jimmy billy Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 So i got a suzuki 1150 carb set and he gave me a box full of different jets and some open up alot then some other ones. Their new in bagys with id numbers. Is anyone good at doing this that can point me in the right direction for my l16? If needed i can post pics of what i got. Quote Link to comment
jimmy billy Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 They get bigger ports the biger the number is. The last one is prity big. Only can find bike info on the net. When i get back to town if i have to ill go to the bike shop and see if they know. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 If those are 36mm carbs and your L16 is stock, the DJ 144 1.44mm main may actually be too small. I would start with that, but I wouldn't be surprised if you wind up with a 1.55 or bigger main though. To be safe you want to start big and work your way down, so be careful. You don't want to push it hard with too small a main. You can by jets online here for $4 a pop. http://www.playmorpower.com/dynojet-dj-series-individual-main-jets-detail.htm?productid=9399252 Quote Link to comment
jimmy billy Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Ahhhhhhhhhhh see that makes more sence now. I was reading in the R1 carbs thread and their was one guy talkin about "a 1.6 gets a 1.6 and a 1.8 gets a 1.8" im guessing he ment "1.60"..... he was also sayin that after 2,0L it goes up by 4 or something like that. But yes at the time my motor is stock. Mite do a little porting but thats it for now. I was even smart and baught the guys shop manuel so i have a full break down of the carbs and how to put them back together :-D Thank you good sir. The numbers were their i just didnt know how to read them. Now i wonder what measurement thats in so maybe i can take to a machin shop budy about just drillin a extra set i have out........ 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 You can also fill a too big jet with solder and drill them out to a smaller size. Quote Link to comment
jimmy billy Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Datzenmike do you know what type of measuring their using for those jets? Like for the inside diameter.... just so i know what to look for fordrill bits. Im super stoked on this. Cant wait to start making my intake. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Can be very complicated. Some may be in thousandths of an inch some in mm. Soe jets are calibrated by the flow in cc's per min. There should be something in the 50 odd pages of the R1 thread. The hole is circular in a jet so a small increase makes a large change in flow. Double the diameter will increase the flow by 4 times! (give or take) and not double. To double the flow you only have to increase the jet diameter by 41.5% Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Slow down with the drills. Not recommended. In my experience drilling your jets will get you inconsistend results. With an aperture that size, even just a small imperfection can change the flow dramatically. When you can get a new set of four for $16 it doesn't make sense to buy drills and diy it. 2 Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 jimmy billy, on 16 Aug 2014 - 08:18 AM, said: Ahhhhhhhhhhh see that makes more sence now. I was reading in the R1 carbs thread and their was one guy talkin about "a 1.6 gets a 1.6 and a 1.8 gets a 1.8" im guessing he ment "1.60"..... ....... That might be a crude rule of thumb for a starting point, but with any modification to the intake or exhaust you can throw that trick out the door. When I installed a Vans & Hines pipe on my GSXR 1100 I had to jump my mains .5mm to compensate for the larger air flow. The ugly truth is you likely won't get much out of those carbs until you get the head breathing a bit better. Porting, bigger valves, a cam, and a free flowing exhaust and that little thing will scream bloody murder. You can pick up a spare head and do a little work at a time. Slap that thing in and the fun really begins. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 perhaps 'drilling' was a bit harsh..... 1 Quote Link to comment
jimmy billy Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Yes i do agree guys. Those new jets are prity cheap. I deffinetly would like to get her screaming. :-D ill look into geting the new jets and maybe talk to a few of the bike shops in town and see if any have ever done this before. Anyone have an idea of where to start for size wise if i did do a mild port and free flowing exaust?? Just for a starting point..... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Well a wide band O2 sensor is a good start. Instantly displays your a/f ratio while running. Quote Link to comment
jimmy billy Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Ahhhh yes that would deffenetly help. What you figure is should be siting at datzenmike?? Ill get one of those asap. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 No idea for those or the R1 carbs. Surely the R1 post has some general rules on starting points for jets. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Not R1, those are 42mm carbs his are mid 80s GS 1150 36mm CV Mikuni. He might have to start blind, but not ignorant. JB, Once you get above 150 jets it goes up by .5mm increments. If you can swing it I would start conservatively with 1.65mm and lean down from there. Those carbs have an idle adjust screw so you'll adjust to get a stable idle. With the 02 gauge you'll be getting an average reading, so it's important to check the plugs once or twice as you begin, just to see if there's any issue one one cylinder. Before jetting you'll want to pull the diaframes and raze the needles first. The primary jet along with the needle is what controls 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Razing = richer, lower = leaner. When your doing your main jetting, test throughout the full range of throttle positions not just WFO. Fortunately with the carbs mounted on the car you should have plenty of room to work on them, so you won't have to remove them every time you re-jet. And if you have an 02 sensor, you won't need to pull plugs over and over to see were your at. These two advantages will literally cut your tuning time down by 75%. Quote Link to comment
jimmy billy Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Sweet! Awsome info :-D cant wait to get this happining. Quote Link to comment
red13 Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 came across this for you http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf Quote Link to comment
jimmy billy Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Holy fack guy thank you! 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.