KrazyWaldo Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 So I've been debating over the last 2 weeks to get this 75 Datsun 620 swb. Its a 2nd owner truck allegidly 55k original miles? Its from Nashville Tn so there is alot of rust on it. The truck still has the original tittle from 1974 and the owners manual. They originally wanted $1,000 when I first saw it. It was having starting issues and would take a while to turn on. Once it did it would idle really high, so I figured it would need a carb rebuild or cleaning. It looks like they changed the choke to Electronic because there was a lot of wires coming of a part on the carb. I still test drove it regardless shifted butter smooth and clutch function properly. Strong little motor I got it up to 80mph so motor was running strong. It has had a tune up, plug wires, plugs, cap & rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, and new water pump replaced. The truck will need brakes, the dash is cracked, seat needs redone, needs drivers floor board repaired, door panels are nice, headliner is nice, all the exterior lights work, glass is intact no cracks. I was about to pull the plug and get it but when I went to pick it up the carb kept flooding and would refuse to start so I was like nvm I need it to run at least. Well the person who has the truck is the ex-wife and significant other. They kind of bought the truck cause they thought I would want it, which I do, but in the back of my head I keep thinking it needs a lot of work and I'm lazy. I can do the mechanical work, but I've never messed around with body work. Well theyve been messing around with the truck. The husband keeps insisting its a ignition problem, so he went out and bought a new coil, and distributor. There's spark at all plug wires and from the coil to the cap. It has a new fuel pump and recent tune up. Checked out the carb float level is right on the line but for some reason it keeps flooding. Anyways they still want me to buy it so they dropped the price to $800 but I'm still hesitant. Sorry for the long first post just looking for some opinions. All my buddy's think its a pos because of the condition its in. Obviously there's a reason I want the truck I grew up driving them when I was a little child. But I'll leave that for another post. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 How do the floors look? Not a bad looking truck really, not sure I'd pay $800 for it here, but they aren't that easy to come by over there. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 ^ That. And that is not 55K original miles. I has rolled over. But how many times? Look at the brake and clutch pedals. Is the rubber worn down? Quote Link to comment
KrazyWaldo Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Floors are fine, its just the drivers side where your feet touch that needs to be cut out and replaced/repaired. Everywhere else in the cab is fine. They are hard to find out here, If I was back in SoCal there everywhere. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 The fast idle is normal on a carburetor vehicle. Once warmed up it drops. It's adjustable. Floods? as in gas pours out of the carb? The float level rises to the top of the glass? Or do you mean it runs really rich with bllach smoke? Again it's likely the choke as it's job is to make the engine run richer when cold. It's adjustable. 55k is possible but the odometer only goes to 99,999 and them 'rolls over'. High wear items or ares that would indicate more than 55K would be the mat at the gas pedal where you heel rubs it. The brake pedal rubber. Driver's seat cover split and torn out, heater hoses or rad hoses replaced, non stock rad cap, home made wiring changes shouldn't be needed on a 'new' 55K truck. Alternator, regulator, fuel pump replaced. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 I would say then that you have a rare rust free cab and it must be saved :lol: Seriously, if the floors are solid, other than that typical wear area, you can replace all of the other stuff. I have the same pinholes in one of my fenders (replaced the other due to someone smashing it) and the rest of the truck is fairly rust free and solid. As far as the flooding goes, the needle is probably stuck from sitting. Tear the carb down and clean the gummy gas out of it and that should clear up the flooding. Quote Link to comment
KrazyWaldo Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 When it was running the high idle would still remain high. It was running extremely rich black smoke. After I went to try to start it a few days later no luck, and if you looked down into the carb, the fuel was puddled up in the bottom of what looked like the manifold. Float level would fill back up to the line. Here's some more pics Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Pull the spark plugs and inspect condition. Black/wet-running rich. White/light brown-lean. Adjust accordingly. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Flooding? I assume you go the stock fuel pump and also got the coil that was made for that year truck. As this is a point vehicle make sure you use a point coil and the ballast resisitor. Otherwise to much current will act like a bad condensor(popping) or bad carb. I think I would spray carb cleaner in the intake fuel line part to the carb. as redeyes says the sitting might cause the needle valve to stick (varnish)thus cause a little flooding. since he got a new distributor got to make sure its timed. correctly read everything on olddatsuns.com the tech section. these are EZ vehickes to keep running. I owuldnt spend to much money restoring it. there is some rust that has gone thru already just drive and fix what is bad. as it will be a fun relaiable truck to learn mechanics on. Quote Link to comment
mcordero8 Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Cool little truck, but I don't think it is a 1975 because I believe the 1975 did not have air vents on the cab and from looking at the pictures I think this one does. Is that correct Mike? Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Cool little truck, but I don't think it is a 1975 because I believe the 1975 did not have air vents on the cab and from looking at the pictures I think this one does. Is that correct Mike?1974 title. Says it in the first post. And yes it has cab vents Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Year on the title doesn't necessarily make it a '74, it may be though. It's important to know what year it is when buying parts for it. There are three things you can check. Inside the driver's door jam is a metal plate with the build date on it. It will have the year, but more important is the month as the model year for the 620 starts the previous summer. IF it is a '74 the build date will be between October '73 to August '74. IF a '75 the build date will be between September '74 and July '75. There may still be an emissions sticker on the under side of the hood. It will list the model year the emissions are designed for. The '74 will have an L18 engine. The '75 will have an L20B engine. There will be an engine tag on the driver's inner fender near the coil that lists the engine size. (make that four) The rad support on a '74 is straight across from fender to fender. The '75 is dented outward to fit around the front of the larger L20B rad. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 $800 bucks ? i would buy it ! its not in bad shape. Quote Link to comment
KrazyWaldo Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Well I get back in town tomorrow so I might go revisit her this weekend. See if we can't get her running.. All the preliminary trouble shooting has been done, spark plugs are black I had checked them out so its obvious it's rich. I just don't have a clue how to mess with the carb. I have some experience with carbs on my motorcycle. But I don't have the slightest clue on how to tune or adjust the one on the truck. I only found two adjustment screws on it. And a lot of springs and stuff on it. Its kind of hard to find info on it, but I have been lurking around this forum. Lots and lots of help. Appreciate much.. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 olddatsuns.com will give you a service manual to read. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Hardest part is getting the damn thing off. Just taking apart and putting together fixes many things. Gaskets dry out and sometimes the screws just need tightening. Cleaning everything is also good. Allow a morning of uninterrupted time, a large newspaper covered table and a few tools. A camera is good for figuring out how to get parts back together. Most thing don't go out of adjustment unless someone fiddled with it. The main things are getting the choke set up and working and adjusting the idle speed and idle mixture when running. Easy stuff. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 i would pour a little gas in the carb. If it fires off then most tliley its a carb adjustment/proplem Quote Link to comment
KrazyWaldo Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Tried pouring gas in it, no luck it wouldnt help. It would just smoke out of the carb.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Didn't you say in your first post that it ran, just a slow start? Also you said it had gas, only it would drain into the intake when shut off? Quote Link to comment
KrazyWaldo Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 It did turn on but a few days later it refused to start. So that's when we began trouble shooting it. Trying to figure out why it started acting up and not running. Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Just to compare, I bought my 77 with 48k orginal miles (farm truck) in near identical condition to that one but no external rust, for $425. That was 10 years ago though. Quote Link to comment
KrazyWaldo Posted November 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 . Seems to be a 1975, with the L20B. All the data plates in the bay are not readable. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 It's not a '74. U67 heads were never used on anything but L20B engines from '75 through '77. Says L20B on block and HL620.... a '74 would say PL620 Rad support has bump out for the rad... only on '75 and up trucks. Appears to say 10 '75 or October '75 making this a '76 Model Year. BUT have never seen it stamped this way before. Take a close look behind the 1075 stamp almost looks like 3 /75 or maybe 8 /75??? At the bottom is says Safety Standards In Effect In 8/75 The engine tag is on the driver's inner fender and will have the vehicle number on it. Is it legible enough to get the number? Sept '74 to July '75 ('74 model year) 000,001 to 090,000 Aug '75 to July '76 ('75 model year) 090,001 to 156761 Aug '77 to July '78 ('77 model year) 156,762 to 260,000 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 Mike your knowledge of Datsuns never ceases to amaze me. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 The engine tag is on the driver's inner fender and will have the vehicle number on it. Is it legible enough to get the number? Sept '74 to July '75 ('74 model year) 000,001 to 090,000 Aug '75 to July '76 ('75 model year) 090,001 to 156761 Aug '77 to July '78 ('77 model year) 156,762 to 260,000 Had to look this up in my reference 'book' Quote Link to comment
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