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slave / fork issue frusterated


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I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder in my Datsun 720 2wd and after bleeding it I tighten it all up and push the clutch and the slave rod gets forced toward the clutch fork and pops all the fluid and then obviously stops woking. I noticed my clutch fork gets pushed further than the rod goes and I can move it back and forth with my fingers help please

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Does the new slave have the same length rod as the old one ? maybe the slave was not the problem and its the clutch that might be bad ?

So the clutch fork has no tension/ resistance on it so I know now it was most likely not the slave because everything is the same rod length and whatnot.

 

So if it is a problem with my clutch fork not having pressure on it does that mean it is a issue inside the housing? If so how and what should I do to check it

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"So if it is a problem with my clutch fork not having pressure on it does that mean it is a issue inside the housing? If so how and what should I do to check it"

 

Good possibility you have a problem in side.  Your choice, pull the engine, and leave the transmission in the truck, pull the transmission, and leave the engine in place, or pull both together, and then tale the two apart, and look at it.

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I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder in my Datsun 720 2wd and after bleeding it I tighten it all up and push the clutch and the slave rod gets forced toward the clutch fork and pops all the fluid and then obviously stops woking. I noticed my clutch fork gets pushed further than the rod goes and I can move it back and forth with my fingers help please

 

More background info needed. What happened recently that you replaced the clutch slave???????

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The fork looks like it's too far back in the hole to start with.  It should be more straight out to begin with.  That's about where it should end up when pushed.  I'd be looking at the fork and throwout bearing to see if they're hung up.  Is the rear up on jack stands?  You might start the engine and see if it will go in gear.......don't push the clutch pedal.  If it slips into gear with the motor running, then your clutch is disengaged......something's holding it in. 

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The fork looks like it's too far back in the hole to start with.  It should be more straight out to begin with.  That's about where it should end up when pushed.  I'd be looking at the fork and throwout bearing to see if they're hung up.  Is the rear up on jack stands?  You might start the engine and see if it will go in gear.......don't push the clutch pedal.  If it slips into gear with the motor running, then your clutch is disengaged......something's holding it in. 

 

I thought the same thing, that's why I asked if the tranny had been just been put in, if nothing is broken, it must have the wrong collar in it.

He might be able to make a longer rod, but it is not a for sure cure, need to know if the tranny has been out.

1I1GMLE.jpg

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My money is on either the transmission was changed and the wrong collar was used, or something destroyed it's self inside the bellhousing.

I just went out and pulled and twisted on a transmission/clutch arm I have connected to a diesel engine, I could not get it off the ball because the trans. case was in the way, pulled fairly hard too, I could not dislodge the arm from the throwout bearing collar either, as the hole for the clutch arm is not big enough to remove the arm from the ball, it binds.

DSCN3640.JPG

I did not use vice grips though, but it would seem like if the engine/transmission were never removed, one would not be down there with vice grips pulling/twisting on that arm.

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