84 KC 4x4 Rescue

[IvyRacer]

After months of searching, I finally found this truck a few hours up in the hills northeast of Sacramento.  It's a surprising PITA to find a 720 in this region for less than $2000 (that isn't beat to heck, or hundreds behind in registration fees).  This one has a clean title and loads of potential.  The guy I bought it from said he saved it from a redneck who roller & brush painted it the awful silver it is now. 

 

 

Every piece of trim is either covered by the sloppy silver, or sprayed with primer.

 

 

He rolled garbage right over all the original '84 4x4 decals.

 

 

The only explanation he offered for his murder of a perfectly good, original, exterior was that "*shrug* he didn't like".  I can't imagine someone not loving what it looked like before!  It looked like this one before with the copper paint:

 

 

It may take me some time, but I hope to restore it to this level of awesomeness.  Finding replacement decals is going to be the real challenge.  For now, I'm focusing on making her a reliable multipurpose vehicle.  I need a commuter, a tool, and a toy.  It has low miles, and runs ok right now.  The PO says he replaced a bunch of parts after he got it from the redneck, including the head gasket, but it started losing coolant and leaking from the back of the hg.  The temperature slowly creeps up to the bad zone.  He kept driving it, just adding water... so now the whole system is coated with a fine sludgy rust.  Oh, and he forgot the thermostat.  So...

 

I have a lot of work ahead of me.  She's filthy, inside and out, which I'm addressing as I go down my check list:

 

1) Overheating issue - installed thermostat, sent radiator to get cleaned and/or repaired, installed new water pump, and I retorqued the head bolts hoping that I can buy some time before I have to redo his botched job.  Heck, it may just fix the leak.

 

2) "Meh" Running Condition - changed the oil, adjusted the timing, adjusted the carburetor, and I am researching how to adjust the valves (never done it before).  I'll also be changing the fluid in a manual trans, transfer case, and rear dif for the first time.

 

3) Worn Suspension - I've started with chipping away at the inches of dried mud and grime so I can start replacing worn or broken parts.  May have to wait for funds on this part....

 

4) MUSIC - I can deal with how ugly the outside is (for now), but I have to have music in my daily driver.  I picked up an older Pioneer deck for $5 at a swap meet, but I'll have to figure out how to splice it in... oh, and it doesn't fit in any of the existing holes.  If anyone knows an alternative to hacking into the dash, I'm all ears.  Or maybe just a method to cut cleanly into the 30 yr old plastic? :-\

 

5) Air Conditioning - the compressor isn't seized, so I'm guessing there was a leak somewhere so the belt was removed.  I plan to make the system functional, but haven't decided if I'm going to try to restore the original system, or just drop some money into a modern one.  Either way, it gets too darn hot here to not have it.

 

And.... more pictures!

 

 

Most of the ugly is just dirt (every switch, latch, lever, and light works very well), but some of the plastic is actually quite sun damaged.  If I can't find replacements, I'll look into restoring/painting the plastic pieces.  I might go for a black/tan interior, just because I like the way the contrast looks.

 

 

DIRT EVERYWHERE, haha.  This photo was taken AFTER I blew out the engine bay with my air compressor.  It was worse, if you can imagine that.

 

 

 

I'll be looking for a transfer case shifter boot, too...

 

 

He missed a spot!  There is still some copper in the engine bay :-P

 

 

I still haven't decided if I'm going to hang onto the rack, or sell it to pay for a camper shell.  And when I get around to repainting her, I'll get a better fender for the passenger side.  PO was hit by a deer late one night apparently.

 

 

[datzenmike]

The valve cover has clips for keeping all the plug wires sorted and out of the way. Get them from a wrecking yard. Looks neater and less chance of wire damage up out of the way.

 

Radio/CD player goes here

 

Look for the clock option. It's plug and play into your dash. (you may have to add a fuse to the box)

[IvyRacer]

I work late nights, but if I can manage to wake up early enough on my next day off, I'll be able to hit the local junk yard before it hits 100+. Those are all excellent additions to my pick-a-part checklist! I love having an analog clock (my first car, a Volvo 240 had one). And as far as the clips that hold the wires out of the way, should I be concerned about heat damage right now? I can try to zip tie them in the mean time if it's that serious. I don't want to have to buy new wires yet.

 

I drove her to work today with no problems. The new water pump, coolant, rebuilt radiator, thermostat, and belt are all performing as they should. I retorqued the head bolts, then tested compression and got 180-179-181-180... so as far as I can tell, I dodged a bullet there. But only time will tell. Man, I should have taken a picture of the radiator when I pulled it, because I've never seen one so clogged on the OUTSIDE. Darn thing had mud and debris packed into about 70% of the fins. Rust had clogged up most of the inner channels, and killed the water pump as well.

 

Once I had everything out of the way in the front, I was able to get a better look at the a/c compressor. Turns out it's bad after all. Guess I'm saving up and putting in a new system. It seems like it will be accessible from the bottom, so I won't have to disassemble the front end again to get back down there...?

 

Anyway, I'm just super jazzed to be driving a 720 again! I'm gonna show this truck what true love is, haha (no fram for my baby)

[datzenmike]

Rust in the rad means the previous owner(s) didn't care to keep anti-freeze coolant topped up. It prevents this and prolongs the cooling system's life.

[IvyRacer]

Rust in the rad means the previous owner(s) didn't care to keep anti-freeze coolant topped up. It prevents this and prolongs the cooling system's life.

Yeah, when he told me he was running water in it, I cringed. Hopefully, I caught it in time to prevent more serious damage. I'm guessing I'll need to flush and replace the coolant again in a month or 2. I'm waiting to see how much more rust is in the system by keeping an eye on how dark and cloudy the fluid gets over time.

 

If I'm up to it tomorrow, I'll detail the interior before work. I picked up some age appropriate seat covers. They're the same "saddle blanket" covers I had in my '83. I'll even throw in my "Datsun" rubber floor mats :-)

[JDavLaw]

If you EVER want to sell that push bar, let me know. I need 1.

[IvyRacer]

Failed CA smog twice, and blew the head gasket between 3&4, plus my back and neck started acting up something fierce. Poor girl ended up parked for almost a year!

 

I'm determined now. I had the head resurfaced and tested for leaks at my favorite shop before changing gasket this time. Turns out it was warped. She has all new cooling components, all new timing components...

 

Now I just need to get it all back together and make sure I didn't screw anything up! I had to start over from scratch with the timing, so we might be looking at some trial and error.

[IvyRacer]

I'm so happy with what some tlc, seat covers, and floor mats accomplished.

 

 

I still intend to re-carpet and re-paint inside, but I already feel 100% better about the interior. It doesn't smell like a dusty turd anymore either! And this camper shell is perfect for me. lightweight, load bars, and metal guards over the window screens to protect them from my huge crazy dogs :-)

 

[IvyRacer]

So, I'm shopping for a/c components now. I believe I only need to replace the dryer (and all the o-rings) when I replace the bad compressor.

 

Now i have to decide whether I'm going to try to flush it myself and fill it with the r12 i found online, or take it to have it professionally leak tested, flushed, and filled with the 134a stuff...

[Draker]

r12 can be had by any shop or person that is ASE 609 certified. You can buy a HF pump and leak check it yourself.

[84720FourWheel]

134a is the way to go. Way cheaper than trying to get r12. And way easier to get.

 

My brother is an HVAC guy so he replaced all the o rings, vacuumed out the system, then filled it with 134a. Works just fine with the original components. Blowing 36 degrees out the vents.

 

YMMV though.

[Draker]

Good feedback. I'd argue easier to get though. :)

[84720FourWheel]

You can buy 134a from any auto parts store and Walmart. We had a tank of r12 but we didn't want to waste it if the lines leaked.

[720inOlyWa]

The valve cover has clips for keeping all the plug wires sorted and out of the way. Get them from a wrecking yard. Looks neater and less chance of wire damage up out of the way.

 

Radio/CD player goes here

 

Look for the clock option. It's plug and play into your dash. (you may have to add a fuse to the box)

Ahhh hah! Maybe that’s why my clock isnt working in my 4x4- no fuse! Better check that out, right away.

[IvyRacer]

I put everything back together with a new timing chain kit, water pump, oil pump, distributor/cap/rotor/wires.  I was hoping to solve my overheating problems, AND my timing problems (too far off, even after making dizzy adjustments) in one move.

 

Well, after days of agonizing over precision, it's finally all back together and running.  But, it's running exactly the same!  High, bumpy idle, low oil pressure, and now a rattle?tapping?slapping?  The timing is still way off too :-(.  I made triple sure the timing chain and tensioner were all on right, but the chain may somehow be loose or off.  I didn't touch the hitachi carb, so it may be a factor, and I'm pretty sure there is an exhaust leak somehwere, but I haven't made it around to checking that out yet.

 

Looks like I'm back to square one.  I don't know if I'll ever get this @#$% thing smogged and back on the road in California.  Maybe I should move to a state with more reasonable emission requirements and better water resource management... ;-)

[Rhino13]

Check for vacuum leaks, with the stock carb it's a rats nest of vacuum hoses that get crusty with old age. The carb itself could have a leak or one of your manifolds came loose. On my way home from Canby, my exhaust manifold loosened itself to finger tight... My timing chain also makes a little noise but my tensioner is fine, I've been told it's not a big deal and to just let it be, but that may not be the best option for you if your chain and tensioner are new.

[IvyRacer]

So...

 

Fuse for the ignition coil was MISSING.

 

I had accidently reversed a few vacuum lines, and one went to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Plus, the weird plastic valve that mounts to the head was broken.

 

A bunch of the intake manifold bolts needed to be tightened

 

The elbow going to my pcv was loose

 

And my valve cover had cracked around one of the airbox mounting bolts.

 

Put all that that together with the old gas it was trying to sip of the bottom of the tank, and yeah... ran like crap.

 

I addressed everything I listed, and WOW what a difference. She sounds better than she ever had for me. She still idles rough sometimes, and I suspect the carburetor since i sprayed carb cleaner around the base and it killed the motor.

 

I've also noticed that my battery terminals are corroded and only make contact when you get it juuust right, so maybe it's losing ground intermittently? Electrical is my weakest area -_-.

[84720FourWheel]

Pick up a battery brush and clean it. Loose/corroded terminals can cause a slew of problems.

[IvyRacer]

Pick up a battery brush and clean it. Loose/corroded terminals can cause a slew of problems.

I've cleaned them up as best as I can, but there isn't much left of the positive terminal clamp.  It looks very unique to this truck, and I haven't found a proper plug and play replacement online.  I've never seen the metal burn up like that.  It might have something to do with the pos pick-n-pull battery I'm using to troubleshoot, but I've had trouble getting any battery to connect consistantly since I bought it.

[Rhino13]

Knechts auto parts has a lot of different size battery cables hanging on a wall, take old ones out and bring them with to size up. Make sure your fusible links are in good condition also.

[IvyRacer]

I had an opportunity to pick up '68 Dodge Travco "Family Wagon", soooo I've been a little distracted. I saved up (even)more cash to start attacking 2 of my major vacuume leaks. The brake booster and master cylinder were both leaking, and every symptom seems to hint at a tired carb. I've already tried being cheap by picking up a better-looking booster from a donor truck, but that proved to be a waste of time & money. I'm going to bite the bullet and buy brand new parts while I have the cash.

 

Any recommendations on boosters? I already bought a master cylinder.

 

And I still have to smog this monster, so as tempting as a Weber is, I'm leaning toward an overpriced nos Hitachi.

[IvyRacer]

The heat wave finally let up, so I've been at her again.

 

I was able to clean all the terminals, and tightened them down on a new battery.

 

I also installed a brand new brake master cylinder and brake booster. Some nasty junk came out of the front passenger side when I bled the brakes and the front drivers side is so clogged, I couldn't get anything to flow out right. It's dark now, but I'll take another look at that later.

 

The best part was cold starting it, and it holding a steady idle (yay!). The rpm start dropping when I step hard or pump the brakes, so there's still some work to be done.

[Gradyfest]

Have you cleaned and dielectric greased the grounds? I've solved crazy problems on numerous old vehicles by doing just that, to include my 720. Without a good ground... You can replace stuff, but it will go bad like the other.

 

Great job, keep it alive!

[IvyRacer]

I've fixed my battery connection issue by replacing the battery with an optima (that hopefully won't leak acid everywhere), treating the whole area with baking soda, and cleaning off the corrosion. With the negative terminal tightened firmly on the new battery, I have a worry-free connection! Yay! I'd rather not re-wire the positive side unless I absolutely must.

 

Using starter fluid, I found air leaks at the base of the carb, and around the brand new egr gasket that tightening just didn't seem to fix. So I said f-it, and pulled the carb (that was leaking fuel from the accelerator pump and generally gunky in a few more places). I happened to have the correct rebuild kit from my previous 720 project. With the carb off, I took advantage of the easy access to all the intake and egr bolts and made sure they were all tight. Found out the rear nut on the egr was loose! So solved that air leak.

 

Now, the base gaskets on the carb were still original, and baked all to hell. The kit was missing those gaskets, so I cut my own replacements with the gasket paper from autozone. It wasn't perfect, so I filled some of the gaps with a juuust enough liquid gasket. (Did i mention "f-it"?)

 

I just got it back in the truck, but I'll need to study the vacuum diagrams again to be sure I get all the hoses right. A few are already starting to corrode/crack again, so I may just buy new and replace them at the same time. I have to get to work now, but hopefully tomorrow I'll still feel motivated enough to finish this experiment. Everything in the carb looked pretty good except for a tiny bit of play in the choke assembly, like the mounting shaft for the choke plates had worn through a little :-/. I'll have to get it back together and fire it up to find out!

[IvyRacer]

Oh, and replacing the booster, master cylinder, and the crusty old ass hose that went from the booster valve? to the intake manifold, took care of the weird rpm fluctuations when braking. You should have seen the chunks that came out of the front cylinders when I bled them. Ew.