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720zx Time to finish it


720zx

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TIG? nice!

 

Checked for ride height in my '86 FSM but can't find anything. 

 

It's there but different for 2wd/4x4. It's measures from a suspension bolt center line (LCA) down to the ground. I'll try to remember to look it up tonight.

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Yes it will be a flat bed as the original one died of cancer years ago.

I have already made a box section frame for the back but I'm not sure if I like it. My first thoughts were to have the bed low and the wheel arches through it but now I'm thinking of raising the bed above the wheels. Does anyone have opinions on this?

 

Wheel and tyre size is also a concern and will have an effect on the bed / arch height. I am no expert on this but due to the different diff ratios from the 280zx and the 720 (3.54:1 and 4.1:1 approx) to keep the speedo accuracy I reckon I would need a tyre diameter of approx 29" (correct me if I'm wrong) giving the truck a raked look. What do you guys think of that or is it old hat.

I love all of your fabrication work. I wish I had your skills. I have a 1980 datsun 720 rat truck that has a 1970 dat 240z engine about 90 percent installed in it. I need to figure out how i am going to get the exhaust pipe hooked up to the motor. it seems that there is a torsion bar in the way. problem #2 is some sort of air cleaner assembly. And here in Arizona we have to pass emmision test. And and has anyone told you that you talk funny? I'm sorry but I could not resist that last comment. I am also Happy to see someone else do the straight six change over in a 720 truck. I will have to get some pictures of my project here.....Jim.

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It's there but different for 2wd/4x4. It's measures from a suspension bolt center line (LCA) down to the ground. I'll try to remember to look it up tonight.

Mike do you think you could check ride height for both 2wd and 4wd? Got me curious exactly how much different mine is from the factory..

 

Also that flip front is cool, looks like a lotta work, nice job.

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Thanks, everyone's words of encouragement are much appreciated.

As I said before, you do good work!!!

I have a question about the flip front, why did you leave a little jog in the line when transitioning from the hood to the fender, to keep it centered?

The line of the hood to the fender is offset by 35mm. This was a result of coincidence rather than good planning. The body was removed while I fitted the engine and worked on the chassis. Due to the severity of rust I cut out the whole floor, sills and firewall and a new floor pan was fabricated while the body was sat on its back. Then the firewall and transmission tunnel were fabricated after the body was re-fitted so clearance around the engine could be achieved. It was much later when I started the flip front that the position of the hood and fenders became apparent. So to say it is to keep it centred would be wrong but it does to a degree.

 

I will post some old pictures of the chassis and floor pan build when I scan them in.

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Is that rustolem sail blue.....?

 

I'm not sure of the name of the colour. The original paint was a light blue. So as I was doing body work, to keep the rust at bay I painted it with some cellulose blue that I had. I colour matched that colour and have used 2k paint. I call it Smurf blue.

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I love all of your fabrication work. I wish I had your skills. I have a 1980 datsun 720 rat truck that has a 1970 dat 240z engine about 90 percent installed in it. I need to figure out how i am going to get the exhaust pipe hooked up to the motor. it seems that there is a torsion bar in the way. problem #2 is some sort of air cleaner assembly. And here in Arizona we have to pass emmision test. And and has anyone told you that you talk funny? I'm sorry but I could not resist that last comment. I am also Happy to see someone else do the straight six change over in a 720 truck. I will have to get some pictures of my project here.....Jim.

Thanks Jim. I would really like to see pictures of your project.

Although my exhaust is not complete I have fabricated a 51mm stainless steel pipe from where the original down pipes go from 2 to 1. A slight offset passed the torsion bar, under a cross member and out the back. I need to source a stainless silencer before I can finish it. We have to pass emission tests here in England but due to the trucks age I think they will be a bit more lenient.

On the subject of "talking funny" I do speak the Queens English although I have used American terms such as hood instead of (bonnet) fender (wing) firewall (bulkhead) and mm instead of inches. I do hope you can understand me though. LOL

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TIG? nice!

 

Checked for ride height in my '86 FSM but can't find anything. 

 

 

Mike do you think you could check ride height for both 2wd and 4wd? Got me curious exactly how much different mine is from the factory..

 

Also that flip front is cool, looks like a lotta work, nice job.

 

 2 and 4x4 ride heights are measured differently. Neither is measured to the ground, but between other suspension points.

 

2wd Ride Height...

...is measured below the lower control arm. (LCA) On a horizontal line over from the tension rod mounting bolt head on the LCA, measure vertically up to the front center line of the LCA hinge point. This is the front side of the LCA where the torsion bar attaches to it.

 

King Cab...... 4.45" to 4.61"

Reg. Cab..... 4.65" to 4.80"

 

4wd Ride Height...

...is measured below the lower control arm. (LCA) On a horizontal line over from the steering stopper bracket on the LCA, measure vertically up to the front center line of the LCA hinge point. This is the front side of the LCA where the torsion bar attaches to it.

 

King Cab....... 1.54" to 1.69"

Reg, Cab....... 1.73" to 1.89"

 

Adjust the anchor bolts on the rear of the torsion bars to adjust height up or down. Bounce suspension to equalize before measuring without driver in cab..

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It's never easy is it, seems like a simple question, but there is always a reason for it to be complicated.

 

Mike do you think you could check ride height for both 2wd and 4wd? Got me curious exactly how much different mine is from the factory..

Also that flip front is cool, looks like a lotta work, nice job.

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I'm not sure of the name of the colour. The original paint was a light blue. So as I was doing body work, to keep the rust at bay I painted it with some cellulose blue that I had. I colour matched that colour and have used 2k paint. I call it Smurf blue.

 

 

Awe smurf blue. We always called it papa smurf when I had it..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since I painted the front I have been getting the rest of the truck ready for a re-spray. I have filled in the door lock holes as I am going to fit remote locking. Pictures will be here soon when its finished. 

 

Here are some old photos of the truck when I first got it.

Sorry for the poor quality of these pics.

 

305b591e-9a8e-4093-90ff-ff8ab5afbbdc_zps

 

1bcc28d2-7b03-459b-90a5-931c3a7c89bc_zps

 

Save0003_zps607ec738.jpg

 

Save0004_zpsee370042.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

That was a one year hood, there were no functional vents from 81-86, and them 2 plastic vents on the 81/82 were cosmetic, yes one of them was a small vent, but the other was solid, I used to have a set, should have taken a photo of them, from 83 on there were no holes of any kind in the hood even with a larger engine(Z24).

You do good work.  :thumbup:

 

Exactly why I HATE when people weld them up or fill them in! Besides the fact they look so cool and unique, especially when you have a clean and shiny engine.

 

That flip up front end does look good though. I really like the welded in mesh and filled in corner lights!

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