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68-73 510 tubed radiator support? Thinking about trying it, input appreciated.


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Does anyone have any ideas? or has anyone tried to make one?  For reference I am thinking something along the lines of what the drift/race scene commonly does to most cars, but specifically to the 87-97 nissan S chassis front end just only for the 510 radiator support.  I see relatively large pieces reproduced by futofab and a few other places nowadays, is there something especially difficult about reproducing this piece? or is it more likely a demand thing?

 

Rainy day accident last night makes that two times the radiator support has been mangled in the last 4 months.  I have been unbelievably lucky that both times there was no visible or apparent structural damage to the frame.  The cooling system, hood, and front valance took most of the punishment, as my bumpers were not installed.  The first accident I paid a buddies shop to do a very good, but not perfect job on a rack pull.  This time im looking to DIY or possibly upgrade to regain a little bit of pride and accomplishment.  

 

I have the space, ability, and aside from a $100 tube bender the equipment to make this happen, what I dont have is a straight front end to take measurements from or hopefully someone who is familiar with working with this piece and or with experience with cages.  Anyone in the South San Jose area with an L series have time to let me take measurements? Does anyone possibly have measurements from prior experience?  

 

I hope I dont seem demanding, I guess the multitude of questions is to help convince potential advisors that I am serious, and motivated.

 

any input is appreciated

 

have a good one!

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No idea what you mean so maybe post some pictures of an example. What's wrong with the stock rad support?

 

 

I believe he's talking about building a roll cage around the radiator so when he runs into stuff the next 2 times,, his radiator won't get bent.

 

 

Like this but ,,, these have a ton more room to fit them behind bumper material.

b2db10e9.jpg

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No idea what you mean so maybe post some pictures of an example. What's wrong with the stock rad support?

what bananahamuck said, but as a replacement for the stock radiator support not an addition.

 

Nothing will work very well if you keep running into other things

I deserved this......

 

I believe he's talking about building a roll cage around the radiator so when he runs into stuff the next 2 times,, his radiator won't get bent.

 

 

Like this but ,,, these have a ton more room to fit them behind bumper material.

sort of, but not exactly, I am talking about replacing the entire radiator support with a tubed unit because stock replacement radiator supports are nowhere to be found.  I dont need specific protection for the radiator per se, would simply just like the get/make a straight piece to replace the current mangled one.  

 

These accidents happened because my commute changed from 4 miles a day to 75.  IMO its just a numbers game as to when I got hit or hit something.

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The rad support needs to block air from going around it. The 510 does not have a frame so anything you add will just transfer the damage rarther back to what ever you mount it to. What you need is a bush bar and go slower.  

 

Speed (excess that is) shortens the time you have to react, things happen just too fast. Go the limit in perfect weather and adjust downward in the dark, rain, fog etc.

Agressive driving (constant lane changing to gain a few feet, following too close) increases your exposure to accidents. 

Constant brake use says you are not anticipating the traffic properly. Look up ahead and begin slowing well in advance by lifting off the gas. On a highway you should be able to go the 75 miles and never touch the brakes.

Situational awareness. Know exactly where all vehicles are around you, at all times.

 

Start your commute a half hour earlier so you have no need to speed or feel rushed. Enjoy the drive. Don't be annoyed by others. Drive in the slow lane.

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I definitely understand that I am responsible for my driving, if it seemed I was blaming my commute I apologize. I pushed it a bit too hard for the rain and I paid the price. Also, I have considered that a stronger radiator support puts the parts it's mounted too at a higher risk when an impact happens. I have considered using thick gauge aluminum as the main piece instead of tubes.

 

Moving forward, since I only carry liability insurance, my car repairs will come out of pocket. So, I'm curious if anyone else had any ideas on how to replace/reproduce a radiator support since they are impossible to find, and people selling them when you do find them, price them accordingly. Thought the forum might collectively be interested in such an endeavor, seeing as how once its finished theres a likelyhood it can be improved upon and possibly produced by a vendor.

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Hey bird, we do quite a few tube frame front ends. First off, if the frame rails are bent or tweaked, walk away. It will never be square. If you are going to do this, some of the areas that need thinking about are mounting the headlights, hood latches hood pins radatior mount. We also run a front splitter which helps aero but would also help your crashing problem.. Let me know if you need any help.

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Hey bird, we do quite a few tube frame front ends. First off, if the frame rails are bent or tweaked, walk away. It will never be square. If you are going to do this, some of the areas that need thinking about are mounting the headlights, hood latches hood pins radatior mount. We also run a front splitter which helps aero but would also help your crashing problem.. Let me know if you need any help.

 

Not completely true I know a few guys who did such damage and the body shop their 510s were at were able to jig it back to shape, reinforce and today you'd never know the difference driving or riding in it. I rearended a car parked in the middle of the road in a thick fog back around '76. Hit it with my front right and it just mashed it all back about 2'. The body shop actually fixed it and you couldn't even tell and it drove great until I was rearended in Compton Cali in `79 completely distroying my 510.

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Hey bird, we do quite a few tube frame front ends. First off, if the frame rails are bent or tweaked, walk away. It will never be square. If you are going to do this, some of the areas that need thinking about are mounting the headlights, hood latches hood pins radatior mount. We also run a front splitter which helps aero but would also help your crashing problem.. Let me know if you need any help.

Cool! thank you! Im 90 percent sure there was no damage to the frame rails, mind you thats from me eyeballing it.  I cant be 100 percent unless I do some measuring.  I have considered cutting out the metal where the lights mount, as there doesnt seem to be to much damage to them.  Then welding them directly to the tubes, and mounting the radiator on thick gauge aluminum tabs on the vertical tubes that would be closest to the radiator connecting the top and bottom of the entire unit.  Does this make sense?  I also have hood pins already because the first accident diminished my trust in the hood latch by itself.  Going with hood latches alone kind of bothers me for security reasons, and I currently dont have the dough to spend on higher price lockable latches. I have a good idea of where I want to put them from this: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/60958-my-first-510-m/?do=findComment&comment=1058883  OP Pmd me and one picture alone made me question if Im overthinking it a bit.

Not completely true I know a few guys who did such damage and the body shop their 510s were at were able to jig it back to shape, reinforce and today you'd never know the difference driving or riding in it. I rearended a car parked in the middle of the road in a thick fog back around '76. Hit it with my front right and it just mashed it all back about 2'. The body shop actually fixed it and you couldn't even tell and it drove great until I was rearended in Compton Cali in `79 completely distroying my 510.

I have seen some beautiful collision work done at the shop I had the original pull from.  I think they either werent familiar with datsun as a model, or more likely they hooked it up on price and did a minimalist job.  It doesnt really bother me either way.  I digress, I definitely think this is workable.

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