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1994 Nissan Hardbody 4x4


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Could I use fine sand paper on this? Its not suppose to be build up I'm pretty sure. Don't mind the grit on the side of the cap.. that is from siting open, it was clean when I first opened it. 

 

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Just waiting on the bolt.. And I'm going to have my brother order a water pump tomorrow at autozone. I should mention that the tensioner was the only thing holding in the loose guide.. so if that had slipped down farther then it did I'm sure that engine would be toasted. If you have one of these I'd recommend checking it.. you can probably check it just by taking the valve cover off. 

 

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Its going to be a bit of a pain to tighten the camshaft bolt but I think I'll do it after I have the timing cover, oil pump and distributor in. 

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Ok yeah I'll do that then.. that should be good for 10HP at least  :thumbup:

 

 

I hate to have so many questions but should I torque the timing chain guide bolts to 10ft-lbs. Or should I just use locktite and 10ft-lbs? I'm asking because I don't want them come out since two of the bolts already had when I opened it up. 

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Got the water pump and oil. 

 

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Now I'm just waiting on the freaking bolt still! it was a 3 day priority which I paid 10 bucks for.. its gone from DECATUR, GA to ATLANTA, GA to CHICAGO, IL to ELK GROVE VILLAGE, IL to KANSAS CITY, MO to SPRINGFIELD, MO if it doesn't go to my towns post office next I'm gonna be so pissed. 

 

I got some rims off a 720 4x4 they are 15x8's and I'm gonna try to put some old tires on them that have really good tread so I can tear them up. As long as I don't ruin any of the tires taking them off or putting them on it should be fine. 

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DEFINITELY use loctite on the tensioner bolt.  Clean out the hole with brake cleaner, wipe out and remove any left with a rag, then hit it with air to get the last bits out.  Then loctite.  That's the very bolt that dropped out and bounced through the crank on the first KA motor in my red truck.  Wiped out a 1/4 hole in the oil galley.  Not good.  That's why they didn't have any oil pressure and why that engine grenaded.

 

With any internal timing case tensioners, clean the holes, use loctite.  Cheap insurance against catastrophic failure.

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DEFINITELY use loctite on the tensioner bolt.  Clean out the hole with brake cleaner, wipe out and remove any left with a rag, then hit it with air to get the last bits out.  Then loctite.  That's the very bolt that dropped out and bounced through the crank on the first KA motor in my red truck.  Wiped out a 1/4 hole in the oil galley.  Not good.  That's why they didn't have any oil pressure and why that engine grenaded.

 

With any internal timing case tensioners, clean the holes, use loctite.  Cheap insurance against catastrophic failure.

 

Yeah I'm going to use threadlocker for sure! Its says 9-14 ft-lbs so maybe I should try to get it around 12-13 ft-lbs.

The bolts finally came in! 

 

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New or old sprocket? New one is in a picture on this page. The dot is at 3oclock and its a dark colored link. I can get a picture of the old sprocket tomorrow. 

 

Also while you have the valve cover off to check the timing chain it would be a good time to see if your guides are intact.. 

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Here is a picture of the old sprocket. 

 

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Ok here is the important info.. The dot on the camshaft needs to be 3 oclock.

Turning the crankshaft with the links matched on the dots it is 34 revolutions before the links match up with the marks again..

Also there is virtually no way of knowing if it jumped a tooth on the crankshaft sprocket. The dot will be at like 4-5 oclock. So unless you remove the timing cover or can get a look by dropping the oil pan.

 

Hope this info helps you.. If you need to know anymore feel free to ask and I'll try to get it for you. 

 

Also I got a Torque Wench for Christmas!! Exactly what I need. 

 

Also I think mine jumped a tooth, actually I think that is the way to know if it jumped a tooth.. Because the dot aligns up with the outside bar of the link right? well in this picture when I took it apart.. you can see the dot aligns up inbetween the outside bars on the chain. And all the time I was rotating the chain and two sprockets for the 34 revolutions count.. it never did that. 

 

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New or old sprocket? New one is in a picture on this page. The dot is at 3oclock and its a dark colored link. I can get a picture of the old sprocket tomorrow. 

 

Also while you have the valve cover off to check the timing chain it would be a good time to see if your guides are intact.. 

Ok i went back & saw that pic plus i have the HB repair manual & ive done this on a few trucks before.

Mine supposedly has a new chain..lets hope they put a new tensioner on also.

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Ok yeah I'm assuming if the outside bar of the chain aligns up with the dot you are probably fine. The Hardbody repair manual doesn't really help a damn bit, other then the torque specs. 

 

Yours is a 92 so yeah I'd hope they changed the guides too since it would be plastic. 

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I'm a lucky dude.. this engine was about to fail.. The chain was pretty close to getting through the cover and letting coolant into the oil. 

 

I put some JB weld on it to be safe. I don't know if its the best thing to use but I didn't really want to buy a new cover. 

 

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Got the water pump installed torqued it to 13 ft-lbs. 

 

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I used loctite on all the guide bolts and torqued them to 12 ft-lbs I forgot to use loctite on the tensioner bolts but I think it will be fine.. I tried my best to get them between 5.1-5.8 ft-lbs didn't have a inch-lb torque wench.. just a needle torque wench. 

 

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Going to install the timing cover late tonight and maybe try to get the oil pump and distributor on too, and then finish up everything else tomorrow. 

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Got the timing cover on.. It was probably the hardest thing. It didn't want to go in very easy, but I convinced it to go in. I nearly left a rag in the water passage.. that would have been bad haha. 

 

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Distributor and Oil pump in.. Wasn't terribly hard.. had to re-adjust the oil pump like 3 times but it wasn't too bad. 

Torqued everything down. I couldn't find the specs for the oil pump though. And I couldn't find if the gasket needed RTV or not. 

 

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Installed the harmonic balancer and torqued it down. 

 

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Tomorrow going to put the oil pan bolts in and install everything back on. And hopefully get it running

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Good luck with that man! I topped off the oil and coolant.. and got the timing to about 12 degrees 

I took it for a test drive and its nice! I think it has more power now..

 

I'm still thinking somehow I did something wrong and its going to cause problems. But I shouldn't lol I got everything done. 

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Good luck with that man! I topped off the oil and coolant.. and got the timing to about 12 degrees 

I took it for a test drive and its nice! I think it has more power now..

 

I'm still thinking somehow I did something wrong and its going to cause problems. But I shouldn't lol I got everything done. 

 

I think youll be fine. The KA's run forever & a day !

On mine theres no different color link on the timing chain..either side..

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My brother took it to his work yesterday.. He said the belt was squealing for a little bit at one time.. So I tightened the belts up.

 

Also you can hear a tapping now.. But isn't that normal for the KA24E's?  I think I couldn't hear it before because of the chain rattle. 

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My brother was coming home from work yesterday with the truck when he was about 2 miles from home he smelled smoke. The oil cap came off and so oil got all over the engine bay.. He checked the dipstick and he said he thought it was on low it was lol.. But then he dumped in 5 quarts of oil in it.. So I check it and its way over the high mark.. I drained like 4 1/2 quarts of oil out of it.. 

 

Ohh well I guess no harm done other then the oil in the engine bay..I suppose that was my fault though.. I knew I didn't tighten something down haha. 

I used some detergent and hot water and washed the engine bay out so its mostly just a film of oil left. 

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