r0p0doe Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 That actually don't look too bad :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 I'm not sure why I have done this to every 510 I've ever owned Because it should be mandatory. B) Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 As much as I appreciate the originality of most of the 510 I knew that I had to convert the automatic to a manual for the simple enjoyment of driving. This is the first automatic I have ever owned and I've owned a number of interesting cars (everything from a Mazda R100 to a Honda S2000) and I couldn't keep it that way. I'm going to store everything that I take off the car just incase. I was looking for a 280zx tranny when a package deal popped up on CL combining a L20B and 200SX dogleg for a fairly good price. The previous owner was going to put in a SR20DET and so he sold me everything from engine/tranny to fuel system (he was running electronic fuel pump/regulator) and exhaust plus a bunch of misc parts. Considering the engine was rebuilt less that 5K miles ago and the transmission had a new clutch around the same time I knew exactly what I was getting. I was even able to drive the car before he pulled the engine for me. My 5 year+ plan is mucho $$$$ for the engine so this will be a great and fun bridge until then. Off the truck and before getting it onto the engine stand: Looks like I have some work to do before putting this into Jessie: 2 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Lookin' great man!! Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Some more details on the engine as I had to chance to start cleaning it up and gathering a parts list. Here are the basic specs: 1977 200SX L20B Block (rebuilt 5/2014) Closed Chamber A87 Head (Ported and Polished with 1.5" Intakes) Isky Stage 1 Cam and Springs (7005 Kit) S/S Nissan Competition 1.69" Intake and 1.38" Exhaust Valves 220 Manifold and 38mm SUs from a L18 SSS Estimated Compression of 9.0:1 It's definitely a 20 footer. Looking good here: But when you start to get closer...yikes! 2 Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Dropped oil pan to clean it out. You never know what happened with the previous ownership.. Degreaser and lots of rags later. 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Did they machine/polish the caps to balance the rods? Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 . Any thoughts about the differences between Panas and Watanabe? Watanabes are Japanese manufacture, Panasports are American copies if I am not mistaken. You could also go for 13" or 14" slotted rims. Quote Link to comment
Roz Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Watanabes are Japanese manufacture, Panasports are American copies if I am not mistaken. You could also go for 13" or 14" slotted rim Way back when, I bought a set of Panasports for an old BMW, They all said Made in Japan. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Panasports are American copies if I am not mistaken. They are neither copies, nor American. ^_^ If anything, they are Japanese-made copies of British-made Minilites... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Did they machine/polish the caps to balance the rods? I'm not sure...just have the receipt showing the rods being balanced. Basically the short block was rebuilt a few months back (I didn't own the engine then) so don't know all the details just have a receipt with about $600 worth of work on the engine. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 yay ratsun is edumicational lerned sumtin nue about Panasports Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 As I slowly work on cleaning up the engine and upgrading a couple of items (oil pump, etc) some parts for the manual tranny swap are starting to come in. Techo Toy Tuning Transmission Mount Techo Toy Tuning Steering Box Brace (I know, not part of the swap) Definitely need one of these :) 280Z Transmission Bushing I'll have some pics up soon of the parts that are being primed and painted. Like engine mount brackets, oil pan, engine block, etc. Using a new method that I have never tried before of sandblasting a lot of the aluminum parts such as the thermostat housing and then spraying a metal protectant from Eastwood to seal them. Looks great IMHO! 1 Quote Link to comment
Trophy24 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Post a pic of the sealer and the result. I like this idea! Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Post a pic of the sealer and the result. I like this idea! Here is a before and after pic of the thermostat housing. Simple process of sandblasting and spraying 2 light coats followed by one medium coat. Looks nice now but now the test of time as the reviews on Eastwood's website are mixed. But some of the reviews were on top of polished aluminum and they wanted to keep the high reflection look which didn't happen. Here is the link to the product - http://www.eastwood.com/ew-metaprotect-14-oz-aerosol.html 5 Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Slowly but surely working (15 minutes here and there) on getting the "new" motor ready for the swap in January. Was able to put in the KA24E high volume pump this morning. Installed and then remembered that I hadn't primped the pump. Maybe it's not that big of a deal but thought might as well do it right the first time. R&R again this time with some fresh Castrol GTX in it. 2 Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Kept the water pump that came with the motor as I'm pretty sure it was replaced only about 6 months ago. Installed the lower thermostat housing and about to screw in the new temperature sensor. Quick question - Any suggested sealant? Torque specs? 2 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Lovin the oics :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 High heat thread sealant from permatex is what I used and just good and Snug will do. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 carful on those lower stat housings they will crack if removing or tightening that sensor. hopefully you put oil in the pump(primed) before you installed it. w/o the oil there will be no vsacuum to suck the oil in the pan. when possible use antii seize compond on everything esp around the water pump bolt and stat housing bolts. moisture always rust those bolts Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Primed for sure, in fact had to take the pump out since I forgot the first time. Thinking of using a non-hardening sealant on the threads. Same one I would use on the oil pressure sender so there should be no problem with the heat. Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 New fuel pump came today. In stock since 11/1982 and finally sold to me! Have the gasket that came with it and also a new gasket/spacer from Nissan. Which one should I use? 1 Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Doesn't look like a 510 unit from the orientation of the Inlet outlet fittings. Doesn't mean it won't work just fine though ;) 510 unit... Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Was able to put in the KA24E high volume pump this morning. Installed and then remembered that I hadn't primped the pump. Maybe it's not that big of a deal... hopefully you put oil in the pump(primed) before you installed it. w/o the oil there will be no vsacuum to suck the oil in the pan. To echo what he said, if it's not primed you will NEVER build oil pressure. Learned that lesson the hard way... Quote Link to comment
Burabuda Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 fun nostalgic build :thumbup: in case you missed the oil filter threads Frams are almost unanimously considered junk nowadays Quote Link to comment
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