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Clutch swap fail... no engagement.


metalmonkey47

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Slapped the truck 225mm clutch in the 240z, PP was a different height so I left the stocker in there for the time being. The clutch disk looked literally identical.

 

Now the fucker won't get into gear. Slave and Master are less then 3 months old, hose is in good shape. I 'seem' to be getting full movement out of the clutch arm, but hey a brother can be wrong....

 

I have a very small amount of 'dead' pedal, maybe an inch or so (meaning, for that much of the pedal, I get no movement of the pushrod) even with both the master and slave adjustments fully extended.  I've bled 2 reservoirs worth of fluid through the system and gotten NO air. 


Suggestions? 

 

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Correct. 

I just re-bled the master, and slave. Got a little air out but still no luck. There's about an inch of play in the pedal before the pushrod on the slave moves... wonder if that's enough to fuck me over. 

Thinking about running to the store and grabbing two new ones and giving them a try. i wonder if the seals have started to seep a little. 

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Yeah, literally just a textbook, quick in-out swap. We double checked everything before it went back together. Didn't even remove the collar from the shaft. 


The thing that gets me is the inch of pedal play before the slave cylinder moves. I had everything adjusted out as far as possible before and it was hardly working. 

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My only guess is that one of the two parts in the hydraulic system wasn't working very well before... and because the clutch was worn to the rivets it slipped too much to notice. Now that there's a thicker, 'grabbier' disk in there, it would require more movement of the collar to engage the clutch all the way...

 

Would I be correct in thinking that? 

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I am confused.  "no engagement" to me means the engine does NOT turn the input shaft of the transmission, the car acts like it is in neutral, without your foot on the clutch pedal, in any gear.    A too tall throwout bearing collar would do that, it would hold the pressure plate away from the clutch disk.  You might also notice the engine and transmission do not slide completely together, because the pressure plate spring is holding them apart.

 

But not being able to get it into a gear with the engine running, is the clutch not disengageing.  The throwout bearing collar too short, and cannot move the fingers on the pressure plate far enough to allow the clutch disk to "let got" of the pressure plate and flywheel..

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Slapped the truck 225mm clutch in the 240z, PP was a different height so I left the stocker in there for the time being. The clutch disk looked literally identical.

 

 

Slapped the225mm clutch in the 240z or slapped the 225mm clutch disc in the 240???

 

Clutch pedal free play should be a few mm or 1/16" or so. Adjusting the play out will increase the pedal stroke and dis engage the PP more.

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Okay just to make it more clear, would not go into gear. 

 

 

HOWEVER...

 

 

I figured it out and fixed another problem at the same time. Pulled the slave and master off, and ran by the store to swap em just to appease the little monkey in the back of my head telling em to do it... grabbed the new master and realized the fucking pushrod on the new one was 1 1/2'' LONGER then the one on the old one. That explains why before on the uld unit, the adjustment was all the way out. not to mention, the screw on the bottom side that I believe is there for assembly, changed from weak aluminum to zinc plated steel.  I fucking HATE Autozone parts. I wish my Napa near my house didn't close down so I could buy my parts from somewhere I trust.

 

Slapped the225mm clutch in the 240z or slapped the 225mm clutch disc in the 240???

 

Clutch pedal free play should be a few mm or 1/16" or so. Adjusting the play out will increase the pedal stroke and dis engage the PP more.

 

In the 240z :P I'm smarter then mating the wrong clutches to the car.

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