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Are converting to disk brakes worth it


slipknot98

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Disc brakes are pushed for the same reason rack and pinion steering, and front wheel drive is pushed.

 

They are cheaper to manufacture.

 

Having said that, yes, in high performance applications, disk brakes are better that drum brakes.  But that advantage is with a factory build complete brake system.

From the factory, everything is matched together.  The front and rear brake bias, the master cylinder is matched to the wheel cylinders, load sensors, or proportioning valves are set up correctly.

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I don't know guys "the maintenance is the same" LOL! Nobody has mentioned the fact that drums SUCK When driving in the rain!

 

Fronts

I would rather change pads that shoes... anytime. Disc brakes don't have adjusters or automatic adjusters, springs, or anti rattle springs. No leading/trailing shoes. Just simpler. That said, drum brakes are close to disc for stopping (if maintained) but just how do you compare apples to oranges anyway???

 

Rears

Rears do little of the stopping in a vehicle with the fronts doing most. Here anything will do the job, so rear disc are more of a "look what I did" sort of thing. If you do it, do it for the easy and minimal maintainance. You would have to race your car to heat the rear drums up significantly enough to warrant discs.  

 

Drum brake shoes have come a long way since the 60s and earlier. I had an old '64 Dodge and yes the brakes grabbed in the rain, but I noticed this happened only when they were cold and damp. Drive half a block with the brakes on to warm them and no problems. I haven't noticed drum brakes today doing this.

 

I find that disc brakes, even just the fronts, are easier to modulate when stopping hard. Drum brakes lock up easier it seems. Disc brakes you can stand on them hard and you just stop. If you get lock up it is usually when close to stopped and you can let up slightly to release them. Drums you have to let all the way up and re-apply wasting distance and likely locking them repeatedly. This has been my experience. 

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Z-train how is anything i have said ignorant?1) Because i am not as old as most of you guys on here and you think i don't know shit about what Im saying? 2)FYI my father has been a mechanic and a tow truck driver for over 25 years, and my grandfather has been the same for over 50 years. 3)I can tell you countless stories about wrecks that were caused by faulty drums, either they failed to stop, they may have locked up, or even the most common "i hit my brakes an they jerked me into oncoming traffic". 4)No Im not saying disks cannot fail because they can i have had it happen to me before, but its not as common. Im sorry for my ignorance of thinking that disks are more modern technology and are less likely to fail than drums! 5)The man asked for an "OPINION" and i gave him mine sorry it wasn't what you were looking for, 6)maybe i should have grown up in a time when drums were in there prime then maybe i would feel differently!

You really need top brush up on reading comprehension.

 

1)Yes. And you have ZERO experience.

2)Stories.BFD.

3)See above.

4)No-one is talking about failure.(comprehension thing again)

5)I'm not looking for anything. This is public board and when someone puts up patently false information-I counter it. Simple.

6)And based from the OP's last post, he's looking for advice-not opinion.

 

And no place did I say drums were superior to Disc.

 

Car buyers actually option-deleted disc in favor of drum brakes.But you wouldn't know that.Or why.

 

Edit:DatsunMike has it right above.

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The answer is yes it is worth it.. If you like adjusting the front drums every 2500 miles ,, more power to ya,, but i go to Mcdonalds not because of their outstanding cuisine but for the convenience of not having to fuck with making my own lunch every day ,, same with my front brakes.

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You really need top brush up on reading comprehension.

 

1)Yes. And you have ZERO experience.

2)Stories.BFD.

3)See above.

4)No-one is talking about failure.(comprehension thing again)

5)I'm not looking for anything. This is public board and when someone puts up patently false information-I counter it. Simple.

6)And based from the OP's last post, he's looking for advice-not opinion.

Damn Z, well played. Your right i have no experience, Im surprised any of the vehicles I've built are still on the road today. Maybe i should find another hobby, like bird watching i here that's pretty fun!

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I think later '83 and up 720 spindle knuckle, calipers and hubs with vented rotors will mount onto the 620. Doubt it will stop any faster but it will keep stopping for longer than the solid rotor and smaller caliper. As it is heavier duty and pads larger they will wear longer on the lighter 620.

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Thanks for the info. I will definitely look into that when I do my swap

If you have a balljoint 620, and your going to upgrade, buy the 86 720 hardware from the upper balljoint to the lower balljoint, it will bolt right into you balljoint 620, instant upgrade, and your stock 620 rims will bolt right on without issues, if they won't because of the hub, just use your 620 hub, the 86 rotors will bolt right to the 620 hub.

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