Weber instal question + my instal

[Justin Berni]

So I'm ordering a weber tonight.

First I wanna ask some questions before I instal, than I'll document my instal with plenty of pictures to help out the next guy who is as clueless as me.

 

So I actually have found a few good threads and videos on the instal, the main question that I still have is what do I do with all those vaccum lines, and the hose that goes from my valve cover to air cleaner??

[wayno]

So I'm ordering a weber tonight.

First I wanna ask some questions before I instal, than I'll document my instal with plenty of pictures to help out the next guy who is as clueless as me.

 

So I actually have found a few good threads and videos on the instal, the main question that I still have is what do I do with all those vaccum lines, and the hose that goes from my valve cover to air cleaner??

Normal weber airfilter housings have what you need to connect the valve cover hose to the airfilter, someone on here has a photo of the elbow you need or should buy.

[Justin Berni]

Could I just plug that hole or do I need it?

[Justin Berni]

And if I'm having dieselong problems right now when I shut it off, will the weber fix that, or do I need to buy a new anti dieselong solenoid?

[Justin Berni]

Dieseling*

[67_1600]

Some people just put a filter on the valve cover but do yourself a favor and just run a hose from the cover to the Weber air filter base - the carb ends up sucking in a lot of the fumes & smoke that would be coming from the valve cover otherwise. An air filter on the valve cover really doesn't do much to get rid of what naturally comes out.

[wayno]

You need the vent, if you plug it off, eventually you will blow out of every seal in your engine, you will leave a lake of oil everywhere you park.

I have the dieseling issue also, I don't even notice it anymore, I just turn the key off and let out the clutch at the same time while in gear.

[67_1600]

With regards to the dieseling, there could be any number of causes and it's hard to say whether a new carb will fix it though my first thought is that it won't. Here's a link with some possible causes:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieseling

[Justin Berni]

The dieseling is t really a huge concern, I was really just wondering.

I do the same thing Wayno.

Does the existing hose still fit on the weber from the valve cover? I could imagine it might be too short to reach, or maybe I'm over thinking this.

[wayno]

The dieseling is t really a huge concern, I was really just wondering.

I do the same thing Wayno.

Does the existing hose still fit on the weber from the valve cover? I could imagine it might be too short to reach, or maybe I'm over thinking this.

I don't know if the hose is long enough, I have only owned 1980 720s with an L20b, all the other running 720s I have owned were diesel powered.

You will likely have to fab a new hose up from something else, I would just go to the wrecking yard and hunt around till I found something the right size with the correct bends.

[Sealik]

Too short......You need about 1ft of hose to connect the valve cover to the air cleaner. The Weber kit (air cleaner) comes with the appropriate plastic 90 degree fitting to hook it up.

Set the timing/ idle etc to factory specs and make sure the motor is not running hotter than normal. If it still runs on....save a few bucks and just shut the engine off using the clutch.

Wire/secure those metal clips holding the top of the air cleaner on....if not....they'll eventually fall off...<.... MIA

 

Use locite on the studs and nuts holding the carb/adapter plates. No 'RTV' is needed if the surfaces are flat and clean

 

Assuming the Weber you are ordering is the real thing....... not a cheap knock off.

 

 

[Justin Berni]

Thanks Sealik, and yeah I'm getting it from Redline Weber, I'm assuming that's not knock off shit haha

[Justin Berni]

I'm assuming I can cap off a lot of the vacuum lines when I put my weber on, right guys??

[Justin Berni]

Is weber carbs direct a reliable place to get it from?

[mmitchell57]

The weber isn't to bad to install. Which one did you buy?  I picked up the 38/38. Don't over tighten the manifold adapters, they break really easy. Attach the threaded studs while the adapter is off the manifold. Read the instruction. Make sure you read closely related to the mixture screws. After the install and some other work the truck is running like a raped ape. However, I do need to do a valve adjustment.

 

Also, the dieseling can be a mixture of things, or one thing. If you have the stock carb, replacing that is a good start. I still had the problem after putting in the carb. After screwing with the mixture, timing, and high idle adjustment it eventually cleared up.

 

With vacuum, the only think you are required to have is the vacuum advance for the distributor. On a progressive carb you can run it off the passenger side of the carb. On a synchronous carb you have to tap into the intake manifold.

[Justin Berni]

I havnt ordered yet, doing it tonight.

But I'm getting the 32/36 instead of the 38 because fuel economy is more Importent than HP to me.

[mmitchell57]

Cool, on that one you can pull vacuum from the side of the carb. 

[Sealik]

Is weber carbs direct a reliable place to get it from?

 

Roll the dice.......order from Redline to be sure

 

 

On a synchronous carb you have to tap into the intake manifold.

 

Isn't the vacuum port above the throttle plate?....just like the 32/36?

[Sealik]

But I'm getting the 32/36 instead of the 38 because fuel economy is more Importent than HP to me.

 

You can get pretty good mileage from the 38/38 if you don't have your foot into it.

I managed to 29.4 MPG in my 720 4x4..........highway miles

[_chiefjt]

Yes, that's true. I have a 38 on mine and it gets pretty decent gas mileage if your not into it. But I recently put in a 4:375 rear end in it and still get good gas mileage. A full tank lasts me like 2 weeks I guess. So like $60 a month at $3.75 a gallon cause I run 91 octane but cheaper at $3.55 for reg. 87

 

So to put it all together, with the 3:7 rear end, like $50 a month on 91. With the 4:375 it's like $60 a month on 91. This is all street driving too not even freeway. On a 2 hr. freeway drive with the 3:7 it only used quarter tank if your cruising. lol

 

I've never tried a 32/36 so I couldn't compare. But I like the 38 cause it gives it that umph when you want it. I would suggest getting the 38 to anyone, some say it's too much carb for the motor but if you think about it wouldn't side drafts be waay too much.

[Justin Berni]

I still think I'm gonna stick with the 32/36, but I'm jealous of your gas prices..

[_chiefjt]

Yeah man, whichever one is best for you. And yeah, that gas price is the cheapest during summer, it gets even more cheaper when winter comes around. 

[bryant2482]

im running a 32/36 clone and on average i usually get about 250 miles on a full tank! and thats stop n go traffic ONLY!! im also running a 3.54 rear diff gears on 205/50/15 size tires. and i still have most of my smog stuff hooked up but it still likes to run rich and wont pass unless i pour a gallon of alcohol in the tank. i use to run the stock 3.89 gears with stock size wheels

[Justin Berni]

Just installed my weber, I was gonna either take a video of it all, or have a friend take pictures of every step I did but unfortunately I didn't have any friends over to help.

But the parts that gave trouble was the throttle cable mount had to be opened up a little for it to fit, everyone says that tho.

What I couldn't figure out for the longest time was what goes to the part that goes I to the hole that use to be where the Anti Backfire valve thing was, I'll take a picture of all that to clear it up for the next guy.

I'm extremely happy with it tho, it actually has one steady idle, not 800 one second than jumping to 1500 the next second like my stock carb did!

And it pulls harder.

Sounds cool as fuck too, you can hear when the secondary opens, and it's cool.

It sounds meaner forsure.

[TasoZ24]

hey there, my 38 should be here tomorrow. I live 40 miles away from town and would like to know exactly what im going to need for the installation. I have a 83 720 2wd kc. all smog stuff is connected and would like to delete all I can. before I get this old carb off and my truck undrivable, it would be helpful to have an idea of what I need so I dont drive into town praying the duct tape will hold up.