freetheoranges Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 This page lacks oics of your engine. :thumbs up: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Early Chrysler? Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 that's what I thought but then it looks a little too green, sadly my engine block looks to be very light in colour so can use it for a paint match. Friend managed to get a cracking deal for engine bore, fitting pistons onto rods and crank examine and grind if required for £100. Just waiting on the call when he can take it/ Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 do you guys think it's worth putting ARP kit in engine (rods, mains and head) ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Not really if a stock engine. Stock rod bolts are good to 7K, all bolts are reusable. Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Thanks good to know, Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 If your getting the rods resized I'd just put the Arp rod bolts in just for that extra insurance Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Early Chrysler? Actually used into the 70's on 383 motors.And yes,it's a little too green-ish. Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 If your getting the rods resized I'd just put the Arp rod bolts in just for that extra insurance rods will be stock, pistons will be 1mm over sized. Compression will be increased. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Your not getting the rods reconditioned at the machine shop? When I did my rods I felt that the bolts were a little sloppy in the rods, so I put Arp bolts in, which led to shot peening them and reconditioning them. As rod bolts are one of the most stressed parts of an engine I get weary of re using 30 year old ones. For that reason and the fact that the Arp bolts aren't that much, and a rod recondition isn't that much anyway, why not? Peace of mind in my opinion. I will second datsunmike on the stock bolts being fine at 7k, the l20b in my truck gets spun that fast frequently ;) Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted October 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 they will be checked but the engine hasn't had a hard life and only covered 40k odd miles. everything in the engine looked very good apart for 2 rod bearings. On cylinder 3 and 4 and I can only think the oil pump was the issue which is being replaced. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Ahhh the oil pump. Be sure to get the KA24E oil pump from the S13 or the KA24E or DE from the D21 Hardbody truck. They have longer internal rotors for pushing 13% more volume. I have had one on all my L series engines. Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted October 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 we don't get these engines this side of the pond :( see quite a few on ebay though :) I do have a new 15010 21001 can I swap the internals to get an increase Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 No. 15010-21001 is a stock L 4 cylinder pump. The high volume pump has a longer rotor inside that will not fit. It's all internal. Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Thanks for the pictures. I had a look at some on ebay some of the casings look poor quality. Do you know of any makes to stay away from? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 I would try the Nissan dealer.The problem will be to actually know if you are getting a high volume pump or not. On the outside they look identical to the early pumps. If you have it off and look down into the intake opening of a regular pump you can just barely see the top of the pump rotors... On the high volume pumps the top of the rotors are clearly visible... There is no possible way to tell from the outside except looking down into it. The KA engines had two different types of pumps. One was internal the other external of the block and identical to the L series engines. #15010-40F00 is the part number. From Nissan about $120 US. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 #15010-40F00 is the part number. From Nissan Parts Zone about $76 US. Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 thanks, will drop them an email see if they will ship to UK Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted October 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 Block, pistons and crank being collected tomorrow by machine shop :) Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted October 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Nissan send me an email back, not willing to ship to uk, doh! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/index.php?cPath=9_57 hi volume oil pump Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Hi sorry for not updating sooner, Had a complete nightmare with the machine shop. I have an Oil pump on order with 15010-40F00 part no (thanks again) On to the machining saga, it's a little complicated and sadly put it down to an expensive lesson :( First I was quoted £100 (via friends garage) for the over size and crank inspection (fantastic price as I thought) The garage got the call stating the block was read and the total cost was £471. to cut a long pain full story short it ended up costing me £400 and here is what I got back after 3 hours I managed to get the crappy black paint off the block to say I was not pleased was an under statement. I have managed to get the block decontaminated from time of these pics. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 I am not sure what you are showing photos of, other than a dirty block, what exactly did the machine shop do? Did they machine anything? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 I would have just re bearing it to stock and said fuck it on that machine shop unless piston were really bad 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 They didn't even hot tank it? Find out what you paid for as I see nothing. I had my Z22 block overbored 2mm and it was about $25 a hole. Quote Link to comment
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