installing a 83 200sx dizzy in lieu of a l16 dizzy

[sebpv]

Hi, been having issue with my truck. I havent been able to start it since the rebuild and cant seem to pin-point the issue. It has fuel and compression but the coil wont spark. now I read the dizzy can contribute to the issue a few ways which I all checked and still cant get a spark. So I considered using the ignition system from my friend. The system was on a runni g car not long ago, so I can trust it works.

 

Now the new issue is that I dont know how to configure it to only 1 coil and 4 of the 8 plugs on the dizzy. Furthermore there is a module going with it and I just finished understanding tbe principles behind the points system...

 

Im almost certain theres a way around it. No dont ask me about a matchbox or a EI dizzy or a pertronix. Im curious about THIS type of dizzy. I appreciate your constructive input.

 

If someone is willing to walk through all the potential problems I could be facing with the points, Ill give it a shot. But dont direct me to other posts, I read them all...Im already trying those solutions. Thanks guys

[datzenmike]

Simple.  This may seem redundant but lets not assume and make sure you have a problem. Can't fix or chase a problem that does not exist.

 

Place an old plug in the coil wire to the dizzy cap and lay on a grounded surface . Crank engine. Is there spark?

 

If no.... go down to NEXT

If yes, replace wire and try one of the plug wires.

 

If no, then there is a problem with either the cap or the rotor.

If yes... no problem

 

 

NEXT... Disconnect the coil and check the resistance across the two terminals with a meter. Infinite resistance means the wire inside is broken and the coil needs replacing. Any reading on the resistance scale means it is working.

 

You need power to the + side of your coil and a ground on the other side. The ground is made and broken by your points.

 

POWER...

Get  a test lamp or meter and check for voltage on the + side of coil with key ON and in the START position. Roughly 8 volts ON and 12 volts START. No power in START likely means the ignition key is faulty.   No voltage in ON most likely means the ballast resister is bad but it should at least fire up and stall.

 

GROUND...

Clean and set your points or replace them. They are under the rotor under the cap on the dizzy. Bump the engine until one of the four lobes (or bumps) is under the points so that they are open, and set this gap to 0.022" or the thickness of a folded cover of a paper match book. This will be close enough to get you started. Make sure the dizzy is snugly bolted down and well grounded.

 

 

One of these things should get you going or pinpoint a problem other than the dizzy.... which replacing would not help, would it???

[datzenmike]

Assuming the S110 200sx dizzy would fit your L16.....

 

There are eight plug wires, two EI coils, two rotor contacts under the cap and two electric ignition (EI) outputs from a single module used on the Z22E engine.

 

1/ Use one EI coil from the 200sx. Your points coil will over heat and fry, do not use it..

 

2/ Check where the high tension lead from the coil goes through the cap and to which rotor contact it goes. Each rotors feeds only 4 plugs. One rotor contact for the four intake side plugs and one for the four exhaust side plugs. Pick one, doesn't matter which. The cap is marker E and I  foe intake and exhaust side plugs.

 

3/ Now remove the opposite wires from the cap.... the ones you are not using. (every other wire)

 

4/ Disconnect the ballast resistor wires and join them together to remove it from the circuit. The old + wire to the coil should go to the new + EI coil terminal.

 

5/The EI dizzy module will have three wires. A Brown wire with power that is on during start and run, and two ground wires (probably Red or White/Blue stripe) for the ground side of the two coils. Pick one coil wire, either one.

[sebpv]

Wow your information is very thorough. Thank you for that

 

Now to add on that:

DIZZY: new rotor, cap, plugs and wires, i gapped the points breaker to .019( range being .018-.022). Also I would appreciate your input on my understanding of the dizzy: Current flows from cap--rotor--to points. On the harness side it goes from harness--advanced/retard wires--through dizzy body[condensor in parallel]--wire link--points breaker. On the ground side, I see from harness--ground wire--to body--grounded on points breaker plate.

Now one problem I could see is one wire inside tbe dizzy being broken as the fabric is worn down, BUT I tested the resistance and shows OK. Also I dont know how to test a condensor.I have a spare one since I removed all the retarded side.

 

COIL: there is current going to the coil with the key ON. the test light is dim compared to testing the battery tho( 8v vs 12v?). The resistor knows 1500ohms. But didnt check the voltage with power. I can say its very hot. The coil itself would be warm to the touch if key left ON. Unfortunately I see no spark coming out of it with a wire.

 

FUEL: is good: i found that the hose leaks every time...so I retighten. Hopefully its fixed

 

COMPRESSION: engine is rebuilt...by me ;) New seals, gaskets, piston rings. Cold valve lash done ...In case you think spark is not made because of low compression

[datzenmike]

Power from the ignition key in the START position goes directly to the coil+ terminal, through the primary coil windings and to the - coil terminal. From there to the points which open and close as the engine cranks over with the starter. A full 12 volts is fed to the coil for maximum strength spark while cranking.

 

Power from the ignition key in the ON position goes to the ballast resistor to drop it to about 7-8 volts. This is as much as any points can stand without excessive arcing and wearing out in 50-100 miles of driving. Likewise the coil would overheat too. From there to the + coil terminal, through the primary windings to the - terminal. From there to the points which open and close to ground.

 

Coils are made of an outer primary and an inner secondary coil of wire. The secondary has more windings and is grounded on one side and goes to the high tension lead to the dizzy on the other.... operation is thus... Current flow through the primary windings produces a strong magnetic field while the points are closed. At the proper time the points open, current flow stops, the magnetic field collapses, inducing a much higher voltage pulse in the secondary winding which travels through the plug wires to the spark plug, across the cap and to ground.

 

 

If not sure if the condenser is good or bad, disconnect it. This will not hurt it in the short term, it's only to reduce arcing that wears out the points in the long term. If the engine runs without the condenser but won't run with it, then it is obviously bad. Replace.