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non engaging clutch


PinoyDat210

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I finally have my 210 running and healthy after the rebuild, but I can't seem to engage the clutch while engine running, does anyone know why?? Let me give you some more info, New clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing I did it my self followed the book and took it apart and back together the same way(clutch and plate only go on 1 way. New braided clutch line as well. At first I didn't have much pedal pressure but it returned so I bled the system a little bit, it was a little bit better, bled it a few more not much luck adjusted the slave cylinder(which I can see it engaging the fork when the pedal is depressed) can someone give me a rundown on the procedure and details? so I can make sure what I did was correct as well. I have a little play, I can see the fork and pedal actuating together, their is pressure and return. Shifts fine into gear while engine off, but seems like clutch isn't grabbing feeling idk exactly. It has been bled like a mofo no air, no leaks. Any ideas fellows??? Thanks

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Can you confirm what you mean by not being able to engage the clutch:

A ) You depress the clutch pedal and the rear wheels are still driven (clutch engaged all times)

B )Clutch slips and the rear wheels are not driven regardless of clutch pedal position (clutch never engages).

 

1) I know you said that the clutch only goes 1 way but maybe you can you confirm the clutch disk was not installed backwards (sometimes they are labeled flywheel side)

Here is a picture of a clutch installed backwards - springs rubbed flywheel bolts

Flywheel.jpg

 

2) Can you confirm the throw-out bearing was the same depth (I know L-series engines have several different length sleeves but don't know about 210's)

8392.jpg

3) Confirm the new bearing was not installed backwards on the sleeve:

0809clt_19_z+how_to_diagnose_your_own_cl

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I finally have my 210 running and healthy after the rebuild, but I can't seem to engage the clutch while engine running, does anyone know why?? Let me give you some more info, New clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing I did it my self followed the book and took it apart and back together the same way(clutch and plate only go on 1 way. New braided clutch line as well. At first I didn't have much pedal pressure but it returned so I bled the system a little bit, it was a little bit better, bled it a few more not much luck adjusted the slave cylinder(which I can see it engaging the fork when the pedal is depressed) can someone give me a rundown on the procedure and details? so I can make sure what I did was correct as well. I have a little play, I can see the fork and pedal actuating together, their is pressure and return. Shifts fine into gear while engine off, but seems like clutch isn't grabbing feeling idk exactly. It has been bled like a mofo no air, no leaks. Any ideas fellows??? Thanks

 

 

To be clear engage the clutch means to lift the peddle and drive away. Disengage is to depress the peddle and disconnect the engine from the transmission. 

 

 

Now if you cannot engage the clutch then the pressure plate is not gripping the clutch disc and it's like the peddle is down all the time. This could be caused by a too long release bearing collar.

 

 

If you mean 'I can't depress the clutch peddle and put in gear with the engine running' then this can be one of two things.

 

1/ There is still air in the clutch hydraulic system or...

 

2/ The replaced release bearing collar is too short and does not reach the pressure plate diaphragm fingers, or does not depress them far enough.

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First off thanks for the input! The clutch would only sit and fit one way when installed at least so I thought, I matched it the same way I removed, bearing I am almost 99% sure it was correctly installed and correct product came in clutch kit, only one fits all a-series transmission. When I depress the pedal to the floor while car running it won't let me go into gear it's hard catches. I could throw it in but don't want to brake it obviously haha. I also matched the bearing to old removed one. Pressure plate if anything would be upside down or something I would think. Literally everything only seemed to fit one way. I am just really confused.

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It's ok. So clutch not releasing so you can place in gear.

 

Measure the slave push rod travel. It should be 1.18" or reasonably close to this.

 

Is it possible the clutch arm was bumped off it's pivot ball inside the bell housing? Maybe look in past the rubber dust boot with a flashlight.

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So I bled the system a few more, pumped it like a crazy person, starting to feel some more pressure,adjusted the slave rod(im not sure the proper procedure how to measure, can someone fill me in) datsun 1200.com and Haynes is too vague to educate my inexperience) to no avail. Still will not disengage clutch in any gear it starts to go into reverse but it grinds so I backed out. I will get a flash light up into the bish later, when my son gives me some time.how much pressure should a normal pedal feel like? Still really confused, hopefully I won't have to drop the tranny.. double thanks soon far fellow ratsuners!

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Keep in mind that running the master cylinder low on fluid and pumping the pedal vigirusly for a while will aerate the fluid.  It could take a bit of time and patience to get all the air bubbles out.

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Hahaha due to my inexperience the slave rod wasn't adjusted far enough back so I wasn't putting any pressure on the clutch that's why the pedal felt a little soft. I adjusted it and took it for a drive, needs a little tuning but I'm on the road! Happy to be back in my dat to again. Thank you to everyone for their input!

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