280zx doner parts for my 510

[Datsweet]

I have access to a 1980 280zx. My 510 has old old rusty ghetto stuff.

 

Can I swap out the entire rear end onto my 69 510. Should I get the drive shaft also. I'm not concerned about offset wheels. I have big fender flares in place.

 

Thanks for your insight

[datzenmike]

The H-180 diff will swap with minor work but the gear ratios may be a little low for your 510.

[Dime Dave]

The obvious "harvest" parts are the front struts/brakes to upgrade your 510's and the 5 speed if manual shift.

 

The brake master cylinder (15/16" bore) should be pulled as well. It has the correct mounting orientation for use in a 510 and will be needed with 280ZX front brakes.

[Nuclear Water Boy]

I have access to a 1980 280zx. My 510 has old old rusty ghetto stuff.

 

Can I swap out the entire rear end onto my 69 510. Should I get the drive shaft also. I'm not concerned about offset wheels. I have big fender flares in place.

 

Thanks for your insight

Personally why would you want to? Go to FutoFab abd pickup some rear toe/camber adjusters, enlarge the exhaust hole, and back to FutoFab for rear disk brakes and wheels and other needed quality suspension pieces. The only way you could go wrong would be putting that ZX rear suspension in.

[datzenmike]

Had to finish at work... besides the shorter strut (with larger wheel bearings), larger calipers, vented rotors and 15/16 master.... the 5 speed has a closer ratio and monster overdrive 5th.

 

The rear disc brakes can be fitted to the 51,0 with mods that is. Not as nice looking as the later '81 and on.  (good for selling or swap)

The zx came with a variety of 14 and 15 inch factory mags that fit a 510. (good for selling or swap)

The alternator is 50 or optional 60 amp but are internally regulated, and 10 years newer than the 510. There is a simple mod to the 510 wiring to convert over and get rid of the external regulator.  (good for selling or swap)

The zx has a six cylinder EI dizzy but for about $30 you can get the reluctor and stator for a 4 cylinder from Nissan and convert it to use on your L16/18/L20B. Get the EI matching coil too.  (good for selling or swap)

Some vinyl ZX seats are nice too and have tilt and lumbar support.  (good for selling or swap)

Clutch and slave will work on your 510, keep as spares.  (good for selling or swap)

If plug wires are new keep them for yours.

The pistons are flattops and will fit an 86mm bore engine. (good for selling or swap)

[KlassicMotion]

Mike's list is pretty extensive, but he did forget to list the Starter.

 

The rear crossmember is similar to the 510, but it's not as wide as the 510's, so it will not work....  I have heard of guys using the rear control arms and rear struts (converted) from a 280zx.  I have not yet compared the 280zx rear control arm to the 510, but I can tell you, they mount to the crossmembers in the same location.  In either case, it's easier to just pull off both control arms and remove the brake parts later, as you will have to remove the axle flange, and pull the spindle from the control arm to get the brake backing plate off.

 

As far as removing parts to make money on:

(All parts need to be in good shape, otherwise no bueno)

 

Any good usable plastic interior parts

A good working clock, especially the adjusting knob

If it's a turbo car, the boost gauge

Hood louvers (later years and Turbo)

Fenders

Headlight buckets

Side markers and turn signals

Tail lamp units

Power window motors and power door lock actuators

Bumper covers

Lower front grill/airdam

Stainless trim

The pedal box for automatic to manual conversion

Also, if you remove all the switches and relays, and put them in a "lot" sale on eBay, you can make some money

Good glass sells, but there is always a risk shipping it, and in the mean time, you have to store it...

[datzenmike]

Was going from memory but for use on a 510 the starter for sure. I had/have somewhere, a zx but currently using a Maxima gear reduction starter on my l20b 710. Snug fit but tons of turning torque.

[Datsweet]

Thanks for the help guys.

 

I pulled the front spindles. Failed at the rears because they wouldn't let me bring in my torch, and I couldn't get the axle bolts off. I didn't think I would need pb blaster.

 

The yard I went to was a total rip off so I won't be buying too much for reselling.

 

Someone said the 80 rear disc aren't that good, which ones would be better.

 

Plus if I use the master cylinder, what booster should I get. My car came with nothing

[Datsweet]

Someone mentioned that the rear dif wouldn't be that good. I'm planning on a turbo ka or sr20. In not sure what gearing dif I should be looking for. I want the car to cruise well in the freeway and acceleration is good too. Is there a happy median. The Trans on the 280zx will only fit ? (L series)?

[datzenmike]

The rear disc fro '82 and '83 just look nicer.


The earlier '79-'81

 

 

As for the rear end only the non turbo automatic got the R-180 and it was a terrible 3.545 ratio. All others got the R-200 with 3.90 which is an ok gear ratio but the R-200 is 70 or 80 pounds!!!! and way over kill for a tiny 510.

[Datsweet]

Thanks for the info

 

Any year non turbo auto 280z dif is the r180 with optimal overall gearing .

[datzenmike]

No. I believe I said....

 

 

As for the rear end only the non turbo automatic got the R-180 and it was a terrible 3.545 ratio. All others got the R-200 with 3.90 which is an ok gear ratio but the R-200 is 70 or 80 pounds!!!! and way over kill for a tiny 510.

This applies to the '80 and up 280zx. I think you said '80.

[Datsweet]

Your right , I read it completely wrong.

 

Do you know what r180 difs had decent gearing for cruising

[Ranman72]

Your right , I read it completely wrong.

 

Do you know what r180 difs had decent gearing for cruising

240/260z all manual trans had 336 gears 

auto had 354 

[datzenmike]

Someone mentioned that the rear dif wouldn't be that good. I'm planning on a turbo ka or sr20. In not sure what gearing dif I should be looking for. I want the car to cruise well in the freeway and acceleration is good too. Is there a happy median. The Trans on the 280zx will only fit ? (L series)?

 

Your 510 will have 3.90 or 3.70 ratio differential in it. Going to a lower number like 3.545 or 3.345 reduces acceleration but will lower highway RPM and slightly improve mileage, but not a lot. Going up in numbers like 4.11, 4.375, and 4.625 increases RPMs in any gear and improves acceleration but not mileage. There's no eat your cake and keep it too when changing a differential... however... you can keep your gearing for quick acceleration and add a transmission with an overdrive 5th gear. It accelerates well but on the highway 5th gear drops the RPM by about 15% for reasonable mileage.

 

If you don't have one or plans for a 5 speed try to keep your differential gearing close to what you have now.

 

If running a turbo you will want the engine revved slightly so the turbo spools normally and quickly. Too low a gear and it will take much longer to bring it in.

 

'82 and up 720 4x4s with Z24 engines (edited) have a 4.11  front H-180 differential in them that is close to the 3.90. Off hand I can't think of what car has the 3.90 or 3.70 ratio but they are out there.

[Datsweet]

I didn't realize that manual transmissions come with over drives.

 

The 80-82 720 front dif is what people want. It bolts right onto the rear end or are you taking out the internals?

[datzenmike]

'80-'October '82 build dates have a 4.375 ratio. 'after October a 4.11 is used.

[q-tip]

The rear control arms, brakes and all will volt directly into a 510, the down side of this is you need shorter rear shocks ( might even need coil overs I don't remember) and it makes the rear track width over an inch wider so you have to run a higher offset rear wheel (at least +30 if I remember correctly) so it has advantages and disadvantages.

[Sealik]

"The 80-82 720 front dif is what people want. It bolts right onto the rear end or are you taking out the internals?" 

...........................................................................................................................................................................................

 

The 720 R180 diff is larger than the stock R160,  so the rear subframe has to be dropped or the companion flange has to be removed for installation.

If the companion flange is removed...preload has to be re-set, which can be a bitch underneath the 510

 

The 80-82 4.38 is a little more work due to the fact that the stubs are not bolted in like the 83+ 4.11 and the R160

 

R160 stubs on left need to be swapped into the 180

 

The shorter R180 dust shields on the R160 stubs

 

4.38 on left....4.11 on right

Take note of the bolt holding the stub in place on the 4.11

[KlassicMotion]

For what it's worth; the Subie WRX (non STI) uses the R160 with factory 245hp. The R160 is stout and less weight than the R180. Subie STI uses the R180. If you plan to do burnouts, then the R180 might be better.

Why I mention this is because newer Subie diff's are very easy to find and usually can be bought with VLSD for $75 per unit (Legacy uses the R160 as well). The down side is they will need stub axle mods to fit in. 3.90, 4.11, 4.44, and a few other ratios are very common to find in Subies. I'm not sure what the SR20 rear diff ratio was (depends on year and 5spd or 6spd), but the S14 KA24DE ratio was 4.09 with the 5spd. I'd suggest using the ratio that would have come with the SR20 that you buy.