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"Lucy" 71 Datsun 510 wagon


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#21 Stewiefied

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 05:44 PM

Just seen this today. Nice wagon. Love the stance. I'm currently working on a 72 wagon. Been dragging my feet on this one.

 

 

 

What are these beauties from?

 

thank you sir.. better start working on your wagon!!

 

the lights are from a nissan laurel



#22 Stewiefied

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 05:54 PM

I feel really dumb.. I did a ton of research and bought an 03 wrx 4.11 R160 diff for my IRS swap to only realize that there's a difference between the datsun's R160 and the Subaru's R160 stub axles :( I didn't realize that one has a clip spring and the other is a bolt in.. I dug into that and realize the only way to use this diff is to make some custom stub axles unless someone can point me to the right way to either buy some R160 (25 spline) clip stub axle that wont cost an arm and a leg or something... I found a thread and sent a DM to OP on Facebook, hoping he can build them for me!



#23 Z23T

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 06:55 PM

I feel really dumb.. I did a ton of research and bought an 03 wrx 4.11 R160 diff for my IRS swap to only realize that there's a difference between the datsun's R160 and the Subaru's R160 stub axles :( I didn't realize that one has a clip spring and the other is a bolt in.. I dug into that and realize the only way to use this diff is to make some custom stub axles unless someone can point me to the right way to either buy some R160 (25 spline) clip stub axle that wont cost an arm and a leg or something... I found a thread and sent a DM to OP on Facebook, hoping he can build them for me!

 

Follow this link to a old Dime Quarterly article about modifying the stub shafts. It's volume 9 issue 4.

https://docs.google....2RjODA5ODA1YjU1


People are better defined by their hobbies than their occupation.


#24 Stewiefied

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 08:59 AM

some more goodies came in today!! 23711827663_8c335f992f_k.jpg0112161052a_HDR by luis veguilla, on Flickr

24256142051_fde8d47804_k.jpg0112161052_HDR by luis veguilla, on Flickr



#25 Stewiefied

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 08:07 AM

did a little clean up on the motor and mocked up some stuff <3

24295047841_6f7f3d97a2_k.jpg0113162035_HDR by luis veguilla, on Flickr



#26 510T

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Posted 17 January 2016 - 03:46 PM

I feel really dumb.. I did a ton of research and bought an 03 wrx 4.11 R160 diff for my IRS swap to only realize that there's a difference between the datsun's R160 and the Subaru's R160 stub axles :( I didn't realize that one has a clip spring and the other is a bolt in.. I dug into that and realize the only way to use this diff is to make some custom stub axles unless someone can point me to the right way to either buy some R160 (25 spline) clip stub axle that wont cost an arm and a leg or something... I found a thread and sent a DM to OP on Facebook, hoping he can build them for me!

 

I have recently come across some claims that the later (2000-) R160s had viscous lsd that used same length stubs.  If that is true it is not too hard to swap in the threaded parts...

 

The wagon looks great!!!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

by akara ยป 13 Dec 2015 18:41

By the way, any R160 VLSD from a Subaru MY2000 or newer will have an updated style VLSD that 510 stubs will bolt right in as long as you swap the buttons over into the side gears from the old Datsun R160. These VLSD can be found standard in any 2000+ Outback with cold weather package in 4.4 ratio in the automatic and 4.1 in the manual. only $50 at the salvage yard.

 



#27 Stewiefied

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 07:45 AM

thanks for the tip!



#28 tr8er

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 09:44 AM

I think stubs from a 720 or 620 are used with the R160. A quick job cutting the mounting plate is all that they need. Something like that. Who's goon build just did this.,.

#29 Lockleaf

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 09:56 AM

http://www.the510rea...=12917&start=90

This thread from the realm has some pretty good info on the later Subaru lsd swap.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#30 Stewiefied

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 11:28 AM

^^ I was actually thinking of doing that but wasn't sure how it'd hold up...



#31 Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 04:39 PM

Asked this question in another thread, but you'll probably be more likely to see it here. How'd you do your flares? Are they completely custom metal, or were they started by folding out the inner lip of the wheel wells? Very well done, they give the car a great subtle attitude. 


938f1bc9-6fd2-4d35-94b9-9fca88b08806_zps

 

Nothing ever goes as planned.

 

http://community.rat...g-72-510-wagon/

 


#32 Stewiefied

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 05:06 PM

yea I didn't see the question in the other thread... pulled the inner and hammed out the metal and rolled



#33 Stewiefied

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 05:10 PM

picture I found a while back browsing the interwebz... yes i know i need a steering wheel upgrade

 

24102689039_f2fb81fcac_b.jpgFB_IMG_1436846991431 by luis veguilla, on Flickr



#34 Stewiefied

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 05:38 PM

24103105449_0c1b8fd4cb_k.jpgmaritza&amp;luis-604 by luis veguilla, on Flickr

24444702356_2fda4e3a63_k.jpgmaritza&amp;luis-481 by luis veguilla, on Flickr



#35 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 11:03 AM

i like the stock cast iron exahust manifold as it tucks up nice and soem of these headers hang low

But this is a bad ass wagon


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#36 TENDRIL

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 11:20 AM

yea I didn't see the question in the other thread... pulled the inner and hammed out the metal and rolled

 

 

really wish i would have done this 


Datsuns will 20 buck u to death


#37 Stewiefied

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 12:39 PM

i like the stock cast iron exahust manifold as it tucks up nice and soem of these headers hang low

But this is a bad ass wagon

hopefully it doesn't hang low...



#38 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 06:45 AM

also if made for a L16/18 header and intalled on a L20 thee collector can hit the floor as the L20 is 3/4 taller


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#39 tr8er

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 12:09 PM

I hope this helps.  Thanks to Louie.  

 

I've had this Subaru LSD sitting on the garage floor since 2011, where I got all the parts I thought I needed to fit it, and then changed my mind and it's gathered dust ever since.  But now's as good a time as any to chuck it in the car.
STiDiff%20015.jpg
 
The R180 rear diffs fitted to STi Subarus since the 90s have the benefit of a limited-slip center, and have the same external dimensions as the R180 diff in the Hako.  So the Subaru diff will bolt right up in place of the stock Nissan item, but there are some critical differences, including the front flange, which is easily swapped for a Nissan-compatible one.
STiDiff%20016.jpg
 
But there is one difference which is a showstopper. The axles which fit into the side of the diff are different.  The Hako one is a different spline count and is fixed into the diff with a central bolt, whereas the Subaru axle clicks into place; there's a spring clip that lives inside the diff, that clicks into that groove.  So while you can bolt up the STi diff, there are some engineering challenges to actually getting the driveshafts to mate with the diff.  
STiDiff%20055.jpg
 
The solution that Stewart Wilkins Motorsport offers, is to disassemble the Subaru diff, remove the spring clip mechanism, and replace it with hardware that will accept the Nissan-style central bolt.  Stew then obtains side axles from a Nissan truck, which coincidentally have the same diameter and spline count as the Subaru centre, and the outer flange is big enough that it can be milled down into a Skyline-compatible bolt pattern.  This way, all of the torque-bearing parts are either Subaru or Nissan, for a 100% factory-strength solution.  Stew rebuilt my Subaru diff, installed the new hardware, reset the backlash and fitted up a pair of his special axles.  Now, all we have to do is put it in  :)
STiDiff%20017.jpg
 
The diff bolts to the subframe via four long bolts at the nose of the diff.
STiDiff%20019.jpg
 
And at the back, it's located to the floorpan by this transverse bar.  Normally, the transverse bar is fitted to the diff via these studs, but many years ago, my friend John Roper suggested that I swap out the studs for bolts, so that it would be easier to remove the diff.  
STiDiff%20021.jpg
 
If we hadn't done this, the diff can only come out vertically, which means dropping the subframe, or slowly backing the studs out of the diff so that the transverse bar can slide out.
STiDiff%20022.jpg
 
Then the shocks and driveshafts should be removed.
STiDiff%20018.jpg
 
The propshaft unbolts from the diff, and then the four bolts attaching the front of the diff to the subframe are removed.
STiDiff%20020.jpg
 
There's not actually enough room to slide the diff backwards out of the subframe, without it clobbering the spare wheel well.
STiDiff%20025.jpg
 
So the brake lines have to be unplugged in order to allow the subframe to be lowered.  You can see one of the brake hoses getting a little stretched, and the subframe needs to go even lower.
STiDiff%20026.jpg
 
The resto gods must have been smiling down that day, because all of the fragile decades-old hardline nuts for the brake hoses came off without rounding.  I'd go out and buy a lottery ticket, but I think I've used up all my luck for now...
STiDiff%20027.jpg
 
With all that done, I loosen the 2 nuts holding up the subframe at either end.  I don't remove the nuts entirely, just loosen them enough to tilt the subframe downwards, enough to get the diff to clear the spare wheel well.
STiDiff%20029.jpg
 
Support it with a jack, then wiggle it out.  And when I say "wiggle", what I really mean is to grunt and heave at the stubborn diff, then try to balance it on the jack and then watch it overbalance, then realise the futility of trying to stop a 30kg lump of cast iron when it wants to go to ground, and then watch futilely as it clatters off the jack onto the floor.  Oh well, it's out.
STiDiff%20030.jpg

 

 


#40 tr8er

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 12:09 PM

 

Old versus new!  
STiDiff%20033.jpg
 
Installation is the reverse of disassembly...well, except for the dropping of the diff on the floor part.
STiDiff%20034.jpg
 
Nissan thoughfully provides quite a lot of wriggle-room between the diff and the subframe, but it means that you have to refit these spacers when you do up the bolts.
STiDiff%20035.jpg
 
My diff guy recommended straight LS90W, with an LSD additive.
STiDiff%20036.jpg
 
I forgot to fill the diff when it was conveniently sitting on the floor, but it's no great trouble to squirt in the new oil with my 500cc oil syringe.
STiDiff%20038.jpg
 
As for the driveshafts, the eagle-eyed among you may have noted that the old diff didn't actually have an inner flange, and just had unis which went straight into the diff.  That's not standard, and my diff was swapped out in Japan from the stock 3.9:1 R180 open diff, to a 4.4:1 open diff, and I guess it came with this style of driveshaft.  Stock Hako is to have driveshafts with flanges at both ends, like the top one pictured, which I obtained from Stew Wilkins.
STiDiff%20039.jpg
 
The new shafts are from a 260Z, and are a tiny bit shorter than the (admittedly non-standard) driveshafts that came with the old diff.  But the new driveshafts should be fine, they allow the suspension to droop a few more inches than the shocks will allow, to the droop travel limit will be set by the shocks, not the driveshafts bottoming out.  Which is good.
STiDiff%20046.jpg
 
I'd also er...forgotten to undo the brake hoses when I dropped the subframe, so the old ones got a good old stretch in the process.  They look okay, but I figured it's better safe than sorry, so I had new ones made up.
STiDiff%20047.jpg
 
STiDiff%20052.jpg
 
Now it's time to bleed fresh fluid into the dry new lines.
STiDiff%20053.jpg
 
I fitted Speedbleeders to each corners years ago, so it's easy to do a bleed by myself.  The ATE Racing Blue fluid is handy too, because you know that when the fluid coming out of the calipers is blue and not the yellow of the previous fluid, that all the old stuff is now bled out.
STiDiff%20054.jpg
 
And we're all done!
STiDiff%20046.jpg
 
And the LSD is great!  It's a 2-way plate diff, with a 4.4:1 gear (so it's the same ratio as the old diff) and is a nice and tight unit from a Version 6 STi RA.  The Hako was prone to spinning up the inside wheel on corner exits, but that's history now  :)
 
As for the viability of the Subaru diff conversion, well I think SW Motorsports' solution only works on the plate-type LSDs, so it won't work for the more common STi Suretrac/Torsen diffs.  And Stewie said that even among the plate-style diffs, there are two types; a version with a rough-cast pumpkin, and another with a smooth-machined finish to the LSD casing.  Only the rough-cast version will take his inner modification, so if you were to want to do this, you'd have to take off the back plate of the Subaru LSD to make sure it's the correct type.  But Stew is happy to send the axles and the inner hardware as a kit of parts, that any diff specialist can retrofit into a Subaru diff of the correct-type.
 
SW Motorsport has enough side axles to make up a few more sets of parts for converting the STi diffs, so if you want to do this, don't wait too long as Stewie only makes a batch every few years  :D