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rebuilding a Weber 32/36 dgv


edekalil

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How much trouble is it to rebuild a Weber 32/36 dgv carb. I have two carbs and kits and want to use them on two of my cars. Just never rebuilt one of these. Any advice of what to be careful with or any tricks would be nice to know. As well I believe I will need to remove the throttle part that connects to the stock linkedge from a stock carb. How does that crazy nut come loose?

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These have got to be the easiest carbs on the planet to rebuild. Just blow it apart and verify that all orofices are clear (by blowing air), if they are not, clean out with a piece of wire and some carb cleaner. Make sure to keep all jets and such in order so they go back together in the proper places. Check the accelerator pump diaphragm for tears. Just don't remove the throttle plates or shafts. They generally don't need removal and can be troublesome to get reinstalled properly. Be sure to lube up the linkage with WD40 and the accelerator pump actuator with a dab of white lithium grease.

 

One problem area on the DGV is the auxilliary venturis. If they are loose in the carb body, you can make shims out of a beer can to tighten them up.

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Also, do not over tighten the needle and seat. They can break off pretty easily.

 

The last thing is to make sure the float is set. By holding the carb lid upside down, the installed float should rest perfectly horizontal. Adjust by bending the tab at the needle jet.

 

There are a lot of mods you can do to these carbs, depending on motor size, cam and intended use.

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I dunno as I gave my used junkyard Weber 32/36 carb to the wife's uncle to do. He used to be a mechanic before retiring and is a carb guru. He rebuilds Holley and Weber carbs as a hobby for a bunch of the local short circle track racers. He gutted mine and replaced gaskets, diaphragms, float bowls, new elec. choke, and jets, and the parts only totaled a little over $50. Runs like a dream.

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