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Sputter Putt.... fuel issues?


StewyN

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Sounds like timing to me.  The "under a load" is what keys me off.  Can you start off in 2nd or 3rd and get the sputter?  Then it is definitely timing.

Fuel could be an issue, and that stock carb has seen many days on this earth.  Might be something to look into soon.

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Timing is 3 degrees.

 

Two things....

 

I would check the hot valve lash at 0.013". A tight valve does not close properly and under load it can sneak back into the intake and pop.

 

Check the cap, rotor and plug wires. There are 8 plug wires on a tiny cap with very little space between them. Check the underside for carbon tracking, cracks, moisture. Under load it takes more voltage to fire a plug and it will try to find an easier path to ground... maybe another wire. If the wires cap and rotor are unknown just replace them.

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Replace the first fuse on the far right LEFT in the fuse box. (closest to the driver's door) The coil high tension leads are swapped, probably by accident but the intakes are wired directly from the ignition switch while the exhaust are powered from the fuse box. It will run just fine reversed as the coils fire together at the same time. Likely the fuse is blown.

 

The engine is timed to run with both coils firing. If one is not working the engine will be running severely retarded and lack power and give crappy mileage.

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Check power to the positive side of coil, if fuse is good should be about 12 volts. If there is power to the coil, briefly ground the negative side and you should get a spark. If there is spark the coil is good and possibly the wire to the distributor is broken or loose, or the ignition module has failed. No spark then the coil is bad.

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Key on.

Is there power to the exhaust coil + terminal?

If NO, then find out why and fix this. Power should be supplied by the first fuse on the exterme left side of the fuse box, sorry I guess I did say right my bad
If YES, briefly ground the - negative coil terminal and release. Coil should spark. A length of wire touched to the battery negative post or the engine block and to the negative terminal of the coil will work. When removed, the coil should spark.


NO spark, the coil is bad.
YES there is spark, wiring between coil negative and the distributor is broken or loose, or the ignition module in the distributor is bad.

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Check your wiring harness to the distributor. Does it have a three wire harness with a separate light or White color wire with it's own plug, like this...
See the Black plug with the White wire?
Z244wiredistributorcalisingleordualplugf

If it does, unplug the single White wire and try the coils again.

 

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I had the same problem ...It's not the carb I had the wires crossed at the dizzy!

 

Hook up a timing light like you where going to time it ....hit the button get the strobe going if the light goes out when the engine sputters

its a ignition problem. I did that and sure enough the light went out every time the motor sputtered .So I started looking and noticed the wires where backassward.

 

I so thought it was the Carb...I took the weber apart 7 times thinking there was something stuck in it!

 

I even dropped the tank and cleaned it!

 

Needless to say I got schooled this week:)

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so come to find out its only firing on the exhaust coil, does this just mean the intake coil is bad or?

 

 

i would do the carb swap first and see what happens

 

A carb swap cannot possibly fix an ignition problem, except to add more problems..

 

 

No mine has a single wire that hooks to the distributor itself and a 4 wire plug red, white, blue, and black. no extras with eyelets like in the pic

 

Later models may have incorporated the white wire into the main harness. There is a spark shut off function where grounding the white wire turns off the exhaust coil. Maybe the vacuum switch that controls it is stuck on, maybe the wire is pinched and grounded...?  Try and disconnect it. This is the last easy cheap check, if this does not allow the coil to work then the module in the distributor is most likely bad.

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That works too.

 

If my questions and answers dragged this out, I was diagnosing a problem from a distance. Those modules are well over $300 at the dealer. Auto supply are usually about half that maybe less. It's in everyone's interest to exhaust all possible (easy and cheap) fixes first, is all. 

 

Seen some, with a charging problem so they change the alternator (usually a totally inferior made in China unit) and it doesn't work, so they change the battery, doesn't work. Then the ignition switch. They come here and its a $7 fusible link but it still won't charge because the new alternator is a piece of shit and they turned in their perfectly good one for the core. Shit gets expensive. 

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