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Its only a 4door......


EastBay521

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been talking about it  for a while and i finally made it happen. i Bought my first 510. a 71 4door i found in Fresno. Originally the we made a deal for $1500 for the shell and a ka swap so i told him id be back in 2 weeks with the rest of the cash, but a week later he sent me a text saying he sold the swap so he settled for my $900. And not caring about the ka too much since i picked one up a month or two ago for a cool $100 so as of rite now the only things i really need are a tranny, mount, radiator, and the drive line to be shortened. Plans for the car are uncertain. originally it was going to be for my lady to daily but then we though of getting it running and flipping it since we got such a good deal but only time can tell....

 

I know us bastards love the oics so i took a few

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On the road

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loaded up

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on the way to one of a few Datslocos rehabilitation centers located in the central valley

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Touched down at the Datslocos stockton facility

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this car came from washington some knows these stickers

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some one was going to attempt a wire tuck i guess.........

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front xmember for ka

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no Idea. the dude went up to Washington and bought it and let it sit. I guess he was gona have his mechanic do the swap for him and the mechanic didn't want to touch the car so he let it sit. it would be nice to find the previous owner to get a little back ground on if it was ever registered here in cali. might try n get a new title if fees are too much

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A suggestion for the KA swap: make it a rear sump. You'd need to make a new oil pan as no one makes a rear sump KA pan. No need to flip the crossmember (although you already have it), your oil pan will be behind the crossmember, shielded somewhat from rocks and other debris, and it keeps things low key if that's what you're in to (unless you have an enormous intercooler). Just something to consider.

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A suggestion for the KA swap: make it a rear sump. You'd need to make a new oil pan as no one makes a rear sump KA pan. No need to flip the crossmember (although you already have it), your oil pan will be behind the crossmember, shielded somewhat from rocks and other debris, and it keeps things low key if that's what you're in to (unless you have an enormous intercooler). Just something to consider.

 

The 510's oil pan is deepest in the middle and toward the rear of the engine with the cross member curving away to the front to go around it and lave room for it. The curve in the 510 cross member can be sectioned and reversed, and then welder back in place with the curve to the rear for KA clearance.

 

If talking an S13 or S14 KA24E or DE engine, then yes, the oil pan is deepest at the very front and will not clear the stock 510 cross member. It's not strictly true that there are no rear sump KA oil pans. All truck KA24E and DE engines are rear sump to clear steering linkages at the front. In addition the truck engines do not have the bulky and heavy crank girdle that the car engines do.

 

Below are KA24E oil pans. Front is to the left. S13 at top and truck below. No you can't swap them because the truck pan will not clear the car KA's crank girdle, but you can see that if you have a truck engine to begin with you are further ahead. Truck KA engines are also much lighter. Yes you could slice the truck pan and deepen it to clear the girdle and you will probably have to move the deepest part forward to clear the 510's steering.

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Car KA24DE engines have totally different oil pans that the trucks. Nothing can be done there.

Truck KA24E and DE oil pans are almost identical.

 

 

not really worried my buddy has made a few heavy duty skid plates that protect really well. and looks pretty cool at night when it scrapes

 

It's not a matter of needing a skid plate. It's clearance to fit the car cross member. This is one of the most documented engine swaps and I know of no-one who used or needed a skid plate to do it.

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A proper KA swap would be no different than the stock oil pan for road clearance. Lowering the vehicle height would compromise the clearance and a skid pan lowers it even more. I would change how I drive to avoid hitting the road. It's, after all, unnecessary and could damage the welded cross member.... that the engine and the steering are bolted to.

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I understand why the crossmember has to be flipped, I just don't like the idea of the oil pan being in front of the crossmember, totally exposed to any potential oil pan crackers. A friend of mine is doing a rear sump DE for that exact reason. He could take the KA out and drop in an L, no muss no fuss. Could also use a stock style swaybar too. It's a little more work, yes, but it's cheap insurance in a way. It'd really suck to have something crack your oil pan, putting yourself and others in danger because you dumped oil all over the place.
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Not a very common problem on the highway but I suppose the risk goes up as you lower the ride height. Myself I think I would modify the pan to fit the car and not the other way round but never gave a thought to the pan being better protected.

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