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The Red Baron


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No clearance issues with any of the stock accessories including the alternator fan. Planning on putting the stock shroud back on once I sandblast and paint it as I am sure it will help help with cooling along with the under engine pan. Just didn't have time and had to wait for the Koyo radiator cap that I forgot to order (oops!). Also car was missing the rubber bumper guards for the gas cap so on those went. 

 

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Man, I don't think the user name The Heretic fits. Clearly you are devout, and steeped in the old time religion of 510 purity. There ante nothin heretical about this project. Absolutely great work, and attention to detail. I look forward to seeing you tooling around the Bay. 

 

Best of luck on the rest.

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LOL. Yeah maybe I'll change up the name at some point. Not sure what it will be...

 

Thinking I might either do a satin black (hides the dirt well) or the same thing I did to the thermostat housing. Sandblast and use Eastwood's metal protect paint to "seal" the sandblasted look. 

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Thanks for the pic of the lower hose fitment. This is where other "bolt -in" 510 radiators have clearance issues.

 

Also good that the OE fan shroud can be reinstalled, that is a BIG plus for cooling.

 

FutoFab has been looking at offering these radiators. Looks like we should do so.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Took the car to Mel's and Sons in Concord this week to weld up an exhaust leak from tweaking the pipe when the new L20b was installed. Also had them install a new rear section with a new stainless steel Magnaflow muffler. The PO had a glasspack as the muffler which I didn't like the sound (too loud) or the look. 

 

The owner of the shop is a fellow car nut and has raced Spec Miata for years setting numerous records at a bunch of race tracks. He used to have a 1983 De Tomaso Pantera in the middle of the shop but I guess he sold it. 

 

Was really happy with some the extra details and work he put into the exhaust like replacing the stock manifold-to-downpipe nuts and bolts with studs in the manifold and serrated nuts which will never back out or loosen up with heat. He also used an expander to open up the bottom of the stock downpipe from the stock size (1 5/8"?) up to 2" to match up to the rest of the exhaust and flow better. Can't say I can tell any difference in power but the car is quieter (in a good way) and the rear section looks much better. 

 

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I mentioned that I had Troy Ermish do the major work in putting in the L20b and doing the auto-to-manual conversion about a month or so ago. Very happy with his work and I also had him put all new front steering linkage, idler arm, etc while the car was at his shop. I wanted to covert from the stock linkage to cable pull on the SUs (Lokar) and since he had plenty of experience in this area I felt this was the time to do it. Once I got the car back I removed the stock coil and went with a MSD Blaster 2 and got rid of the stock resistor. And a couple of other things were upgraded.... B)

 

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Thanks! It's been a lot of $$$, late nights and weekends into the car so far. The car was in such good condition when I bought it, I wanted to respect most of the originality of car and period (70s) but improve on the usability and fun factor which is why I did the conversion to a perfectly running L16 and automatic transmission. No plans for a paint job (clear coat coming off) for a long long time or a real full restoration. Hoping to get into the 2015 California Melee with the car and take it on a bunch of rallies. While I am getting it into the cleanest state possible right now, make no mistake about it, with #2 on the way and my business getting even busier, I just want to drive it hard and put it away wet. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Extremely excited to be part of the 2015 California Melee! In mid-September each year (specifically the weekend after Labor Day) the California Melee gathers a limited group of mischievous old car enthusiasts and treats them to a three-day, 750 mile tour of the most beautiful roads that Northern California has to offer. Challenging to get into and the group is fairly selective on who they include but I did link the application to this build so maybe that helped. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Only have a few more days before the Melee starts. Pulled into Dean Sherman's garage to get the car completely ready for the 1000 mile adventure. Need to go through the entire braking system and make sure everything is either good to go or replaced. Going to finally put in those 280zx front struts and brakes and probably rebuild the rear drums the best I can. Long couple of days ahead...

 

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Very long day but was able to completely rebuild the rear drums and install the 280ZX struts and brakes. Kudos and much thanks to Dean who helped tremendously along the way as I was under a time crunch and needed to finish quickly but also do it the right way. Also installed a new 7/8 280Z master cylinder to compensate for the bigger brakes up front. 

 

Starting point for rear drums

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New Napa pads, wheel cylinders, hardware and cleaned and lubed the adjusters. Finally sanded the inside of the 240Z drums with 80 grit and sprayed a lot of brake cleaner everywhere. 

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Finished shot including replacing the old rear struts with new KYB Excel-G

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On to the front suspension! Removed existing stock struts

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Dean helping remove the 280ZX spring perch off the new struts

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Clean and painted satin black to look nice where no one can see  B)

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Comparison of stock master cylinder and new 280Z 7/8 master

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Bench bleeding the new master cylinder

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Installed...much easier job that I thought it would be

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Rotors turned, refreshed the wheel bearings, and clear coated the calipers. 

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Completed install with stainless steel brake lines  :thumbup:

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Fresh oil change with Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 dino and a Nissan oil filter

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Finally someone wanted a picture of the installed fan shroud on the Koyo radiator. Was only able to bolt the top up as when I bolted the bottom it started to fit the fan. Didn't have the desire to monkey with it but I'm sure I could get it to fit properly if I tried. The top bolts are solid for now and it's not going anywhere. 

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I always separate the trigger wires(to matchbox) from the coil wire incase the highvoltage get induced.

But if it works then ok

 

 

save that Jap brake master cylinder.

I find out most new taiwan masters dont last long

 

should have just got the T3 coil over kit and put that in there where were so close.

 

 

have you seen those red silocone radiator hoses on Amazon? maybe look cool on your car?

dont know if they even last

 

http://www.amazon.com/SILICONE-RADIATOR-COOLANT-NISSAN-DATSUN/dp/B011O2LWWM/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1441920865&sr=1-6&keywords=datsun+510+radiator+hoses

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Rotors turned, refreshed the wheel bearings, and clear coated the calipers. 

 

 

Completed install with stainless steel brake lines  :thumbup:

 

FYI, if you do not have bumpsteer spacers, when the pads get worn down past halfway the calipers will hit the tie rods. 

 

I usually fix this by swapping the struts side-to-side so the calipers are in the front.  :thumbup:

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