oceanbeach510 Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 So i have a 1972 510 With a L18 and i noticed the drag link is rubbing on the oil pan, does anyone else have the same problem or know a fix? thanks. Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 You meant to say the drag link is rubbing on the oil pan. Do you have the right oil pan. Some will chime in and post a pic of the right one. Quote Link to comment
oceanbeach510 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Mrbigtanker what are you talking about i wrote it correctly!... jk thanks had a few beers tonight lol 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Engine was swapped in and may not have the correct L16 pan on it. Masage it with a BFH for clearance. Quote Link to comment
oceanbeach510 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 sounded sexual to me for some reason.. just me? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Just the beers talkin'. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 If you have a passion for large hammers, sure. Sicko. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 take photo of the oil pan. Most likely wrong type installed. also the motor mounts just in case. your supposed to use a L16 oil pan and motor mounts. I assume this is a L motor? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 L18, and i think they are rear sump? you need a l16 pan Quote Link to comment
oceanbeach510 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Yea i already replaced the motor mounts so prob the wrong pan i think i will just give it a few taps with BFH. Oh also hainz im redoing my timing chain next weekend and i just wanted to thank you for your videos you posted on youtube they where great. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 L18, and i think they are rear sump? you need a l16 pan Trucks tend to be rear sump so the front can be higher to clear the steering cross rod and the cross member support between the strut ends at the LCAs. Cars have steering linkages more to the rear of the engine and the pan is shallowest there with the deepest part of the sump more to the middle/front. In either case, the oil pick up tube must also be changed. A car L18 such as a 610 or 710 does not automatically mean it will work on an earlier L16 510, but would be closer than a truck one for sure. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Oh also hainz im redoing my timing chain next weekend and i just wanted to thank you for your videos you posted on youtube they where great. don't thank unless you get it right . Key is if you have the Jap parts with all the marks. Most timming sets now are Mellingor cloyes cam sprockets and there the 3 hole type where you cant see the marks. But still will work. Mos times the old chain/even sproket is fine mostly the slack side guide and tensionor are worn out. really if you don't need to do it don't unless your really confident in doing this and taking your time Quote Link to comment
oceanbeach510 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Oh yea I have been working on cars for 10 plus years ( mostly sbc's) I was just commenting on how convenient a video like that is for some of the new people who have never done anything like that before. I know i wouldnt spend the time on making it. and take a complement gesh! lol Quote Link to comment
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