denmarkboy Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I've been needing to put this front end in for a while now but because of school I haven't gotten around to it. I need/want to replace all the bushings on it, but I don't know exactly what ones I'll need. Can anyone tell me which bushings I'll need and how many? i thought you had this installed a while ago , you should of hit me up we could of busted this out in a day . I pm'd a link a couple months ago with everything you would need , 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 i thought you had this installed a while ago , you should of hit me up we could of busted this out in a day . I pm'd a link a couple months ago with everything you would need , Oh Yeah I forgot about that thanks for reminding me as soon as I get the bushing I'll let you know if I need any help. 2 Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 can anyone tell me if I need to get new leaf springs or could I just get them them re-arched? and yes I know my exhaust is going the wrong way around the axle :rofl: I can get more pics if needed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 You can have them re-arched. If you do it is worth the extra money to pay a spring shop to pull and re-install them less chance of your truck leaning when you are done. I f you are not going to run the lowering blocks after the re-arch let the spring shop know to leave them out. tell the shop how high or low you want it. Give the blocks to someone that has their brakes adjusted by a shop! LOL 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 You can have them re-arched. If you do it is worth the extra money to pay a spring shop to pull and re-install them less chance of your truck leaning when you are done. I f you are not going to run the lowering blocks after the re-arch let the spring shop know to leave them out. tell the shop how high or low you want it. Give the blocks to someone that has their brakes adjusted by a shop! LOL Yeah it already leans a noticeable amount already. Does anyone know of any shops in the Milwaukie or Portland area I could get this done at? Also, can anyone tell me how much coolant/water I should have in my radiator? It looks low to me and I can't find anything on it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 manual transmission cooling system holds 8 1/2 US quarts automatic transmission cooling system holds 8 1/4 US quarts Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Yeah it already leans a noticeable amount already. Does anyone know of any shops in the Milwaukie or Portland area I could get this done at? Also, can anyone tell me how much coolant/water I should have in my radiator? It looks low to me and I can't find anything on it. I think Auto Safety Center in Eugene still does spring re-archin'. I'd ditch the blocks.....don't like them in general. Arch spring factoring in block thickness. Could always put it all back 2 stock and throw a load on it till it squats. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/4875592764.html How well would these wheels work on my truck? Would I need spacers? rolled fenders or fender flares I want to do one of the two so that's not a problem. Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Can somebody help me figure out why my truck is frying voltage regulators? I just replaced the voltage regulator last Thursday and I went out again. Has anyone elose had this problem? I think it might have something to do with my Kenwood stereo and speakers because it went out after I played music in my truck without it running. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 The stereo stuff is probably dropping battery voltage really low which causes the regulator to work really hard while the battery comes back up to a good charge. Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 The stereo stuff is probably dropping battery voltage really low which causes the regulator to work really hard while the battery comes back up to a good charge. So besides not playing music, is there a way to fix this problem? Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 You can do the saturn alternator upgrade and do away with all of the old school stuff. Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 You can do the saturn alternator upgrade and do away with all of the old school stuff. What all do I need for this swap? Alt and what else? I'd like to get started on this soon because this truck is my daily and don't really have anything else YET. Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 google it and ull find the thread about the swap Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 google it and ull find the thread about the swap Googled it and there is about 1,001 options on alt swaps. 240sx alt, aultima, saturn, etc. But no one said which was best. aultima has a 100amp alt but is time consuming and seems difficult but the saturn alt has 90amp and seems like less work. which one is best in my situation? Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 id go with s10 actually. I believe the saturn is externally regulated. All you need are two custom made brackets, home-made tensioner, a new belt and nuts and bolts. Do it once and do it good. Oh and while you're there, install a separate relay harness for your lights. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Googled it and there is about 1,001 options on alt swaps. 240sx alt, aultima, saturn, etc. But no one said which was best. aultima has a 100amp alt but is time consuming and seems difficult but the saturn alt has 90amp and seems like less work. which one is best in my situation? All the options listed are good. You will need to do the same modifications to run most of them. Using a Nissan alternator is good if you want to keep it in the family. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69-90-amp-bolt-in-alternator-on-an-l-series-motor/ Good read on the subject right there. ^ id go with s10 actually. I believe the saturn is externally regulated. All you need are two custom made brackets, home-made tensioner, a new belt and nuts and bolts. Do it once and do it good. Oh and while you're there, install a separate relay harness for your lights. The saturn alternator is internally regulated and only requires a custom adjuster and the 280ZX water inlet to clear the larger body. Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Thx Red for the correction Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 So I got a new voltage regulator AGAIN and either it doesn't work, it already fried, or my wire(s) is/are bad. I'm frustrated at this point. I even replaced the ground wires. Alternator is new, VR is new, battery cables are fairly new and same with the battery. I have no clue at this point; does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? What would fry the Voltage Regulator when I first start my truck after installing it? Battery was charged before hand. Quote Link to comment
abbylind Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Are you sure that alternator isnt internally regulated? Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Are you sure that alternator isnt internally regulated? Yes, I bought the alt from auto zone here's a link to the part on their website: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-import-alternator/nissan-datsun/620/1977/4-cylinders-2-0l-2bl-sohc/334250_29983_10259/ I might take it to one of my friends who works at a shop that specializes in this stuff, see what he says, but I think I need to run some continuity tests one the wires running to the voltage reg just to be sure. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Is that regulator grounded??? Won't work if not grounded. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Can somebody help me figure out why my truck is frying voltage regulators? I just replaced the voltage regulator last Thursday and I went out again. Has anyone elose had this problem? I think it might have something to do with my Kenwood stereo and speakers because it went out after I played music in my truck without it running. So I got a new voltage regulator AGAIN and either it doesn't work, it already fried, or my wire(s) is/are bad. I'm frustrated at this point. I even replaced the ground wires. Alternator is new, VR is new, battery cables are fairly new and same with the battery. I have no clue at this point; does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? What would fry the Voltage Regulator when I first start my truck after installing it? Battery was charged before hand. What makes you think the regulator is fried? What is it doing now that it wasn't doing earlier? Also what new alternator did you get? Is it possible that they just gave you an internal regulated alternator? They won't work with an external regulator. What alternator did you get??? Quote Link to comment
Datsun620longbed Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 What makes you think the regulator is fried? What is it doing now that it wasn't doing earlier? Also what new alternator did you get? Is it possible that they just gave you an internal regulated alternator? They won't work with an external regulator. What alternator did you get??? The Alt is a hitachi and on auto zones website in the link above it says in the notes about it that it's externally regulated. The last time I started my truck, the voltage regulator started smoking so that's what tells me it's fried. When my truck is running I only get 12.5? sometimes it says 13.?? but if I turn an electronic on, brake lights, head lights, etc. the multimeter reads it at 12.56-7 and drops slowly, also when it's running and I look at the brake light on the dash it dims and brightens. When you say the voltage regulator needs to be grounded, do you mean the ground wire from the negative battery cable has to be touching it or the voltage regulator has to be touching the body? because I put a rubber washer in between the voltage regulator and that ground wire, also I didn't have the washer there when the voltage regulator started smoking. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 The body should have a ground wire to it anyway. The external voltage regulator MUST be grounded either way. To the body or the battery. The alt should also have a Black ground wire going to the case body. The output from the alternator (it's an insulatdr terminal on the case) goes to the positive side of battery. Quote Link to comment
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