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Z22 engine build?


Thisolddatsun

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That is the cap.

 

Dieseling can be many things. Timing isn't really one but it can be from....

 

Idle too high.

Idle cut solenoid removed.

Carb flooding

Choke part on, doesn't shut off.

Wrong heat range plugs.

what is a good idle for the z20? My idle sitd around 1k when warm with the choke off. when the choke is on it idles around 1-2k maybe higher. If i drive it before it starts to get warm it likes to die. I have a weber 32/36 and have it set at the 1 1/2 turn out.
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If you can't get it to idle below1,000 RPMs without it stalling, likely the idle cut solenoid is non working. The idle cut allows gas to the idle circuit with the ignition in the on position and shuts off fuel when the key is turned off, killing the engine and preventing dieseling.

 

Turn the ignition switch on off on off.... you should hear a soft clicking sound from the carb.

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If you can't get it to idle below1,000 RPMs without it stalling, likely the idle cut solenoid is non working. The idle cut allows gas to the idle circuit with the ignition in the on position and shuts off fuel when the key is turned off, killing the engine and preventing dieseling.

 

Turn the ignition switch on off on off.... you should hear a soft clicking sound from the carb.

i have never heard anything come from the carb. I can hear my fuel pump go and when I tap the gas before I turn it over the choke closes. It will idle below 1000rpms until I press my breaks. Then it bogs down a little if I pump them it bogs down more. Sometimes itll stall out but not every time.
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EFI is a godsend! There is a book called HOW TO TUNE AND MODIFY ELECTRONIC ENGINE MANEGMENT SYSTEMS that is the bomb diggity for this. You can even build your own EFI system. Learn engine theory really well and understand electronics and system relations, that is the key to EFI combined with advanced electronics skills.

 

To learn EFI just understand how everything is linked essentially. Be good with diagnostics. EFI is such a power adder and economy saver, I've build a few Chevy 350's , 194's , 3800's and countless Mopar blocks, EFI is amazing.

Learn it , it's cool and will help you ! :)

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EFI is a godsend! There is a book called HOW TO TUNE AND MODIFY ELECTRONIC ENGINE MANEGMENT SYSTEMS that is the bomb diggity for this. You can even build your own EFI system. Learn engine theory really well and understand electronics and system relations, that is the key to EFI combined with advanced electronics skills.

 

To learn EFI just understand how everything is linked essentially. Be good with diagnostics. EFI is such a power adder and economy saver, I've build a few Chevy 350's , 194's , 3800's and countless Mopar blocks, EFI is amazing.

Learn it , it's cool and will help you ! :)

wouldn't mind going efi when I switch to a v6. But I'll have to check that book out. Never hurts to have some night time reading and essentially building my own wiring harness would be pretty sweet would allow me to drive at any angle. But money permits my year old weber 32/36. First major upgrade this old truck got due to the stock Hitachi/god knows what carb I rebuilt from like 3 or 4 different dead carbs from toyota to nissan and god knows what. The truck ran and drove. Had to poke the choke closed every day in the morning and after school to start it up and itd stall at random and had a ridiculously high idle that was caused because the linkage wouldn't return all the way. Brand new out of the box 300 dollars. So Im gunna try and roll with it till I swap motors or to efi.

 

Is their a way to adapt a z24i efi/tbi ecu and all to a z22? Theres not a whole lot of differences from what I understand. I just dont want to get all the vaccume lines. I like my 1 vaccume advance line and I dont have emissions where I live. Or what would be a close to stock efi set up?

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It will idle below 1000rpms until I press my breaks. Then it bogs down a little if I pump them it bogs down more. Sometimes itll stall out but not every time.

 

Sounds like the brake booster might be the problem. See if the following happens...

 

Pump brake several times to exhaust any residual vacuum.

Apply brake with foot and hold down.

Start engine.

Normally, the pedal should drop slightly as vacuum builds.

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Sounds like the brake booster might be the problem. See if the following happens...

 

Pump brake several times to exhaust any residual vacuum.

Apply brake with foot and hold down.

Start engine.

Normally, the pedal should drop slightly as vacuum builds.

It does that i always wondered why it does that
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Engine vacuum is roughly 17 pounds of vacuum per sq in. There is a diaphragm inside the booster with vacuum on both sides and the master cylinder connected to it. When you step on the pedal a small air leak bleeds vacuum out of one side and the diaphragm moves away from it pushing the master with it.

 

Now if the diaphragm was 9" across that's 63 sq in of surface and with a possible 18 inches of vacuum tha'st over 1,100 pounds of pressure exerted on the master cylinder!!!! Far and above the couple of hundred you could possibly exert in a panic.

 

Naturally this is  the high side of the scale but as the diaphragm moves forward the air bleed is lessened or the braking effort would just run away untill full lock up. The pedal regulates the amount of power assist needed. If the brake booster fails, the effort to brake increases, but still will work.

 

 

 

 

If your idle degrades when the brake is applied remove the hose from the manifold and plug the fitting and try it. If this fixes the problem it can be inferred that somewhere between the manifold and the booster there is a problem.

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Engine vacuum is roughly 17 pounds of vacuum per sq in. There is a diaphragm inside the booster with vacuum on both sides and the master cylinder connected to it. When you step on the pedal a small air leak bleeds vacuum out of one side and the diaphragm moves away from it pushing the master with it.

 

Now if the diaphragm was 9" across that's 63 sq in of surface and with a possible 18 inches of vacuum tha'st over 1,100 pounds of pressure exerted on the master cylinder!!!! Far and above the couple of hundred you could possibly exert in a panic.

 

Naturally this is the high side of the scale but as the diaphragm moves forward the air bleed is lessened or the braking effort would just run away untill full lock up. The pedal regulates the amount of power assist needed. If the brake booster fails, the effort to brake increases, but still will work.

 

 

 

 

If your idle degrades when the brake is applied remove the hose from the manifold and plug the fitting and try it. If this fixes the problem it can be inferred that somewhere between the manifold and the booster there is a problem.

On the intake? Is that the big one that goes over the valve cover? I can remove and plug that?!

 

2015-01-30-22-57-03_zps4fu6niu8.png

This hose?

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You need that hose, it makes the power brakes work, if it wasn't there, you would likely have to press twice as hard to stop the truck, that shit gets old real quick.

If you want to know how hard it would be to stop itt without it, pull it off the booster, plug the line with something so it don't leak, then take it for a test drive, leave yourself plenty of room to stop till you are used to it.

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You need that hose, it makes the power brakes work, if it wasn't there, you would likely have to press twice as hard to stop the truck, that shit gets old real quick.

If you want to know how hard it would be to stop itt without it, pull it off the booster, plug the line with something so it don't leak, then take it for a test drive, leave yourself plenty of room to stop till you are used to it.

Just got confused as to which hose he was referring to.
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If your idle degrades when the brake is applied remove the hose from the manifold and plug the fitting and try it. If this fixes the problem it can be inferred that somewhere between the manifold and the booster there is a problem.

 

Yes, you absolutely need this for proper brakes.

 

I'm suggesting you try to eliminate the brake booster as the cause of the engine stalling when you use the brakes. Disconnect and plug the intake side hose. Try the brakes and see if it still stalls. You don't have to drive around to try this. I suspect there is a leek inside the booster.

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Yes, you absolutely need this for proper brakes.

 

I'm suggesting you try to eliminate the brake booster as the cause of the engine stalling when you use the brakes. Disconnect and plug the intake side hose. Try the brakes and see if it still stalls. You don't have to drive around to try this. I suspect there is a leek inside the booster.

Alright. Thanks for the help. I'll check it out later and get back to you guys
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That is the cap.

 

Dieseling can be many things. Timing isn't really one but it can be from....

 

Idle too high.

Idle cut solenoid removed.

Carb flooding

Choke part on, doesn't shut off.

Wrong heat range plugs.

My Idle sits just under 1,000

Whats the right heat range?

Also what is a easy to use timing light that's cheap?

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How hard is it to do a z22 to z22E? It can't be to much? Could I rebuild a z22 to work with the z22 intake/injection?

Would it just be better to do the whole engine swap to z22E and rebuild that? I know its mostly internal with the exception of the efi it would mainly just be the ecu and wiring right?

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