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Cranking to start =Relay??


Twinpilot001

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Have a 1982 720 4 x 4  xtra cab truck--new ti me!! I rebuilt the engine, motor was in bed when i bought it!! :crying:   Now alls installed, new battery, Starter, key switch too.I got it to crank & start 1 time-ran  30 seconds & ran out of fuel ( put some in thru carb)!! Sounds great. Then NO CRANK!! Checked all - even elect fuel pump works! Just will not crank anymore.there is no power to the starter solenoid-on the key switch wirt. There is ???? a starter relay I think?? somewhere? Where is it at? fuse panel? which relay / location??Key switch has power &  is good on start circuit! I havent tried a remote starter  as yet - just  thinking theres a relay somewhere for that starter? Anyone?? thanx

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Try the remote start.  Also, hook up the actual fuel lines.  Those would be where I would go… no starter power, or not enough gas.  No relay that I know of, but there are those WAY more Datsun educated than I.

Now when you mean, no crank, do you mean no electric engaged t the starter, or do you mean the motor does not turn?  If either, then what part doesn't turn?

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Have a 1982 720 4 x 4  xtra cab truck--new ti me!! I rebuilt the engine, motor was in bed when i bought it!! :crying:   Now alls installed, new battery, Starter, key switch too.I got it to crank & start 1 time-ran  30 seconds & ran out of fuel ( put some in thru carb)!! Sounds great. Then NO CRANK!! Checked all - even elect fuel pump works! Just will not crank anymore.there is no power to the starter solenoid-on the key switch wirt. There is ???? a starter relay I think?? somewhere? Where is it at? fuse panel? which relay / location??Key switch has power &  is good on start circuit! I havent tried a remote starter  as yet - just  thinking theres a relay somewhere for that starter? Anyone?? thanx

I hope English is your second language.

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Start signal from the key goes directly to the starter solenoid. The solenoid is a large electrical switch that can handle hundreds of cranking amps from the battery.

 

Failure to crank can be poor connection at the battery terminals, Clean and tighten them

The battery may be low or dead. Recharge.

 

The start signal is weak from traveling about 15 feet to and from the ignition switch. I had intermittent cranking on my 710. A check showed 6 volts start signal. This was not enough to work the solenoid.

 

Try 'hot start relay' in the search and got this. Try mixing the words around for more results.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/102-hot-start-relay/

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/47895-starter-problems/

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Great replys guys!!  Therefore -there is actually no relay in the origional wiring! just a wire from key switch to starter solenoid! Yes- new battery, key switch, starter & solenoid new also. i will check voltage  on the wire to solenoid terminal.  I cant believe that small gague wire -is all that is origionally installed-like 18 gague stuff -yet its color coded as the correct one! Like i say - its worked 1 time-then nothing at all. Let u all know -Thanx again!!   :thumbup:  :thumbup:

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Man there must be something in the air...just went to move my truck back into the yard  after I just moved it earlier to mow....jumped in and tried to crank it,,and actually had it in gear without pressing the clutch..the truck of course tried to move since it was in gear..and then I used the clutch and I got a click but nothing..went and fully charged the battery since I know its old and kinda weak...but even fully charged I get a click and nothing.. you think I might have killed the starter by trying to crank it in gear.. I plan to go and get the battery load tested tomorrow and check all the conections with the voltemeter also. any ideas would be great.

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The starting my l20b was like that also. The solenoid wasn't getting proper voltage when cranking. It's a combination of a bad connection between the starter and solenoid and the signal coming from the ignition. I switched mine to push start, added a custom grounding kit and an Odyssey battery.

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Man there must be something in the air...just went to move my truck back into the yard  after I just moved it earlier to mow....jumped in and tried to crank it,,and actually had it in gear without pressing the clutch..the truck of course tried to move since it was in gear..and then I used the clutch and I got a click but nothing..went and fully charged the battery since I know its old and kinda weak...but even fully charged I get a click and nothing.. you think I might have killed the starter by trying to crank it in gear.. I plan to go and get the battery load tested tomorrow and check all the conections with the voltemeter also. any ideas would be great.

 

If in gear the load on the starter is way higher and more current will flow. If your battery terminals are corroded or dirty/loose and making poor connection this sudden current can blow this connection like a fuse. Check battery cables and don't forget the ground cable where it bolts to the intake and the positive one on the starter lug. Bet this is it.

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ok well I jumped the solenoid  to the positive on the starter. you can feel and hear the solenoid working. but nothing happens. key is in run and truck out of gear...so now im going to go get the battery load tested to make sure its actually putting out the cranking amps required...the last battery in the wifes car that went bad when load tested was putting out 29amps instead of the rated 750amps  so Im thinking that might be whats going on here too. the connections to the intake were solid as was the one on the starter. I will post more info once I get back from getting it tested in a few.

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got the battery tested. first test showed good, but it was leaking some acid. so they did a full on test and it was inconsistent showing good then needs replacing and so on.. so I just got a new battery with the most cca i could find. now its like 690 cca and 800 regular    instead of the 450cca and 500 regular i had.. but as I feared...thats not the issue...I wonder if the starter is jammed in the flywheel somehow..I was gonna put it in gear and push start it..maybe if its jammed it would free it up. just thinking out loud here so if anyone's got anything else they would like me to try I'm all ears. 

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So I need to have someone in the truck holding it in the cranking position. I figured if it was in run that was good.  by the way tested the voltage at a few spots here is what I got... battery is reading 12.8, from the post to post,  the starter + post to where the negative battery cable mount to the intake reads 12.7,  the wire from the ignition (black wire with red strip) ready 14 volts then drops and holds at 12.5 volts . 

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ok just ran a wire from the positive battery post to the starter solenoid engaging it..then jumped in the truck and turned the key over to crank it.....Nothing just the one click I always here from the relay under the dash....wondering if I am to the point that I can say the starter itself is bad..I guess I can just unbolt the damn thing and take to to be tested...huh  unless someone thinks I am missing something simple still.

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ok just to update this cause i know I hate when people dont tell when they find the true issue of their problems...

My starter tested bad at two different parts places. advanced and O'rileys, So Im pretty sure its bad.. so once my part gets shipped to this side of town I will go get it and install it and update this again confirming everything.. should be all done by 5pm today... so I guess I just bought a new battery for nothing..but the higher cranking amps will be nice.

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well-? still Bum Foozled!!!!     I have  learned -that the stsrter I removed from this engine was  from a 1980-510 with =Automaric!!   Now -the actual 720  starter  for this truck =locates the solenoid very close to the engine block!! so close -I can not see the  solenoid  wire or get access to it!!  I have now ordered  the 510 starter (automatic tranny.)  that  locates the solenoid farther away from the block!! Then i can see & work on the  thing. I'm  also in process= have  this am --- run my  remote starter  to the solenoid wire where the wire bundle connector is below battery-& find all i get is the solenoid clicking (small noise /click) sporatically @ the starter & NO!! cranking as yet. I did unplug all 3 wire bundle connectors  that are below the battery / w/s washer bottle  & checked for corosion (none) & cleaned & lubed them. I also have no clicking sound coming from the fuse panel on drivers side-I did unplug the 2 relays & plug them back in!! Maybe I should have bought a TOYOTA!!??--- :rofl:

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If you take off your air cleaner and look down the intake runner between the you can in fact see the solenoid wire, I just reach my hand in there and feel for it, I have a weber carb so I can see down through in between the runners without removing anything. but I can tell you this. if you arch the solenoid to the positive and all you get is the plunger going in and out..and no spin than your in the same boat as me...a bad starter... Mine should be ready for pickup in a few hours and I hope to have her 100% running again after that.

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Ok heres the final= starter is (open) in solenoid area- got another starter!! works great now. I did trace the wiring   from Fuse panel  -to starter (ign, switch) and  goes from there  directly to starter solenoid. I also replaced all fuses & cleaned the fuse  box area too. There is no relay in that system.!! The feed to fuse block area is from battery via the (@ battery) the  fuseable links!! to fuse panel. Check that also.

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Update for me.....Its all fixed and back on the road...bad starter there was play in the shaft and I think it was rubbing internally and getting too hot. either way it finally froze up. new one engages great and spins fast as hell, no more lugging and hard starts.  Happy camper here... :thumbup:  :thumbup:  :thumbup:  :thumbup:

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