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Replacing my front end on my 77'


ADavis_620

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Okay so i have a 77 620 and i was quoted $1050 to have my tie rod ends, inner and outer tie rod assembly, ball joints lower and upper on both sides, center link and tie rod adjusting sleeve done. I think that's too much money so i'm gonna do it myself. So would there be anything else you guys/gals can think of that ill need or i should do since im already down there. I haven't ordered anything yet i get paid Friday. I have a 78 front end i think because i was told 77 doesn't have ball joints but mine does and the manufactured plate says 2/77. Thanks for the help and any advice is appreciated.  

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2/77 build date would be a '77. (not unheard of to swap cabs)  If it has drum brakes on the front it's a '77.

 

The steering parts are all ball joint but the '77 has king pins instead of upper and lower control arms with ball joints.

its 77' but i have disc in front. so maybe P.O did a swap. anyways got paid so im gonna start ordering parts. also looks like my alternator needs to be replace because i have brand new battery and my chg light is blinking nice and bright so i tested it and been told by several different answers. Maybe i have low output

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its 77' but i have disc in front. so maybe P.O did a swap. anyways got paid so im gonna start ordering parts. also looks like my alternator needs to be replace because i have brand new battery and my chg light is blinking nice and bright so i tested it and been told by several different answers. Maybe i have low output

 

Your papers may be for a '77, but the frame number won't match it. If the cab was swapped to a later frame this should have been noted and taken care of and hopefully the original guy owned both frames in the clear. The problem could be that it's stolen or scrapped or salvaged. Unlikely anyone will check but..... If you do a lot of work on it and the 'other' owner shows up you're screwed two ways..... just sayin'. 

 

The 620 frame number is stamped on the top of the right hand (pass side) frame rail just forward of the motor mount and behind the alternator. You could do a search to see if stolen?

 

 

 

My '78 body was destroyed in a stolen roll over. I got a '74 cab and swapped it on but had the sense to swap the engine and door tags. The frame number is the last word in what year the truck is.

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Depends on your skill set and experience. Sometimes it costs less in the long run to let a shop do certain things.

My skill set is zero and experience is none. I want to learn so bad though and have all the passion to do so. honestly all the experience i have is like spark plugs, oil changes and just like real basic stuff. Only thing i've done so far is replace master cylinder. 

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True KR but, He who would learn to fly one day must first learn to stand and walk and run and climb and dance; one cannot fly into flying.

Meaning if he can find a person, older mechanic next door type to help him with some of the work, great. Take your time and do the work

by the book no matter how long it takes. Getting in there and getting your hands dirty is a great teacher but I have seen people with little 

knowledge and big ambitions cause more harm than good when working on potential safety hazards like front end and steering linkage

or brakes. There is nothing like loosing the ability to steer going into a corner because a cotter pin wasn't secured. 

 

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True KR but, He who would learn to fly one day must first learn to stand and walk and run and climb and dance; one cannot fly into flying.

Meaning if he can find a person, older mechanic next door type to help him with some of the work, great. Take your time and do the work

by the book no matter how long it takes. Getting in there and getting your hands dirty is a great teacher but I have seen people with little 

knowledge and big ambitions cause more harm than good when working on potential safety hazards like front end and steering linkage

or brakes. There is nothing like loosing the ability to steer going into a corner because a cotter pin wasn't secured. 

story of my first bike that has been down for 2+ years

 

find a fsm and someone who knows what you're doing to help guide you along. you can still do the work yourself just have someone there to watch and help occasionally 

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Hopefully i can get it done in one day because it's my daily. Got to be able to drive to work. I'll look more into it and go from there.

You have a 77 with balljoints, easy to do with the proper tools, has to be aligned when finished, lots of other stuff to check though, check the tension rod bushings, upper spindle bushings, idler arm.

I live in the Cascade Park area in Vancouver, what area you live in, I might be able to look at it over the next couple days if I knew where to go.

BTW, I don't surf the 620 section very often, you may have to PM me for a reasonable response time.

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Your papers may be for a '77, but the frame number won't match it. If the cab was swapped to a later frame this should have been noted and taken care of and hopefully the original guy owned both frames in the clear. The problem could be that it's stolen or scrapped or salvaged. Unlikely anyone will check but..... If you do a lot of work on it and the 'other' owner shows up you're screwed two ways..... just sayin'. 

 

The 620 frame number is stamped on the top of the right hand (pass side) frame rail just forward of the motor mount and behind the alternator. You could do a search to see if stolen?

 

 

 

My '78 body was destroyed in a stolen roll over. I got a '74 cab and swapped it on but had the sense to swap the engine and door tags. The frame number is the last word in what year the truck is.

so i checked with wayno on my datsun and frame and cab numbers match so its a 77 frame, 77 cab registered as a 77 datsun but has ball joints and disc.....

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I looked at the truck, as far as I could tell, this truck has always been a balljoint/disc brake truck, the upper control arm mount was tilted properly for a balljoint upper control arm, unlike the kingpin truck which the UCA mount is 90 degrees sideways.

I also looked at the frame and determined that is is un-modified(has  not been welded on), so in my opinion this truck is totally stock suspension wise, and the frame and door pillar numbers match the title.

I rode in it and seen the steering wheel shaking, and then I drove it and agreed that is has an issue, the steering wheel slightly shakes at about 40mph, but when I stepped on it and took it to 60mph, it drove smoothly.

I suggested that he replace the lower balljoints and the outer tie rod ends, the driverside was sorta loose, but I could not determine what exactly was loose, while the passenger side was a lot tighter, the truck has wide tires all around.

If it were my truck I would lift it and remove the tires and then the upper ball joints from the upper control arm to see if stuff got loose, it's kinda hard to tell what is loose when it is all bolted together, it's not obvious what the issue is.

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