datzenmike Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 It's all intake, throttle cable, high pressure fuel pump and ECU wiring. Late Z22Es had different rods and pistons. Doesn't make more power just better running than a carb. Don't forget this is really old tech EFI and not suitable for boosting. Has a regular EI dizzy and not CAS, very few 'sensors'. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 It's all intake, throttle cable, high pressure fuel pump and ECU wiring. Late Z22Es had different rods and pistons. Doesn't make more power just better running than a carb. Don't forget this is really old tech EFI and not suitable for boosting. Has a regular EI dizzy and not CAS, very few 'sensors'. "Boosting" is refered to for turboing? What about built without turbo? Offroad use and driveabilty? If I got a ecu intake + wiring harness, high pressure fuel pump it would be do able? The sensors it does have/need I assume are on the block/intake/head? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 There is a cylinder temp sender near the #1 spark plug that won't be on the Z22E (carb) engine. This tells the ECU when the engine is cold and when warmed up. I don't know how you will get around this without swapping the head also. Older 200sx with the Z20 engine just used the water temp but the head is more accurate. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 There is a cylinder temp sender near the #1 spark plug that won't be on the Z22E (carb) engine. This tells the ECU when the engine is cold and when warmed up. I don't know how you will get around this without swapping the head also. Older 200sx with the Z20 engine just used the water temp but the head is more accurate.Instead of having to swap the whole head plus the wiring wouldnt it be easier to drop the z22e motor in then just do the wiring which wouldnt be to hard to tap into a 720 harness? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Yes, if the engine is good. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yes, if the engine is good.Okay. A weber 32/36 I dont think I have a idle cut off solenoid. Is it worth the money to have one? It will stop the dieseling Ive been dealing with from what I've been reading. Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Slowly killing it in 1st is what I did.. I don't even have to now and I still find myself doing it.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 If automatic shut off in drive then place in park. Standard, just hold foot brake on in third or forth and lift clutch slightly to load the engine... turn ignition off. Engine will stall quickly. Only when stopped, fully lift clutch pedal or car will jump. Four or five times and you'll perfect this. It's easy. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 If automatic shut off in drive then place in park. Standard, just hold foot brake on in third or forth and lift clutch slightly to load the engine... turn ignition off. Engine will stall quickly. Only when stopped, fully lift clutch pedal or car will jump. Four or five times and you'll perfect this. It's easy. thats how I've been doing it. Just wondering if it's worth it to by it. The dieseling is getting old. Nice to know let people deal with it. Does it hurt the engine Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Idle changes when you "pump" the brakes? If so, you have a bad brake booster. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Idle changes when you "pump" the brakes? If so, you have a bad brake booster.Yes sir. If I slam them to the floor or pump the pedal the rpms change by maybe 50-100rpm Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 That could be the extra effort to spin the alternator to power the brake lights. Dieseling is not good for any engine and should be avoided. It is aggravated by.. Too hot a range of plugs Idle speed too high Choke staying on or part on or carb flooding Poor octane gas Too high a compression for the fuel used Engine running too hot Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 That could be the extra effort to spin the alternator to power the brake lights.Now that I think about it... my volt gauge likes to jump around lots and when it goes to idle the heater/ headlights dim a little. Battery is only a year old the alternator is possibly on its way out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 This is normal. They are only 50/60 amp output. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Dieseling is not good for any engine and should be avoided. It is aggravated by.. Too hot a range of plugs Idle speed too high Choke staying on or part on or carb flooding Poor octane gas Too high a compression for the fuel used Engine running too hot I think my engine might be running to hot/flooding. I did use preimum and it seemed to sound better but it still dieseled not as often. Now I put regular ($20 full tank give or take) almost every time I shut it off it diesels in some way short or long. What size jets does every one use for the weber 32/36? I just ordered a kit for a nissan z22/z24. Ill have to find the paperwork. Im looking into purchasing a wideband once I get some money together I really want this one. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php But maybe this one? http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php I heard that one of them needs a all time power wire or something like that? I only installed a tachometer and a oil pressure gauge. Never something that wasn't already there I can get the first one for like 170 from the autoparts store. Probably cheaper online but I like the comfort of the store for if I have any problems. Recommendations on which one to go with? Quote Link to comment
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