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oil in coolant but no coolant in oil.???!!


illestmatic

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So should just keep the original 210 casting head. I'm on a budget and I just found a peanut head for sale their asking 500$ which is a little bit to much for my liking.

 

 

Hahaha... $500? wow.. is it gold plated?

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Then you are not that far away from a decent head, it's better than being in Bloomington, Illinois!!!

You should be able to find a good used head for a $100.00 and then have it rebuilt, which likely would equal about $350.00, but if that peanut head for $500.00 is a 219/V912 head, then buy it.

This head will be rebuilt. I live in Bloomington ca. Or known as Fontana ca

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That's right I'm not that far from getting a head. Thiers actually 2 620 trucks at my local junk yard . Im going tomorrow to check it out.

Look for a closed A87 big valved head if you can find one, you could also use a modified W53 head, a stock one has small valves, but if you just drive normally a stock one will work, I don't believe you want any open head, I think it will drop the CR to much, stay away from the W58 castings, they will require a different exhaust manifold.

Your kinda stuck with the L16 block for head options, and you don't want a 210 head, they have small everything, but if that is the choice between having a running car, and having it on blocks, put it on the engine, it's better than nothing, hopefully it won't crack and start dumping oil into the water jacket like your A87 head did, and then find a good head as soon as can, another good avenue would be to upgrade to an L20b.

Another thing you need to look at is the intake holes, you do not want the head intake holes to be smaller than the intake manifold holes, it's all right for the intake holes to be smaller than the heads intake holes, but the other way around doesn't work, it's better for them to be the same size.

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Where is Bloomington?  If it is in the NW you should be able to find a decent L20B for about what you are looking at paying for a head.  Might not be new but as long as it runs decent you can make it look new with a little work and paint. 

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charlie69: bloomington, ca s near fontana,ca where we go for our SWDP BBQ and where the datsun dealership is where we go take pix of our club memebers datsuns. it is on and around I-10 b4 fontana.

 

illestmatic: i had coolant leaks from my w53 head b4 cuz of machine shop milled it too much so i went with a U67 head and so far no issues with leaks

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Way too much.People throw away L16 and 210 heads.A U67 L20B head would work if you also mill it 1 mm. That's a big cut and you may have to move the cam sprocket to the next hole to remove the introduced chain slack.

I went ahead and bought a U67 head off of a 1976 620 w/ a L20b. I see you noted that ill need to "mill" it 1mm. By that do you mean resurface the head 1mm.

And will I be able to use my L16 chain with the U67 head w/o chain slack ?

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The difference between a stock 210 and a U-67 head is about 7cc of combustion chamber volume. The U-67 head has more room in it so your nice crisp 8.58 compression will drop to 6.72.

 

Shaving 1 mm off will remove 5.4cc and this will bring your compression back up to 8.4 which is close enough.

 

Yes effectively lowering the cam 1mm closer to the crank will add some slack to your timing chain but that's what the tensioner is there for. I'm more concerned that the cam timing will be advanced. You can (and should anytime the sprocket is going to be off) check the cam timing just by looking. If it is too far advanced the cam can be moved ahead to the next dowel position to correct.

 

 

Has anyone mentioned that the timing chain has to be blocked to prevent the tensioner from falling out. I know it's a little late for that now but....

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Okay let me clear up that my original head was a "A87" it didn't say 210 on it. Though idk if this matters or if its all the same thing.

And wow a U67 head dropps my compression substantialy. Makes me regret buying it I actually wanted a head that would help me gain power not loos it :/ but its okay ill make the best out of it.

I'll be taking the head tomorrow to get checked and resurfaced. I'll tell the shop guy the mill it down 1mm. Right?

Mhmm your right. It might be advanced but ill see what happens when its all put together.

Damn ill look into it.

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It might be milled already, that is something the machine shop needs to check.

See the photo below, see how the 219 is almost touching the bottom, is your U67 like this one, or is the bottom of the U67 touching the bottom, or is it actually shaved off a little, I have seen heads where the bottom of the U is missing.

DSCN2097.JPG

See how this head has lots of meat between the bottom of the head and the number.

DSCN0477.JPG

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It might be milled already, that is something the machine shop needs to check.

See the photo below, see how the 219 is almost touching the bottom, is your U67 like this one, or is the bottom of the U67 touching the bottom, or is it actually shaved off a little, I have seen heads where the bottom of the U is missing.

DSCN2097.JPG

See how this head has lots of meat between the bottom of the head and the number.

DSCN0477.JPG

I checked the head and it has A LOT of meat :D (like the w53 head)

 

Question: how do know if its a closed or open chamber head just by looking at them ?

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If the round open part of the combustion chamber covers over the whole top of the piston ... it's an open chamber head.

At top dead center, if some parts of the piston top almost touch the bottom of the head and are only a head gasket thickness away, then it is said to be a closed chamber or peanut head. The open part of the combustion chamber on a peanut head is shaped like a .... peanut or kidney bean and does not extend to the cylinder walls.

This would be a closed chamber head...

 

headL245hp1.jpg

 

 

and this

01300019.jpg

 

This is an open chamber head.

 

motorW-58openL20B78620.jpg

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All U67 heads are open, don't need to see it.

This head in the photo below is open chamber.

DSCN0481.JPG

While the photo below is of a closed head, see how the chamber has a peanut shape.

DSCN0585.JPG

I checked the head and it has A LOT of meat :D (like the w53 head)

Question: how do know if its a closed or open chamber head just by looking at them ?

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Ahhh okay totally see the difference. Thank you guys so much for the info. I wouldn't of been able to do this myself.

I would like the peanut head the shop is offering me but I don't think its with the investment on a L16. The L20 is a different story.

Question at the junk today I saw a couple Nissan trucks w/ 2.4 liter engines and almost looked like a L series but the intake manifold was on opposite sides of the head. Is this motor the Zblock?

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Z series yes. It is the next generation and based on the previous L series. The Z20 is basically an L20B with a Z series head on it. The Z22 is, again. a 2.2 liter L20B and the Z24 a 2.4 liter L20B. L series heads will fit on all Z series engines too.

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Let's understand something here about the Z series engines, it's not just a bolt it in, or a route a couple wires here and this thing will run and drive, the later Z24 has an ECU of sorts, it's more like converting to a EFI engine.

The very early Z series engine like the Z20 might not need that ECU.

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