petercscherer Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Geez, and mine is totally different than either of those! ~Peter 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Yeah, I picked mine up used, it had been on a Toyota and the throttle cable actuator was welded on. I didn't feel like trying to redo that to face the other direction. Instead I ground out the adapter plate so that if fit the larger barrel on the wrong side. Technically, the big barrel is supposed be the one closest to the engine. Mine runs fine, but it isn't perfectly optimal according to Weber. My throttle cable mount and return spring mount are totally custom as well. 2 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Well, the photo was from the early mock-up stage, essentially the line running horizontal in the frame is the manual choke, and the vertical one is the throttle. I wound up doing the throttle linkage differently, but my point was that the orientation of the carb is different. :/ ~Peter 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I think yours matches Charlies. throttle cable on the back side by the firewall is the standard orientation. Maybe I'm seeing it weird though. I am on a cell phone right now. 2 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I think yours matches Charlies. throttle cable on the back side by the firewall is the standard orientation. Maybe I'm seeing it weird though. I am on a cell phone right now. Looking again, I think you're right, his has a cam and pulls from the passenger side, and mine pulls from the driver's side. But the carb is bolted down the same. To each his own I guess, as long as your linkage works and these old trucks keep going... :) ~Peter 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Whenever I install a Weber on a Datsun/Nissan I take the throttle cable plate off the factory carb and install it on the Weber. I try to get the same cable orientation as was stock. This helps me avoid problems on the road. The main problem I had was trying to get a return spring setup to get a straight pull and not be to strong or to weak in spring tension. 2 Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I'm a fan of these air filters. Looks moar cool that the stocker weber give you http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/1029.htm 2 Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 My 720 has always been about keeping the dead stock look. You other guys can try to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, but I like the sow’s ear just fine as it was delivered. Well, almost. Maybe that is a part of the reason that I am not so fond of the Weber air cleaner offering- it looks cheap and out of place to my eye. The stock air cleaner has the advantage- whether you like the look or not- of appearing to be engineered for the package. It is OEM, therefore aesthetically legitimate. Besides, I want to lean on it with my palm while checking shit over, without munching the air filter. That is simply truck logic, to me. And the stock air cleaner makes a fine leaning post, when appropriately mounted. Other than whatever we each decide is cool, there is the matter of operational practicality. Maybe yours is different, but my truck is still a little cold blooded in winter time. Oh she starts right up, but she has to warm up a little to run at her best. Until then, you sort of have to know what you are doing. Well, I want to get some of that exhaust manifold heat going down the chute asap on winter mornings. And nothing will do that better than the stock air cleaner arrangement. I had a revelation the other day when I met a guy with a 720 with TBI fuel injection. He loves it. Holy cow- it runs the same cold or hot! I mean, the same. His cold start freaked me out. Now I finally understand Charlie’s interest in TBI. Fitting the base plate this morning... 3 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Looking good! :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Just fyi, you can do the TBI upgrade with the D21 parts, should you ever really care to. Here is a basic "how I dun it" from the interwebs. http://nissannut.com/projects/z24i_fuel_injection/ 3 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I have been gathering parts and knowledge to do the TBI automatic upgrade to my 86 KC. It is a spendy proposition unless you buy a complete truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Just fyi, you can do the TBI upgrade with the D21 parts, should you ever really care to. Here is a basic "how I dun it" from the interwebs. http://nissannut.com/projects/z24i_fuel_injection/ Whooeee. If it takes all that, I will keep messing with my carb for a while... Neat info, though. 1 Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Did you rtv the semi circular plugs? It'll end up leaking again if you don't. Permatex #2 my preference in this application. I shy away from rtv in MOST applications. Silicone plugs up the pores of 4 good. 1 Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Whenever I install a Weber on a Datsun/Nissan I take the throttle cable plate off the factory carb and install it on the Weber. I try to get the same cable orientation as was stock. This helps me avoid problems on the road. The main problem I had was trying to get a return spring setup to get a straight pull and not be to strong or to weak in spring tension. YES! We must be is some kind of weird parallel universe......it was like my mind talkin. 1 Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 It's NOT a Toyota!The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system. Old Vee-Dubs don't leak oil....they are just markin' their spot! Did you hear the one about new honda motorcycles..... They come with an adjustable dial-a-drip oil system The only way to compete with their Harley counterparts. 2 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I took my truck in to get an alignment, and the guy came out and and said "the ball joints on yer Toyota are bad." It says Nissan on the tailgate, it says Nissan on the sheet of paper he had, and it says Nissan on the fenders. No idea where he got Toyota from. 2 Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Yep, I permatexed those semi circular plugs alrightie. I didn’t before, but I do now! Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I'm a fan of these air filters. Looks moar cool that the stocker weber give you http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/1029.htm That air cleaner does not fit the DGV, DGAV, DGEV Webers. Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 The Guys from S&S Auto Glass stopped by to replace my windshield this morning. Ohhhh, man, what a treat to get a new one! They did a great job for a fair price. I recommend them for my area. I pulled the cowling to find a bunch of brow furrowing previous repair, which will have to be dealt with. Some rust and Por15 work to do as well. Just crappy workmanship, whenever I uncover a previous repair on this truck. So I will do the sub-cowling rehab project here in the next day or so, before that part goes back on. The windshield wiper arms on this truck are for shit. Same as the ones on my 4x4. Just straight bars that stuff into a flimsy plastic wiper mount that breaks easily with repeated lateral force application. When the little plastic mount breaks, then your blades are chattering. The next step, if not dealt with, would be scratching other arc in my new windshield. And we caint haddat! Anybody have any suggestions on real good wiper arm / blade solutions? The auto glass guy said that the end pieces are missing, that Nissan had a little capture cage on the wiper arms that fit proprietary Nissan wiper blades, and that people removed them to use other brands. Just what I heard, not sure if it is true. In any case, I could use a solution for good, effective wiper arms / blades. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 I'm also curious about the arms. Wiper blades never fit right. 1 Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Well, I think I found a solution. See, the problem is in the bail, the little bit of plastic that slips over the end of your wiper arm. It receives a flat piece of metal (the wiper arm end) and transfers the force to the windshield through rotation. Problem is, the shitty little plastic bail cannot hold up to a wiper stuck to the window by, say, frozen rain. So it fails. as it fails, the wiper blade chatters and becomes less effective quickly. So I found these ‘classic’ style blades from OhReally. They have steel bails and snap right on. since you see the name ‘classic’ you gotta think ‘pricey’. Nope: same price as the shitty ones. It is nice again today, so these will come off, along with the arms, for some flat black paint. 2 Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Holy crap. When you finally track down the problem and fix it, after a lot of screwing around trying to nail it down, it offers me a really strong mix of feelings. Elation, that I finally got the bastard, humility at knowing exactly how many times my hands were right next to it, without finding it. The EGR Valve has that herkin pipe that wraps round the back of the engine and connects to the exhaust manifold. You can never get it loose anywhere else but where it bolts to the intake manifold, on the other side. Typically, I find one bolt, and one stud with a nut, both 12mm, holding it on. The important thing is, it is threaded trough all the way only on one side. The other takes a bolt with a specific length. When reassembling, I accidentally switched these two and bottomed out one side without getting it fully tightened up onto the asbestos gasket. The result was that sometimes it leaked just a little, sometimes, it didn’t, making it the damnedest thing to track down. As soon as I ‘fixed‘ something to try to address the hesitation from idle, it seemed like it would work just fine and accelerate smoothly only to go back to hesitating a little again when warmed up. It is the change when warmed up that finally got me to go back to that connection. I decided to replace the gasket this afternoon and found my previous mistake. I switched them around, started the bolt side first, then tightened both sides up tight. as an interesting side note, those bolts do not want to get started and the stiffness of the tube itself makes it hard to beef it into place to start a thread or two. The solution I found was to use tie wraps (x3 eight inchers) to create a temporary sling to cinch it up in place so that all I needed to do was get a thread started. This revelation- the tie wrap sling- makes a really shitty job fairly easy. Last weekend, I nabbed an 86 ST cluster, mostly for the clock, which I need for the 4by. It also has a odo with only 67k on it, which is kind of neat. Sixty five bucks, delivered. You don’t think an honest fella like me would swap that low mileage odo into his 4x4 cluster, do ya? Now I have two spare tachs. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I like seeing high miles. I had a GMC with 290k on it, that thing had driven far enough to make it to the moon and start the trip back. The gauge cluster Grady sent me has 321k. It's like a badge of honor, 321 thousand miles of memories, probably a dozen different owners too. If cars could talk... 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Well, I think I found a solution. See, the problem is in the bail, the little bit of plastic that slips over the end of your wiper arm. It receives a flat piece of metal (the wiper arm end) and transfers the force to the windshield through rotation. Problem is, the shitty little plastic bail cannot hold up to a wiper stuck to the window by, say, frozen rain. So it fails. as it fails, the wiper blade chatters and becomes less effective quickly. So I found these ‘classic’ style blades from OhReally. They have steel bails and snap right on. since you see the name ‘classic’ you gotta think ‘pricey’. Nope: same price as the shitty ones. It is nice again today, so these will come off, along with the arms, for some flat black paint. How about a manufacturer and a part number for the wipers? Please! LOL Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 How about a manufacturer and a part number for the wipers? Please! LOL I like these wiper blades a lot. But, without thinking, I tossed all of the information about them into the bin at OReillys Auto Parts. I think they are very standard fare, nothing special order about them. They were in stock. The counter guy called them ‘Classic style’ or ‘Classics’ and they are generally sold for old car applications- even though they look nothing like the old Trico wiper blades. It is the metal attachment bail that makes the difference. These give me a clean wipe! 1 Quote Link to comment
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