510T Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 I feel really dumb.. I did a ton of research and bought an 03 wrx 4.11 R160 diff for my IRS swap to only realize that there's a difference between the datsun's R160 and the Subaru's R160 stub axles :( I didn't realize that one has a clip spring and the other is a bolt in.. I dug into that and realize the only way to use this diff is to make some custom stub axles unless someone can point me to the right way to either buy some R160 (25 spline) clip stub axle that wont cost an arm and a leg or something... I found a thread and sent a DM to OP on Facebook, hoping he can build them for me! I have recently come across some claims that the later (2000-) R160s had viscous lsd that used same length stubs. If that is true it is not too hard to swap in the threaded parts... The wagon looks great!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ by akara » 13 Dec 2015 18:41 By the way, any R160 VLSD from a Subaru MY2000 or newer will have an updated style VLSD that 510 stubs will bolt right in as long as you swap the buttons over into the side gears from the old Datsun R160. These VLSD can be found standard in any 2000+ Outback with cold weather package in 4.4 ratio in the automatic and 4.1 in the manual. only $50 at the salvage yard. Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 I think stubs from a 720 or 620 are used with the R160. A quick job cutting the mounting plate is all that they need. Something like that. Who's goon build just did this.,. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=12917&start=90 This thread from the realm has some pretty good info on the later Subaru lsd swap. Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 ^^ I was actually thinking of doing that but wasn't sure how it'd hold up... Quote Link to comment
Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Asked this question in another thread, but you'll probably be more likely to see it here. How'd you do your flares? Are they completely custom metal, or were they started by folding out the inner lip of the wheel wells? Very well done, they give the car a great subtle attitude. Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 yea I didn't see the question in the other thread... pulled the inner and hammed out the metal and rolled Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 picture I found a while back browsing the interwebz... yes i know i need a steering wheel upgrade FB_IMG_1436846991431 by luis veguilla, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 maritza&luis-604 by luis veguilla, on Flickr maritza&luis-481 by luis veguilla, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 i like the stock cast iron exahust manifold as it tucks up nice and soem of these headers hang low But this is a bad ass wagon Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 yea I didn't see the question in the other thread... pulled the inner and hammed out the metal and rolled really wish i would have done this Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 i like the stock cast iron exahust manifold as it tucks up nice and soem of these headers hang low But this is a bad ass wagon hopefully it doesn't hang low... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 also if made for a L16/18 header and intalled on a L20 thee collector can hit the floor as the L20 is 3/4 taller Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 I hope this helps. Thanks to Louie. I've had this Subaru LSD sitting on the garage floor since 2011, where I got all the parts I thought I needed to fit it, and then changed my mind and it's gathered dust ever since. But now's as good a time as any to chuck it in the car. The R180 rear diffs fitted to STi Subarus since the 90s have the benefit of a limited-slip center, and have the same external dimensions as the R180 diff in the Hako. So the Subaru diff will bolt right up in place of the stock Nissan item, but there are some critical differences, including the front flange, which is easily swapped for a Nissan-compatible one. But there is one difference which is a showstopper. The axles which fit into the side of the diff are different. The Hako one is a different spline count and is fixed into the diff with a central bolt, whereas the Subaru axle clicks into place; there's a spring clip that lives inside the diff, that clicks into that groove. So while you can bolt up the STi diff, there are some engineering challenges to actually getting the driveshafts to mate with the diff. The solution that Stewart Wilkins Motorsport offers, is to disassemble the Subaru diff, remove the spring clip mechanism, and replace it with hardware that will accept the Nissan-style central bolt. Stew then obtains side axles from a Nissan truck, which coincidentally have the same diameter and spline count as the Subaru centre, and the outer flange is big enough that it can be milled down into a Skyline-compatible bolt pattern. This way, all of the torque-bearing parts are either Subaru or Nissan, for a 100% factory-strength solution. Stew rebuilt my Subaru diff, installed the new hardware, reset the backlash and fitted up a pair of his special axles. Now, all we have to do is put it in :) The diff bolts to the subframe via four long bolts at the nose of the diff. And at the back, it's located to the floorpan by this transverse bar. Normally, the transverse bar is fitted to the diff via these studs, but many years ago, my friend John Roper suggested that I swap out the studs for bolts, so that it would be easier to remove the diff. If we hadn't done this, the diff can only come out vertically, which means dropping the subframe, or slowly backing the studs out of the diff so that the transverse bar can slide out. Then the shocks and driveshafts should be removed. The propshaft unbolts from the diff, and then the four bolts attaching the front of the diff to the subframe are removed. There's not actually enough room to slide the diff backwards out of the subframe, without it clobbering the spare wheel well. So the brake lines have to be unplugged in order to allow the subframe to be lowered. You can see one of the brake hoses getting a little stretched, and the subframe needs to go even lower. The resto gods must have been smiling down that day, because all of the fragile decades-old hardline nuts for the brake hoses came off without rounding. I'd go out and buy a lottery ticket, but I think I've used up all my luck for now... With all that done, I loosen the 2 nuts holding up the subframe at either end. I don't remove the nuts entirely, just loosen them enough to tilt the subframe downwards, enough to get the diff to clear the spare wheel well. Support it with a jack, then wiggle it out. And when I say "wiggle", what I really mean is to grunt and heave at the stubborn diff, then try to balance it on the jack and then watch it overbalance, then realise the futility of trying to stop a 30kg lump of cast iron when it wants to go to ground, and then watch futilely as it clatters off the jack onto the floor. Oh well, it's out. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Old versus new! Installation is the reverse of disassembly...well, except for the dropping of the diff on the floor part. Nissan thoughfully provides quite a lot of wriggle-room between the diff and the subframe, but it means that you have to refit these spacers when you do up the bolts. My diff guy recommended straight LS90W, with an LSD additive. I forgot to fill the diff when it was conveniently sitting on the floor, but it's no great trouble to squirt in the new oil with my 500cc oil syringe. As for the driveshafts, the eagle-eyed among you may have noted that the old diff didn't actually have an inner flange, and just had unis which went straight into the diff. That's not standard, and my diff was swapped out in Japan from the stock 3.9:1 R180 open diff, to a 4.4:1 open diff, and I guess it came with this style of driveshaft. Stock Hako is to have driveshafts with flanges at both ends, like the top one pictured, which I obtained from Stew Wilkins. The new shafts are from a 260Z, and are a tiny bit shorter than the (admittedly non-standard) driveshafts that came with the old diff. But the new driveshafts should be fine, they allow the suspension to droop a few more inches than the shocks will allow, to the droop travel limit will be set by the shocks, not the driveshafts bottoming out. Which is good. I'd also er...forgotten to undo the brake hoses when I dropped the subframe, so the old ones got a good old stretch in the process. They look okay, but I figured it's better safe than sorry, so I had new ones made up. Now it's time to bleed fresh fluid into the dry new lines. I fitted Speedbleeders to each corners years ago, so it's easy to do a bleed by myself. The ATE Racing Blue fluid is handy too, because you know that when the fluid coming out of the calipers is blue and not the yellow of the previous fluid, that all the old stuff is now bled out. And we're all done! And the LSD is great! It's a 2-way plate diff, with a 4.4:1 gear (so it's the same ratio as the old diff) and is a nice and tight unit from a Version 6 STi RA. The Hako was prone to spinning up the inside wheel on corner exits, but that's history now :) As for the viability of the Subaru diff conversion, well I think SW Motorsports' solution only works on the plate-type LSDs, so it won't work for the more common STi Suretrac/Torsen diffs. And Stewie said that even among the plate-style diffs, there are two types; a version with a rough-cast pumpkin, and another with a smooth-machined finish to the LSD casing. Only the rough-cast version will take his inner modification, so if you were to want to do this, you'd have to take off the back plate of the Subaru LSD to make sure it's the correct type. But Stew is happy to send the axles and the inner hardware as a kit of parts, that any diff specialist can retrofit into a Subaru diff of the correct-type. SW Motorsport has enough side axles to make up a few more sets of parts for converting the STi diffs, so if you want to do this, don't wait too long as Stewie only makes a batch every few years :D Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Thanks for the info but this is a R180 I have a R160.. from what I can see no one makes stubs for them just R180s. I have a plan.. hopefully it works got an update from the shop last night.. some bad news while media blasting the car.. sand got all inside the car and looks like a beach now.. hopefully it cleans up easy and didn't ruin anything like the carpet or the seats Quote Link to comment
510T Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Not sure if you have seen my how-to but it should apply the same to a 25 spline R160. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42794-how-to-convert-an-open-25-spline-clip-in-r180-to-bolt-in-for-a-510/ Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Not sure if you have seen my how-to but it should apply the same to a 25 spline R160. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42794-how-to-convert-an-open-25-spline-clip-in-r180-to-bolt-in-for-a-510/ This is the route I'll be most likely taking.. hopefully it is straight forward swap from the WRX to the Datsun diff.. fingers crossed!! lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 fresh paint!! 43153 by luis veguilla, on Flickr and a cool custom Hot Wheel based on mine IMG_20160202_100433 by luis veguilla, on Flickr 5 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Wow really nice. Bad ass. Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 she's coming home!!0203161158_HDR by luis veguilla, on Flickr 0203161158a_HDR by luis veguilla, on Flickr ignore the crossmember... it's getting painted this weekend.. I have new bushings going in too 3 Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Wow really nice. Bad ass.Agreed. But I still love yours Tanker. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stewiefied Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 some progress... I must say it came apart a lot quicker than putting it back together 0228162138a_HDR by luis veguilla, on Flickr 4 Quote Link to comment
Big_E-Dog Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 looking great nonetheless Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Looks okay holy shit that looks fucking great 1 Quote Link to comment
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