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#801 DatMo

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 10:48 PM

I had like 30 minutes so I got my aos where I want but I need to get an elbow that fits into the cannon manifold with a 3/8 nipple to connect the other side.

The car is gonna be on a major hold while I go to school. I’ll probably do super small stuff to it and turn it on every so often. It’ll always lurk in my mind. I can’t wait to upgrade rear brakes and get these damn carbs going .


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Located in SoCal.

Just trying to figure it out.


#802 DatMo

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 11:38 AM

I'm going to lose the siderafts and put on a 32/36 dgv just because it's easier to tune and I'll be able to drive the car more. 

I've got a bunch of goodies coming and that I was able to get for stupid cheap so it was worth it.

 

I won't touch the car because I'm currently in school but I plan to definitely make some game changes as far as my cooling system and carb setup. 

I'm also planning to an alternator upgrade because my volts are reading 12 and the zx alt just doesnt put out as much as I'd like for everything I use.

 

I'm gonna run an inline thermostat sensor just because they're more accurate as far as coolant. I'm gonna make some hard fuel lines to make a cleaner setup.

I eventually wanna get longer spark plugs that don't sit on top of my valve cover but I don't know where I'd even get those and that's not as important as the car working.

 

I still more than just about anything want a rear disc setup for a wagon. I hate drums more than life lolll

 

On a side note, i picked up a set of 5 14x6.5 +6 Advan a3a for an unbelievable price so I'm gonna go with gun metal centers and polished lip.

Figured it would be a nice setup. 

 

Sidenote: No, im not gonna sell my dellortos, I'm gonna get them jetted and venturies set to match my l20b setup and run them again down the line but I'm not that knowledgeable about these carbs. A 32/36 is the first carb I ever rebuilt so I'm just really familiar with it. I want to drive the goon!


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#803 Lockleaf

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 06:14 PM

Get universal plug wires that you assemble yourself, then you can make the wires whatever length you want

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

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#804 DatMo

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 12:57 AM

I haven’t been able to work on this car much since I don’t live near it.

with that said I got a few things done.

One issue I’m concerned about is how the rear disc swap works for the 510 wagon. I used the brackets and removed the backing plate entirely.

Meaning that my axle only has a bearing and it’s into the housing through just that. Can anyone explain to me how the wheel doesn’t fly the hell off?

Located in SoCal.

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#805 DatMo

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 11:39 AM

So... unfortunately, I realized I wasnt supposed to completely cut off the backing plate on the wagons.

Lesson learned.

 

With that said, does anyone have pictures of backing plate and/or know the ID of the backing plate hole?

I'm going to create a piece of 1/16th or 1/8th metal piece that I can just cut the center hole and drill four holes along the sides in order to hold the bearing into position.

 

I was also concerned with the lengths of the actual axle bolts holding the bracket. Is there a way to get longer ones or maybe get something a bit safer?


Located in SoCal.

Just trying to figure it out.


#806 DatMo

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 04:53 PM

I ended up getting some slide on slips that basically act as a backing plate. Picking them up tomorrow.

 

I still have no information regarding those bolts that hold the backing plate into the housing. They're too short so I'm probably gonna get some bolts myself and grind off a side to round it and replace it. 

I got my new carb setup and I want to assume at this point that my headlight issue is my switch so I'm just going to wire a random switch to turn everything on at once. I'll have my highbeams pointed downwards because honestly, my lowbeams are damn bright. 


Located in SoCal.

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#807 DatMo

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 01:34 AM

Got my breaks setup and these are the little slip ons I got made that basically act as a backing plate.
For extended bolts, I just shaved one side off of some and went from there. Brakes are working great!!


Now I do have a few concerns.
I have a coolant leak that’s somewhere on my intake??? I can’t find exactly where. Any thoughts? I have it plugged near the carb and it’s dropping onto my block and burning

Located in SoCal.

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#808 Draker

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 10:40 AM

You can pressure test it to 15psi and find the leak. Most likely it's the intake gasket. Make sure you have a nice even torque on all intake and exhaust manifold bolts/nuts.


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#809 DatMo

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 11:01 AM

You can pressure test it to 15psi and find the leak. Most likely it's the intake gasket. Make sure you have a nice even torque on all intake and exhaust manifold bolts/nuts.


That’s the first thing ill do is make sure everything is tight. After that, I’m wondering what the hole on the side of the block is? My last l series had a pipe coming out of it. It’s the hole under the headers near the third cylinder.

Located in SoCal.

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#810 Draker

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 11:42 AM

It's the block vent

 

IMAG0442_zpsvtuwva8j.jpg


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#811 DatMo

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 01:13 PM

It's the block vent

IMAG0442_zpsvtuwva8j.jpg

Ahhh makes sense. So I’ll just put it into the pcv system. Is it threaded or something?

I have a catch can that my valve cover shoots to and the bottom of my air cleaner is connected to that as well. It’s baffled. I’ll just t into the line from the valve cover

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#812 datsunfreak

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 03:50 PM

Ahhh makes sense. So I’ll just put it into the pcv system. Is it threaded or something?

 

No sir, there's a metal tube that sticks into it. 

 

There are at least 5 or 6 different tubes they used depending on what it was in and what carbs. But something like this...

 

51.jpg


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#813 DatMo

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 02:45 AM

No sir, there's a metal tube that sticks into it.

There are at least 5 or 6 different tubes they used depending on what it was in and what carbs. But something like this...

51.jpg


Ahhh need me one of those

Located in SoCal.

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#814 Draker

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 10:39 AM

Ahhh need me one of those

 

If you have an L20, I've got what you need. It's been sand blasted, primed and painted black. PM if interested.


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#815 yenpit

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 04:28 PM

Yup block vent to PCV......pretty sure all of the tubes are all the same diameter, including the Z 6cyl.  Keep in mind that whatever tube you install needs to clear whatever exhaust manifold or header you use!  Had a buddy custom fab up a header for a vintage race 510 on a mock up block & head, went to install on the built engine, that tube did NOT clear his new header!  Man was he pissed!!  :sneaky:  



#816 Draker

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 05:35 PM

I had to modify one to work with the SU's. So it will matter what intake and exhaust you are using. Here is the one I have (black) and the one I modified and how it fits with the SU's
 
20160320_141319_zpsqwwtffrv.md.jpg
20160320_141409_zpsnukhwbtk.md.jpg
20160320_205533_zpsxgfbpr7g.md.jpg
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View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.. ish

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#817 DatMo

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 07:50 PM

This is some great info! I'm excited to get this done and going at this point. Gotta fix the damn small coolant leak and I can potentially daily this thing. 


Located in SoCal.

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#818 DatMo

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 10:14 AM

Gonna do a hydro parking brake. Just to confirm because the photobucket pictures are down, all you do is tap into the rear brake like right before it splits and then bleed the brakes normally or from that new ebrake?

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#819 datsunfreak

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 06:11 PM

Gonna do a hydro parking brake. Just to confirm because the photobucket pictures are down, all you do is tap into the rear brake like right before it splits and then bleed the brakes

 

FWIW, that's what I did. Took a stainless line from the end of the rear brake line to the e-brake, then another line from that back to where the rear line plugged into the T. Then bled as normal. 

 

Did use a power bleeder initially, though. That helped get most of the air out quickly. 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#820 DatMo

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 06:27 PM

FWIW, that's what I did. Took a stainless line from the end of the rear brake line to the e-brake, then another line from that back to where the rear line plugged into the T. Then bled as normal. 

 

Did use a power bleeder initially, though. That helps get all the air out. 

 

I'm a little confused. when you said you took the line from the rear brake. 

 

I was thinking all i had to do was literally put a t into the brake line right before it splits, then bleed my brakes?


Located in SoCal.

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