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Hrvat9

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Yes that transmission is useable.  If you are running an L series engine, you will need to put an L series bellhousing on the D21 transmission.  If running Z or KA then that trans is fine.  Likely have to have your driveshaft modified.

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Yes that transmission is useable. If you are running an L series engine, you will need to put an L series bellhousing on the D21 transmission. If running Z or KA then that trans is fine. Likely have to have your driveshaft modified.

Ah so I need an l series bell housing ... Which I might as well keep waiting for a tranny to pop up instead of taking this one out because it wouldn't bolt up

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  • 9 months later...

I always end up helping people with their projects and neglecting mine -_-, but now it's I n its new home, got a heated shop so shit actually is getting done. Sitting beside "batsun"

I got a Mitsubishi 4g63t alternator (90amp) which fit perfect so I used it. Just had to mod the uppper bracket a bit. So much easier to start the truck now :) this being a 77 it was externally regulated but someone put a hitachi internally regulated on it. Without knowledge I assumed that's how it was suppose to be so I thought alternator was shot. Turned out it was the battery. I kept the stock alt in case I ever need it later. Now it's charging at 15.5. With lights and blower on it goes to 14.9. Still too high ? I haven't done the wiring mod to the external reg yet, the charge light is on and when disconnected it goes out. Would that make a difference or is the regulator in my replacement alt going ?

 

IMG_0870_zpssqtqwscc.jpg

 

Couple of questions, what's the white wire here for??

IMG_0875_zpsjajoykqu.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had some ghetto fan switch hooked up / spliced in to bypass the oem switch. I took the "new" switch out and rewired the old one back up and only had the high setting blowing. Took out the connector at the heater and saw the coil was disconnected. Put it back on its posts and got the low setting back :)

 

So I did the wire mod with the new alt ; white/blk to white/red, and white to yellow. Does this keep the idiot light intact too? When I turn the key on my idiot light doesn't work now but did when plugged into the VR before the mod

 

Do I keep the VR plugged in now or do I ground the remainding black wire ? Is the white/blue wire for the charge light ?

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I had a 79 King Kab back in the early 80's.  I loved that truck!  I just picked up a 3rd member from a homemade trailer.  Planning to sell these parts, has good axles and a 3.70 r/p.

 

Sorry, buying and selling are only allowed in the classifieds... http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/5-drivetrain/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc  ...

 

A 3.70 would be from a 720 or newer truck.

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Hey mike , I started another thread about my idle but I'll continue it here. I took the cap off the distributor and wiggled the Vac advance and it's solid as frig. So I unscrewed it and pulled it out. I doesn't even move , it's stuck open completely! No wonder I couldn't change the idle.

Is there a way to get the diaphragm inside unstuck??

image_zps7ss1rd7l.jpg

image_zpsiswwu9qr.jpg

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Still don't get why I don't have the charge light on ..it's just like this old post

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7830-saturn-alternator-how-to-wire-in/page-3

 

I have everything wired properly but no light with key on. When I ground the L on the unplugged alt plug it turns on :/.

The white /black wire reads 4.60v and the white /red reads 9.60v. Those are the wires off the external VR that have to be joined. Should they have the same voltage?

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