been dealing with rear drum brakes on other Datsuns but never all drums with lock up issue.

Will consider grinding the edge of the brake shoes.

This is a temporary solution and I only intend to drive the car around my house till I swap out to disc brakes which I already have in my parts stash.

I opted to redo the drum brakes cause it's the easier route to get it back on the road.

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  • 3 weeks later...

How about using the old u bolts and just running a dye further down the bolt extending the threads and trim off the excess.

 

Actually you'll need longer U bolts when adding lowering blocks.

Fact that I removed 3 springs gave it enough room to use the original U bolt.

All the U bolts that I've looked at requires slotting the mounting plates.

There's no perfect match unless you get it custom built U bolts.

Either 3\8 or 7\16 thick can be used with 2 1\4 distance between.

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