Charlie69 Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Get plenty of vacuum line and if you have not replaced fuel filter and lines recently get them. You will like thew 38. 1 Quote Link to comment
TasoZ24 Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 had trouble with shipping over internet. ordered through carquest, be here THIS friday.getting front end parts tomorrow, wont make it go faster but feel better about doing it. going to see how carb works out. hopefully I can start working on interipr and curb appeal. 1 Quote Link to comment
TasoZ24 Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 doing the vacuum delete procedure, which lines are the ones that stay brake booster and distributor? just plug egr and others? 2 Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Yeah pretty much. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 Run the factory booster vacuum. Run the distributor vacuum off the Weber vacuum port. I kept the canister and the EGR on mine because every 2 years I have to emissions test and they check for vacuum at the EGR. I hook a live vacuum line to it when I pull in to the emissions testing place and after I pass I block of the EGR. 2 Quote Link to comment
TasoZ24 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Got it on. Can start it but only idles for a moment then dies. Been going by guide but not helping any. Any suggestions? I have thorley headers and turbo muffler. Hopefully dont need the rejet kit. 1 Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Shouldn't need the rejet kit. Should've came with the jets you need. Fuel issue maybe? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 doing the vacuum delete procedure, which lines are the ones that stay brake booster and distributor? just plug egr and others? Got it on. Can start it but only idles for a moment then dies. Been going by guide but not helping any. Any suggestions? I have thorley headers and turbo muffler. Hopefully dont need the rejet kit. Put hoses back on. 1 Quote Link to comment
TasoZ24 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Well ports are all closed. Only hose it calls for are dizzy advance all other vacuums have plugs and are (optional). Carbon canister still there but no connection on carb or adapter with kit. Starting from scratch in the morning. The carb was making strong vacuum sounds, not sure if normal. Sounds waaay better than hitachi even if only a couple secounds at a time at crap idle 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Webers are noisy. Look up the Mike Klotz air cleaner mod. he did it in an L motor air cleaner but it should be able to be done on the Z air cleaner as well. If it runs good it ain't broke! 1 Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 The vacuum sound your talking about is probably the carb sucking air. If you hold the throttle does it stay running? 1 Quote Link to comment
mmitchell57 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 The vaccume port on the side of the card on a 38/38 progressive is not functional. It's noted in the installation manual. You have to pull vacuum from the intake manifold for your distributor vacuum. I used the solid lines that were already bolted to the engine. There are three of them that run from the distributor area to the area close to the front of the engine near the carb. Just need one of the lines for vacuum. The 38/38 you should adjust to 2.5 screws on the mixture and adjust your time a degree or 2 on timing to get it to run smooth. From there do minor adjustments on fast and slow idles. Evertime you adjust timing or vacuum you will need to adjust your idles. Once you get all dandy, you can adjust your mixtures but make sure you adjust both the same at the same time if you are running a 38/38. Only adjust a quarter to a half turn at a time max. Then run it for a day or 2 to see how it does for you. I have both mine at 2.25 turns, low idle is 800, high idle is 1800, and timing is 5 degrees if I remember right. Runs like a raped ape now and when I get on it the engine sounds nice and angry. it will drink your gas, but meh, it's fun enough to where I don't care. Runs nice and smooth, no issues. The first gear lag I read about through the forums I don't have. I'm in a 85 2.4 with a 5 speed so maybe I out rev it when going into first. 2 Quote Link to comment
TasoZ24 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Getting a more sufficient fuel pump. I heard it shutting off while repressurizing this morning. It would idle ok for a second then die, then id have to wait to start again. Any suggestions for good fuel pumps? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 That's the fuel pump relay not the pump. You should be able to start the engine several times even without the electric pump working from the fuel in the float chamber. The electric pump merely keeps the carb full. If the carb is full it may shut off until the line pressure drops and it needs more. The fuel pump relay has a timer that runs the pump for 20 seconds? when you turn the ignition on. If you don't use the starter the timer shuts the pump off as you obviously don't need it. Overriding this is a starter input. The relay will trip to the on position any time the starter is engaged and start the timer process all over again once the starter is released. If the engine does not start, the fuel pump shuts off about 20 seconds later. If the engine does start before the timer shuts off, alternator output and oil pressure above 8 PSI inputs will keep the pump working. If there is no oil pressure (oil light on) OR no alternator output, the timer will time out and shut the pump off after 20 or so seconds. This is a safety device that shuts off fuel flow from the tank in the event of an accident. (and possible fire) It also shuts the engine down in the event of any loss of oil pressure, thus saving the engine. 2 Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 The vaccume port on the side of the card on a 38/38 progressive is not functional. It's noted in the installation manual. You have to pull vacuum from the intake manifold for your distributor vacuum. Seems to function on mine https://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/4412.pdf Scroll down to page 7 1 Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Just installed my weber, I was gonna either take a video of it all, or have a friend take pictures of every step I did but unfortunately I didn't have any friends over to help. But the parts that gave trouble was the throttle cable mount had to be opened up a little for it to fit, everyone says that tho. What I couldn't figure out for the longest time was what goes to the part that goes I to the hole that use to be where the Anti Backfire valve thing was, I'll take a picture of all that to clear it up for the next guy. I'm extremely happy with it tho, it actually has one steady idle, not 800 one second than jumping to 1500 the next second like my stock carb did! And it pulls harder. Sounds cool as fuck too, you can hear when the secondary opens, and it's cool. It sounds meaner forsure. what did you do with the Anti backfire valve? mine just hangs there open. I get pretty bad mileage with my weber. probably 150 miles per tank 1 Quote Link to comment
TasoZ24 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 I took it off and ran line from manifold to carbon canister 1 Quote Link to comment
mmitchell57 Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Seems to function on mine https://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/4412.pdf Scroll down to page 7 The install manual that came with mine was not anywhere near as nice. I only had a 2 page (front and back) sheet of paper to work with and a bunch of parts to figure out how they worked. I originally hooked up my distributor to that port and i wasn't getting any advance so I moved the vacuum and noticed there was none coming from the port. Maybe we have different models or something to that effect. If the picture is the one you have, we have very different models. The core looks the same but all the auxillery items look very different. Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 I don't know if it is the best way.....I plug off the crankcase pvc tube(large metal pipe) and plug my pvc into the elbow on top of the valve cover. Zero oil consumption....no vacuum leaks. Inside my valve cover looks as clean as the day nissan made it. I have always done it this way w/ weber........4-5 trucks(70,000miles+). Smoother idle is achievable if u go this route(crankcase sealed so constant vacuum). No more oil tainted air filter elements. 38/38 are not progressive.....both butterflies open at the same rate, also same dia. I want to swap throttle shafts from a progressive model onto my new 38/38. Had hoped to investigate/retrofit shafts if possible this past winter but never got 2 it. If swap/retrofit easily do-able it would improve throttle response and MPG. I know my Z22 would love more carb(32/36now)! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Seems to function on mine https://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/4412.pdf Scroll down to page 7 I have run across the vacuum port on some Webers have a little brass screw in them from the factory. Remove the screw and you have vacuum at the port. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 I don't know if it is the best way.....I plug off the crankcase pvc tube(large metal pipe) and plug my pvc into the elbow on top of the valve cover. Zero oil consumption....no vacuum leaks. Inside my valve cover looks as clean as the day nissan made it. I have always done it this way w/ weber........4-5 trucks(70,000miles+). Smoother idle is achievable if u go this route(crankcase sealed so constant vacuum). No more oil tainted air filter elements. Totally wrong if you are describing it correctly. The PCV simply vacuums out any fumes inside the crank case. It can't do that effectively if the block is sealed up. The air removed by the PCV has to be replaced by clean dry filtered air. The PCV works most effectively at idle and deceleration when vacuum is at it's highest. Under any load, intake vacuum is much lower and at full throttle the lowest, and blow by is always to be expected. Blow by will easily exceed what little manifold vacuum there is, and this pressure has to be vented, normally out the valve cover hose.. If you seal off the block it will have to find another way out. It will even push oil out the seals and gaskets. In addition, all the combustion by products (moisture, fuel fumes, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, carbon and burnt oil) have no where to go and will condense inside the engine requiring more frequent oil changes. ALWAYS run a PCV valve and proper block and valve cover vent. It will extend the oil life and keep the engine cleaner inside. You shouldn't have an oily air filter if the valve cover vent hose is properly installed. It should be between the carb opening and inside the air filter. This way, only filtered air is drawn in when manifold vacuum is higher than blow by. When crankcase pressure is more than the PCV can absorb it reverses out the valve cover hose and the fumes are sucked into the carb throat and burned. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 I have always thought about the PCV valve when installed properly like this, before the valve was put on engines, one was lucky to get a 100,000 miles out of an engine, since then engines normally have over 200,000 miles on them, it's common to see them with 300,000 in wrecking yards. Quote Link to comment
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