FS5W71B transmission troubles need some input

[datzenmike]

 

The round thing is the rear seal and I think it just pushes on. Be sure to lubricate with engine oil so it does not start up dry!!!!! However the bottom half is supported by the rear main bearing cap and it has to seal along that vertical line in the picture above and the other side. For that there are two curtain seals (not sure if that's the proper name) but they push up from the oil pan surface and then there are two small thin metal strips that slide in behind them. Maybe they force a tighter seal? 

 

If the seal is bad only... then just replace it. Only if you suspect the side or curtain seals would I pull all that apart and change them.

 

Below is where they go, and be sure the surfaces are clean and degreased.  I would run a very thin smear of RTV all the way up that groove to the oil pan surface. Then instal the bearing and cap, tighten down and quickly push the 'curtain seals' in befor the RTV begins to gel.

 

[PAwelder]

yeah i assumed it would just push in, i just cant figure out how to get it out. i tried prying on it and it wouldnt move is there a tool or a trick to this style seal to remove them? if not, the kit did come with side curtains so i can drop the pan and remove the bearing cap if need be, its only the shaft seal thats leaking

[datzenmike]

Sheet metal screw or several. Vice grips to pull with?

[PAwelder]

i need to drill a few pilot holes in the steel inside the seal for the screws to start right? 

[Charlie69]

You can also use one of theses with sheet metal screws and washers. And yes pre-drill pilot holes for the sheet metal screws.

 

[Charlie69]

You can also use one of theses with sheet metal screws and washers. And yes pre-drill pilot holes for the sheet metal screws.

 

[84720FourWheel]

I did mine a month or so ago, I want to say I used a punch at an angle and wiggled it out sort of.

 

A small punch on the outer edge angled inward (toward the crankshaft) and a solid tap in about 5 places has proven successful in getting several bearing seals out of a 3/4 ton chevy drum/hub assy; which are of a similar style.

 

+1 on the RTV. You don't want to go back in there for a leaky new seal.

[PAwelder]

got her back back on the road as of last night! the rear main popped right out using the wood screw trick, but then i messed the new one up because a little ripple along the outer edge didnt want to go in the hole, so i found a new one and did it right. i didnt read the posts fast enough and didnt put any rtv on the seal, i guess we will see if she leaks. anyway thank you every one so much for all your help, me and my nissan really appreciate it!