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My 720 Resto


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#41 720inOlyWa

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 07:46 AM

No, I pulled that out of a Pathfinder. I think it was a 90 (or so). The lid is up in the picture, but you get the idea. It was uncomfortable for me to drive without something for my right forearm. I have something about it in this thread somewhere.



#42 720inOlyWa

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 11:22 AM

My relatively new Diehard battery has been getting pulled down lately and I thought perhaps the voltage regulator or alternator might be the culprit. There I go again, making a mountain out of a mole hill: it was simply a broken (and otherwise chincy) negative battery terminal. The OReilly gal tested my charging system then sold me a more robust connector, one with some metal mass. Voila- problem solved. Since I don’t have to buy an alternator today, that means I can pull the gauge cluster and add my tach this weekend, while replacing dead dash bulbs and getting the heater / blower straightened out and cleaned up. I may track down the leads for the voltage meter and oil pressure gauges and get them ready to go in as well. Anyone know if the voltage meter is just plug and play?

 

TERMINALREPLACEMENT_zps6be9c222.jpg



#43 720inOlyWa

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 03:44 PM

So it is a nice day today and I had nothing better to do than visit my local PickAPart. I knew there just couldn’t be anything great waiting for me there because I have been through often lately... Then, boom- there is a nice little 720 King Cab ST, new in the yard. So I grabbed the dash cluster and resistor, like pronto. And just like that, totally unexpectedly, I found the very thing I had been searching way too hard to find- right here in my back yard!  My coveted dash clock! I have one now!

 

There will be no stopping me now, I am going to be harvesting organs from the donor cluster tonight, with an aye towards doing a general and sweeping dash renovation over the weekend. I may have to pet and lick the clock first though. 

 

 

THEDONORCLUSTER_zps8a3c2e57.jpg



#44 wayno

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 06:30 PM

Can't you just take your instrument cluster out of the dash and put the new one (to you) in it's place, it seems like the plugs should just plug in and you should be good.


 

 


#45 720inOlyWa

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 09:14 PM

Probably just what I will do, just plug the entire package in... wait a minute- this odo has 100,000 more miles on it! I will probably keep the original odo / speedo.

The donor is dirty inside, so it will come apart for cleaning first. Bulb checking, all of that. Man, I was so glad to see that cluster, I had it out of the wreck in no time flat! I am actually looking forward to chasing away a bunch of little dashboard area gremlins that came with this truck, then installing this complete cluster.

When I did my junker head gasket job last spring, I regretted not dropping the head off for a rebuild. I just should have done it, that’s all. I can see gambling on the rings a little, if everything looks okay, but a head rebuild- with cam is only $150. Why not? I didn’t. Instead, I just cleaned it up good and stuck it back on there. She is driving fine now, but I am toying with the idea of pulling the head off of this wreck and seeing if it is worth rebuilding.

I don’t want to give anything away, but there are two 720s in my town, both carbon copies of mine, and each has been offered to me at one time or another. And I have heard of a few others, too. One that I have inspected is pretty nice, the other is a beater. Upon hearing of my interest in 4 banger trucks, another guy said his friend has a 82 Toyota 2wd drive I can have, if I just tow it away. Sure, you bet I am going to take a look anyway.

It could be the rapture of owning / driving my 720 KC, but I think that 720s are going to be hot(ter) as time perks along. Maybe not classics, but collectible.

#46 _chiefjt

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 11:23 PM

Nice find. I checked my picapart and they didn't have crap.



#47 720inOlyWa

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 09:15 PM

Cleaning out the blower fan.

My blower motor seems like it is really doing the job, but very little actually comes out of the vents. It doesn’t really say anything about cleaning out the blower cage in my service manuals, but I presume that is the SOP for my symptoms, correct? (I have the AC equipped model, so you cannot just drop a chunk of duct and clean it out.). I took a look through the service manual, but they don’t say that one should pull the blower motor to clean out the squirrel cage. I just seems like the logical way in. Please let me know if I am all wrong. 

 

I got a set of jump seats at the yard today. Judging from the way the mounting bolts were frozen hard into the floorboards, I would judge that my truck never had them before. I thought that they were standard equipment, and tat most owners took them out to get a little more room. Were the jump seats an option? They sure work great, considering.



#48 720inOlyWa

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 08:49 AM

My jump seats are all rehabbed and installed. I can’t imagine too many Ratsun folks can or would get all excited about finding a set of jump seats, but I love them- and so does Hazel, our puggle doggie! I suspect that a lot if people who had these seats also had no expectation of putting a human being back there- so they pulled them out and tossed them. My truck didn’t have any when I bought it, but the carpet dents suggested that it did have them, once upon a time. They are so damn cute, so nicely engineered, that I just had to add them back to my 720 KC. Heck, you fold them up and they hardly take up any space at all!

 

JUMPSEAT_zpsc3d375ec.jpg



#49 wayno

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 04:55 PM

It looks good. :)


 

 


#50 720inOlyWa

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 08:30 PM

I rebuilt the dash cluster, adding the best components from the donor and existing clusters to make up a niceone. Now I finally have my working tach and clock. I really like the look, too. This was a fun project, made easy by having a donor cluster to practice on, rebuild, generally check out. Ahhh, that tach is floating along right where it should be. And hey, look- it’s 4:20 boys and girls! Time to pound one and check out the Postits thread.

 

CLUSTERINANDWORKING_zpsc98fc3e1.jpg

 

Of course, some questions arose. I looked and looked, but could not find a waiting plug for the clock. The clock itself came out of an ‘86, and mine is an ’85, but I could not see a lick of difference in the clusters themselves. The clock plug is green, and has a two pronged connection.

 

CLOCKPLUG_zps9347fb9e.jpg

 

The only thing I see tucked up inside that side of the dash is this plug, but it isn’t close to a match. 

 

 

 

LURKINGPLUG_zpsc33f6833.jpg

 

Any thoughts? Did I just miss it somehow? (Boy, I really looked around pretty hard.)  Now I have to go out to the yard again and see if I can find the other end of the green plug that (I think) I left behind, so I can wire it in someplace. I reckon that the clock, since it needs to run all the time, has a direct tie into the battery circuit somehow. Is this assumption correct?

 

Which brings me to dash lights. The old cluster had a couple that were out.  In most cases, the bulbs looked okay under magnification, but the copper circuit connection had oxidized, and built up enough grunge to compromise the contact. A little 1200 grit wet and dry sandpaper and Deoxit spray cleaned them up nicely. So I get all the lights working fine, but I am disappointed in the actual amount of light on the dash cluster, even when they are turned up.

 

Then I noticed that there are two bulb slots that were not used in either the donor dash, or mine. They are the larger bulb size and the slots themselves are on the outer perimeter of the cluster. Are these optional bulb slots that I can use to amp up my dash lights a little? They trace back to the same circuit as the other large bulbs that illuminate the other gauges. 

 

Would it have killed someone to brush a little radium paint on the needles of the gauges? (yes, quite possibly) I wonder if beefing up the dash illumination a little would make the needles easier to spot. Any experiences there?  Thanks!



#51 wayno

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 08:35 PM

Wow, you must be rich, that tank is full. :lol:

 

The plugs are usually taped up inside the dash harness, you likely will have to un-clip the harness from the dash clips along the lower lip to find it.


 

 


#52 Gradyfest

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 09:38 PM

Dang it bro! I was in northern LA today at the pick your part places, only found four gutted 720s; but I seen that drivers side kick panel you needed! Totally would of grabbed it for you if I'd read this before hand. Mad props on the cluster job by the way, looks great. Get that clock working!
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#53 _chiefjt

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 11:22 PM

I forget where I found mine but it was taped to a harness using blue tape. And yes it is getting power all the time. When I get time I'll looks but it should be there. I had the same problem with the tach plug. 



#54 720inOlyWa

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 08:40 AM

I will have to go digging again. That plug must be up in there somewhere...  Next project will be to integrate the ST volt meter and oil pressure gauges into the console. I loves me some gauges! Thanks for all the feedback, fellow Ratsunites!  (fb, I did find a set of kick panels in this 720 and nabbed them. Thanks for thinking of me!)



#55 84720FourWheel

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 09:36 AM

So jealous of your clock. Looks super clean. Have you tried tracing the wires from the fuse box to where the clock connector is? 


It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#56 wayno

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 04:46 PM

That is not an "ST" thing, a lot of 720s had that, I have it in most my builds(520/521/720), you need the kingcab console with the gauges, the pigtail from the harness to the wiring coming from the gauges, you need the sender under the intake manifold of the napZ engine, which is a pain in the ass to get off the block, because you need to use a wrench to loosen it, you cannot just grab the sensor and turn it off, it will just ruin it.

A regular cab console is shorter, that is why you need a kingcab console.

I will have to go digging again. That plug must be up in there somewhere...  Next project will be to integrate the ST volt meter and oil pressure gauges into the console. I loves me some gauges! Thanks for all the feedback, fellow Ratsunites!  (fb, I did find a set of kick panels in this 720 and nabbed them. Thanks for thinking of me!)

Guess what, I found another chrome 720 center cap that I didn't know I had. :lol:


 

 


#57 84720FourWheel

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 06:07 PM

4x4s all have the center console gauges. Buy a cheap wrench and bend it to get at the pressure sender. 


It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#58 720inOlyWa

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 09:07 PM

Thanks for the advice, wayno- that clock plug was hiding under the bundle of wires that ran in the dash rim there, just like you said. Sneaky little bugger! Once I plugged it in, I just sat there and listened to the second hand ftick, tick, tick away for a few minutes. Awesome!

 

Will do as advised to get the pressure sensor. Do you happen to remember what size of wrench I need to bend up for the job? Can I get it with a flex head wrench?

 

I had an ST console already,so I harvested the gauges. But the way my KC console was cut up before, there is a perfect spot for a faceplate and the gauges. I am going to fabricate a faceplate to fit the existing hole in the existing KC console, with the mounting bracket that came with the ST console. You know what I mean.

 

Is the volt meter plug and play? I really enjoy sleuthing for taped up gauge plugs!

 

I made a trade offer for an ‘86 standard cab 720 today. A Jotul wood stove, and a chainsaw. He’s thinking about it.

 

Thanks, guys!



#59 wayno

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 09:23 PM

I cannot remember what size the nut on the back of it is, if the intake manifold is removed, it's a lot easier to get to, and you have to know where the wrench needs bent before you can bend it.

It's likely the flex head wrench/crescent wrench is to fat, there is hardly any room back there. 

Thanks for the advice, wayno- that clock plug was hiding under the bundle of wires that ran in the dash rim there, just like you said. Sneaky little bugger! Once I plugged it in, I just sat there and listened to the second hand ftick, tick, tick away for a few minutes. Awesome!

 

Will do as advised to get the pressure sensor. Do you happen to remember what size of wrench I need to bend up for the job? Can I get it with a flex head wrench?

 

I had an ST console already,so I harvested the gauges. But the way my KC console was cut up before, there is a perfect spot for a faceplate and the gauges. I am going to fabricate a faceplate to fit the existing hole in the existing KC console, with the mounting bracket that came with the ST console. You know what I mean.

 

Is the volt meter plug and play? I really enjoy sleuthing for taped up gauge plugs!

 

I made a trade offer for an ‘86 standard cab 720 today. A Jotul wood stove, and a chainsaw. He’s thinking about it.

 

Thanks, guys!

Here is the sensor on my work truck LZ23 engine(Z22 block) just in front of the starter, as you can see, it is tight against the block, imagine a napZ intake manifold over it and you can get an idea about how hard it is to get to.

DSCN0768.JPG


 

 


#60 wayno

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 09:50 PM

You just need to wire the volt meter to a keyed source, but you likely have the plug already in your harness, but unless you know where it is, you almost have to remove the dash to find it, that is why I told you to get the pigtail(mini harness) for the gauges, when you find that part, you will have to unplug it from the harness, so that will give you an idea where to look on your harness, as I recall, it is close to/against the firewall just left of the heater blower motor next to that ground wire back there.

Like everything about these 720s, it's a pain to get to, but once it's working, it seems to keep on working like the energizer bunny, well except the head gaskets, they like to go away on a regular basis unless you re-torque the head bolts every tune up.

The kingcab console has a change tray in front of the shifter, the regular cab console doesn't have it.

The gauge holder is separate from the console, with a visor to shade the gauges themselves.

This is a regular cab console in my 521 work truck, see the gauge holder that holds the gauges, the holder that holds the gauges in position also holds the holder in position.

DSCN0754.JPG

Here is a kingcab console with the change tray in front of the shifter, doesn't have the gauges here/yet.

DSCN1105.JPG

M y kingcab with the gauge holder and an aftermarket oil pressure gauge(kingcab console).

DSCN0747.JPG

And here is my 520 with a kingcab console with gauges.

DSCN3583.JPG

Here is the gauge holder up close.

DSCN3584.JPG