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A15 sounds like a helicopter, or old peugeot


rbastedo

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Saturday I returned home after 15 days in Alaska and then on Sunday I ran my car out about 80 miles to my mother in law's 81st birthday party.

It was running great - part way.

I returned on the ferry and when I started up the car it sounded rough, and had less power.

It idles fine, but revving it sounds like "puh puh puh" instead of the normal "vroom".

It burns oil and last time it had similar symptoms I replaced the plugs and it ran fine.

 

I've replaced plugs, put a spark tester on and verified I have spark at all 4 plugs, checked the carbs and they are fine.

Next I plan to check my compression at all 4 cylinders to make sure something in there hasn't broken.

Just strange it ran so great until I got on the ferry then like crap when I got off it.

The only other thing I did was fill up with gas over there but that was at a large chain so I don't really suspect the gas.

 

Any other thoughts?

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Were any of the plugs whiter or cleaner than the others? White porcelain indicates a lean carb. You said carbs??? If there is a clean plug then the carb feeding it is lean.

 

If not....

 

Pull each plug off one at a time. The one that has the least change isn't up to snuff. Valve clearance could be off, head gasket blowing/blown.

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Start it up, then pull each plug wire till you find which one doesn't change the the engines rhythm, that would likely be the bad cylinder, now if 2 of them next to each other don't effect the engine rhythm, then it's likely a headgasket, if only one then check your exhaust valve clearance in that cylinder if it is not popping out the carbs, if it is popping out the carb, and the intake valve clearance is good, and you need to get home, remove that plug wire and get it home.

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I did a compression test, have about 20 lbs in #4. frown.png

That last rocker bolt was always iffy, I guess it came loose.
Any thoughts on securing a stripped out rocker bolt in an aluminum head?

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Valves closed compression would be maximum. Low compression could be valve(s) not seating completely, (possibly a tight valve that's not adjusted) broken piston, blown head gasket.

 

For now check the valve lash on that cylinder. Maybe too tight and not closing.

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I need to pull that cover and see.exactly what's going on under it.

Hope it isn't a broken piston, I guess if the rockers and valves appear good I will rerun the compression test to be sure I did it right before pulling the head again.

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Valves and springs and rockers all check good.

Bummer that wasn't it.

Timing was retarded about 15 degrees, I adjusted it and got more power but engine sounds terrible.

I need to retrace and make sure my compression test was correct, my plug leads are on right and I have good gas.

I'll do all that today after work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My current plan is to put in new pistons & rings and rod bearings.

My question is about head gaskets.

 

A friend who has a similar setup is recommending I buy a GX head gasket, he says he was having problems getting the HG to last until he did this.

I see one for sale buy a Japanese vendor on Ebay for $55, steep for a HG by US standards but if it lasts better then it's worth it.

Any of you have experience with this, or opinions about it?

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Valves and springs and rockers all check good.

 

They may look good but did you check the valve clearances????

 

Crank engine over and watch the rocker arms move.

 

 

My current plan is to put in new pistons & rings and rod bearings.

My question is about head gaskets.

 

A friend who has a similar setup is recommending I buy a GX head gasket, he says he was having problems getting the HG to last until he did this.

I see one for sale buy a Japanese vendor on Ebay for $55, steep for a HG by US standards but if it lasts better then it's worth it.

Any of you have experience with this, or opinions about it?

 

You're getting ahead of your self here. This could simply be a blown head gasket. An easy $30 fix.

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I just don't see any reason to spend time and money replacing the head gasket again (last one lasted only 3 months) when it burns that much oil.

When I get the head off I'll measure the cylinders and also make sure they are perfectly round.

If it's out of spec I may pull it and replace it with one of my other engines.

My engine stand should be on the Fedex truck today I potentially I could start working on these things this weekend.

At a minimum I'd like to get one of the engines mounted on the stand and start pulling it apart.

I know I should take the head to a shop and have it tested and whatever it needs fixed and realistically however long that takes is probably the time I will need to get the rest of the work finished anyway.

Since I drive this car all the time it would be real nice to have the motor at least so it doesn't burn oil any more.

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  • 2 years later...

If the valves have smacked the pistons the will put little dents in the tops but if you are running a stock cam this isn't likely unless the rocker was so loose that the pushrod flopped over to one side and hung the valve open.........ask me how I know these things.

 

If the motor is eating head gaskets inspect the block and head carefully. Here I the desert we've horribly abused them and never had issues. My buddies brother would run his A12 powered car dry and then force water in it and run it some more while it was still trying to boil over, he's the only one I knew who ever popped a head gasket that wasn't due to corrosion or somebody getting the motor smoking hot. My B210 was burning a quart every 80 miles befor I gave in and rebuilt it. With a car burning that much oil the tend to ping which is not nice to head gaskets. When my b210 did as you described it burnt a valve.

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