LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi! Recently i bought an A14 head to fit my A12 Engne. I bought this A14 Head because i bought an wrong intake (that fits only on A14 Head fix with two studs on top and my A12 fix with on stud on top) to put twin carbs Another doubt that i have is the hole passenger from the engine to the head. According to the picture the hole oil passanger from the engine to the head are in opposite way. On top is the A14 Below is the A12 i must drill a hole and fill the another one? Please advice me or inform me where i can find yhe techcnical information Many thanks Luis Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 ggzilla will know. Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi! I hope Ggzilla clarifify.. my doubts....im expecting.. many thanks King Rat If you please let me me the model of this A14 Head and technical information What is this on the head? A switch? Finaly i think i match the intake mainfold, and the head from A14 Many thanks for the RATSUN MEMBER that i bought the A14 Head and Exhaust Header Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 It's a thermal vacuum valve. (broken) It blocks a vacuum signal until engine warms up then opens and allow vacuum through. Usually to allow EGR only when the engine is warmed up. Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Thank you for your quicly reply... I have to plug it. The another information i will wait for Ggzilla..... Many thanks kIng Rat Luis Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 You don't need to plug it. The A14 head gasket will cover it if it's not used. See what David says first. Perhaps the oil goes up the side of the head bolt? Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Link to oil passage question: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Cylinder_Head_Identification#Oil_passage_in_the_head The bolt for the valve train oil supply has a tapper to it- different from the rest. You will have to drill the A14 cylinder head- follow the link. Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Ok! Many thanks... I will do it.... Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hi! I will make a hole on A14 Head as the same diâmeter as the A2 Head, but how deep? I need to find the canal of oil? If anybody make this? Let me know... Many thanks on advance. Luis Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Nope, don't do that. Yet. You could simply trim the head gasket. Oil comes up out of the block across the top between head and block and into the bolt hole and up into head. You could also use the gasket to mark the block oil hole on the underside of the head and use a dremel to grind a groove between the oil and the bolt hole. Drilling a hole on an angle into the head will work, more risk and the chips need to be fished out. Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hi! Thank you for your reply King Rat First ii will clean better the block and head, rotating valves with emery and put new seals and study the best way with your opinions. I would like to hear the opinion of ggzilla, he must be on vacations.. Anybody who have technical information about it.... please... Luis Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hi! ... rotating valves with emery and put new seals and study the best way with your opinions. You could lap the valves using a valve compound and an electric drill. Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hi! What compound do you use? Which brand? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 The one I have is a small tin with aggressive and mild carborundum abrasives... one in each end of the can. It's probably from the 50s-60s, as who grinds valves now a days??? Auto parts stores should have it. Use a magic marker to darken the seat and valve so the contact ares is clearer to see when abraded. I install the valve with a dab of paste and tighten the valve stem into the chuck of the electric drill. Lift the valve off the seat repeatedly as you spin it. It's not very fast and takes long enough that you won't over grind them. KA24E seat ... and valve After lapping Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 You really, really, do not want to lap valves with a drill. Bits of the compound will rotate around and score either the seat or the valve. Proper lapping is done back-and-forth. Grinding seats with a stone can be done with a drill as long as it's done with a pilot and a floating stone holder. I've done a fair amount of valves in the last few years. Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Hi! I will do the same as it A12 head I will make two holes as i mention on image. One of them i will close. And i think i solve my problem. What do you think? Many thanks Luis Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Hi! Anybody try this? Make two prependicular holes, and cover the outside one i think its only i have to do. The lubrification on head is secured in this way... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Well the holes have to meet, the chips need to be removed, the plug may leak or fall out and it's a lot of work. Instead get a gasket with an oil hole or just mark and drill one. Then with a dremel make a small groove in the soft aluminum head from the oil hole to the head bolt. oil flows up through the gasket and along the groove to the bolt hole. Keep it simple. No chance of leaking easy to do and easy cleanup. Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Do NOT make a groove in your cylinder head- not a good idea. A void in an aluminum head bolted to a cast iron block your giving a place for the head to crack. If it was that simple, why didn't the factory use your suggested method? I think it's not worth the risk, and he can't just walk down the street and pick up another cylinder head. Send it to a machine shop and have done right. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 The head is full of voids much bigger. Water jackets, water holes, head bolt holes , intake and exhaust ports, valve guides, push rod holes,spark plug holes, bolt holes for thermostat and peripherals.. endless places for cracks to begin. Fine, even easier is this... Nope, don't do that. Yet. You could simply trim the head gasket. Oil comes up out of the block across the top between head and block and into the bolt hole and up into head. You could also use the gasket to mark the block oil hole on the underside of the head and use a dremel to grind a groove between the oil and the bolt hole. Drilling a hole on an angle into the head will work, more risk and the chips need to be fished out. Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Yes, vertical holes that end in a void or are through holes. OH well! I am sure you know what best! Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Thank all of you. For 100% i will send it to a machine shop Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Yes, vertical holes that end in a void or are through holes. OH well! I am sure you know what best! I guess I didn't hit POST... If there is some reason for this causing a crack then I'm all ears. Perhaps just trimming the gasket is better, surely its easier. Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Many thanks for your attention Luis Quote Link to comment
LUIS COLCHETE Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Hi! I dicover this engine A12 from a 120 Y on a junk yard and in this situation the A14 Head will fit perfect with any changes... . I will rebuilt them, and i will keep my actual A12 engine in original way.. I remove the head and its on perfect conditions, no rust, cylinders walls are undamaged. First i will dismantle all, clean it and paint it. butI think it will need some segments, gaskets, retainers, and run it. I think i will need change the engine mountings? This engine appear badly but its in in good conditions Quote Link to comment
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