Hondanx250 Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Should change the title to Broken Bolt(My Bad) But i don't know how Hey Guys, So i was working on my Datsun and i broke a bolt inside the cylinder block. I tried to extract it with no reveal. (already messed it up) I thought i should come he and ask for advice before i mess it up anymore. Should i just drill it out and re thread it? Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Have you tried using an easy out? You might get lucky. Just DONT BREAK THE EASY OUT! Its harder than most drill bits and will be way harder to remove Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 this is what I would do. drill it out with a drill bit put pick a size and a good STRONG bit. and get a hole going to get a ez out. Dont break the drill bit in there or the ez out otherwise you might be screwed. amazing that bolt is stuck. one only needs like 7-12 pounds on those bolts if that Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Well i tired the easy out and it didn't work. and yes it did break inside the bolt. So i might just have to try drilling it. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Drilling an easy out is not as easy as it sounds. The drill is going to want to wander off the hard easy out and into the soft metal of the block. Go slow and check it often. Slow rpms lots of lube and check your work often. Dont let your drill bit heat up. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Drilling an easy out is not advisable. You will try, I know. But I have ended up finding a way to grip the remaining easy out just enough to wiggle and twist it out. You may find a center punch and hammer, rapping the easy out in every direction will get it loose enough to turn. If you can get anything to grab it. This will only work if the easy out is not deeply recessed. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Weld another bolt to it.Good luck trying to drill an easy out. Quote Link to comment
Eomund Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Drilling an easy out is not advisable. You will try, I know. But I have ended up finding a way to grip the remaining easy out just enough to wiggle and twist it out. You may find a center punch and hammer, rapping the easy out in every direction will get it loose enough to turn. If you can get anything to grab it. This will only work if the easy out is not deeply recessed. This. Easy outs are made of high tempered steel, not really able to drill through out. If needed, drill some small little holes around where it's stuck and break apart the broken bolt to give you access to it. Again, be VERY careful to not drill anything but the bolt. Johns idea of welding a bolt to it can work too, but again, be careful to not weld it to, what is that the block? If I'm not mistaken that looks like a bolt that holds on the timing chain cover. You will need that bolt, so don't just do without. You'll likely end up getting water in your oil system which is never good. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Get a few tungsten carbide grinding bits. They are not cheap. A little one for a dremel will be like $12.. Get one to flatten the surface a bit.. Get a center punch and punch the center of the bolt. Drill it... Keep drilling until it's the same size or slightly larger. Tap.. Pray to god all the metal shavings are out of your engine. Done. For reference: 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Take the money you were going to buy easy out's with... throw it off a cliff. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 That's the long water pump bolt right? (how do I know? :blush: )Easy out is high carbon steel as tough as a drill bit. A drill will only put a shine on it. Late now but always try to get the largest drill hole you can into the end of the bolt. This serves two functions. One ... it allows the largest easy out and two the thin ring of bolt left can deform easier and loosen it's grip on the engine block.If you have a stick welder, crank up the amps and touch a 3" long 1/8" rod carefully to the end. Be ready to shut off the power quick. The stick should weld itself to the end. Vice-grips on the rod and try reversing the tap out. May take several tries but the weld will build up. Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 This. Easy outs are made of high tempered steel, not really able to drill through out. If needed, drill some small little holes around where it's stuck and break apart the broken bolt to give you access to it. Again, be VERY careful to not drill anything but the bolt. Johns idea of welding a bolt to it can work too, but again, be careful to not weld it to, what is that the block? If I'm not mistaken that looks like a bolt that holds on the timing chain cover. You will need that bolt, so don't just do without. You'll likely end up getting water in your oil system which is never good. Yeah, Its the bolt for the timing bolt cover. I think it just got worn from overnight in the past. Engine was rebuilt prior to me getting the car. Its a z20s. Honestly it probably be cheaper to find me a l20b engine and just swap it out. Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 That's the long water pump bolt right? (how do I know? :blush: ) Easy out is high carbon steel as tough as a drill bit. A drill will only put a shine on it. Late now but always try to get the largest drill hole you can into the end of the bolt. This serves two functions. One ... it allows the largest easy out and two the thin ring of bolt left can deform easier and loosen it's grip on the engine block. If you have a stick welder, crank up the amps and touch a 3" long 1/8" rod carefully to the end. Be ready to shut off the power quick. The stick should weld itself to the end. Vice-grips on the rod and try reversing the tap out. May take several tries but the weld will build up. Thanks for the Advice. I will Try the stick welder tip. I Just dont want the bolt to get welded in. Or my last resort would be to just weld the chain guard on. Could i run the car without the chaingaurd first to see if the timing is correct or is that a big no? Thanks Ryan would to be Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Doesn't it go through the water pump though? I fucked mine trying to remove the timing cover without removing the water pump. Lessen learned. The L20B block would work but the Z20S head's combustion chamber is too large for the dished L20B pistons. You would have to swap the pistons and rods also. Basically rebuild it. Easier to remove that bolt. I see now... it's the bolt for the guide. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Thanks for the Advice. I will Try the stick welder tip. I Just dont want the bolt to get welded in. Or my last resort would be to just weld the chain guard on. Could i run the car without the chaingaurd first to see if the timing is correct or is that a big no? Thanks Ryan would to be Put the chain guide in place using the top bolt. Drill a hole through the chain guide just above the old one and start the hole into the block. Remove the chain guide out of the way and continue drilling into the block. Tap the hole and use a new bolt. Slot the hole in the chain guide. Done. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Put the chain guide in place using the top bolt. Drill a hole through the chain guide just above the old one and start the hole into the block. Remove the chain guide out of the way and continue drilling into the block. Tap the hole and use a new bolt. Slot the hole in the chain guide. Done. You certain there is no waterway or anything like that above that bolt? I wanted to recommend this action, but it occurred to me that I don't know for certain what is back there to drill into. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Who cares? Blue thread locker, boom... done. Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Put the chain guide in place using the top bolt. Drill a hole through the chain guide just above the old one and start the hole into the block. Remove the chain guide out of the way and continue drilling into the block. Tap the hole and use a new bolt. Slot the hole in the chain guide. Done. Sounds like a good idea. Thanks, I will check it out and see if there seems to be a passage way behind it Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 isn't that the lower slack side guide hole?????? I think a sloppy chain might wack the guide and shear the bolt Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Along the lines of the welding.......I'd use a nut instead of a bolt......and a mig welder. Hold the nut, centered over the bolt.....same size or slightly smaller.....point the mig wire down the center and pull the trigger. You'll want to get the weld started on the bolt and build up into the nut. Once it's cooled a bit, you should be able to turn it out. The extreme heat helps to break any bond that got the bolt stuck. I don't think the steel will stick to the cast iron all that well, but try to not weld the bolt to the block. Jodi on weldingtipsandtricks.com has some great examples of how to do this. 1 Quote Link to comment
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